1106607410 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

simple repair, pop the dryer lid, remove the screw for the front of the door. install cable and spring and then reassemble.

The only task that took some time was remembering to take out the screws for the lint port prior to lifting the lid.

Found the switch part on the floor and after I figured out where it came from it was minutes before it took to find the web site and order the part, I then watched the installation video which helped with a few pointers and days later it was installed and fixed for 10 dollars with shipping,AMAZING!!!

My dryer started squeaking and I thought it was the drum rollers, so I bought a set. When I attempted the repair and got as far as removing the dryer drum and I decided to spin the shaft on the motor and that was where the squealing was coming from. I put the rollers on and reassembled the dryer. One day later the motor seized up. Ordered a new motor and installed it with no problems. The nut on the back of the motor ended up being a 20mm wrench. Motor cost me $105.56 and the maintenance kit (ps37308) (2 rollers,4 clips, button clip, new idler pulley and belt) cost $32.08. It cost a total of $137.64 in repairs with no labor costs and I accomplished it in under an hour. Minor handyman skills needed or find a friend who is handy. My dryer is 14 years old and now is running like new again. I used the 50% rule, if a repair exceeds 50% of the cost of a new machine, replace it, if the repair can be done for less than 50% of the cost of a new on, fix it.

I followed the video. So easy..

There are two screws that hold the switch in place. And two wires connected to the switch. The most difficult part of replacement is to place the new switch and hold it in place to reinstall the mounting screws. The space to work in is limited unless you remove the front panel from the dryer, which I opted not to do.

Two Phillips screws, and 2 5/16 bolts and the dryer is open for this repair. Remove the drum and note the placement of the drive belt. Then using a pipe wrench grab the rear plastic fan housing, at the rear of the motor shaft, and turn the front of the motor shaft CLOCKWISE. If the Fan is ceased (as it was in my case) you will need to use locking vice grips (at least 3 or 4 between the fan blades to stop the fan blades from turning on the rear shaft.) while your turning the front of the motor's shaft. If done properly, you should have about 25-30 turns before the motor is free for replacement.
Once this is accomplished, mounting the new motor back into the dryer is a simple matter of reversing your steps. But keep note of the belt placement and the motor wiring placement before starting.

It went well, I followed the instruction video and referred back to it if any questions or difficulty. The instructor on the video was obviously very experienced and duplicating his actions exactly was very helpful, One thing I noticed that wasn't mentioned was that the thread on the wheel / motor is left handed.

The first step was to check the electrical supply to make sure I had power 120 volt. I unplugged the dryer and turned off the gas supply and turned the dryer around so I could have access to the back panel removed panel to access the wiring harness and safety thermostats. All switches and wire checked good with my ohmmeter .I pulled off the front kick panel and checked the electrical schematic and found the door switch was in the circuit to check it I had to lift up the top and pop out the front to access the door switch checked switch and found it defective. Replaced switch vacuumed out dryer and vent reassembled dryer and all worked good.

Ordered a correct part # lint filter from this site, removed old filter & installed the new, very simple fix.

Removed door gasket that was on the door. Replaced with newer gasket (was a tad bit too big, so it slipped off as well.) Added some electrical tape to hold it on. Works like a charm.

Pull out the old lint filter unit; push in the new one.

Opened new package took item out and put it on the slot where the old filter was. Easy as pie. My dryer is 46 years old and works just fine.

First used wet vac to get water out. Unplug electrical cord. Shut off water and unhook lines. Unhook drain tube. Flip over on side. Take belt cover off. two screws.
Took photos of parts removing just for re- install. Ordered parts from part select.com. Came in Two days. The dealer was on 12 days I gave up on them. I removed actuator two easy screws and pulled off electrical connection no tool needed. Then removed pump three longer screws Than other part. Make sure to label them in a ziplock baggie. Plus I removed hose clamp with pliers slide Back on hose and pull hose off. Then remove electrical connection on pump. If it makes you feel better label each with masking tape so I know where each connection goes. Then replace pump first with new one. Make sure you push it in hard then the screws. Don’t over tighten. Plastic parts break. Hook back up hose slide clamp back over fitting end with pliers. Hook up wire connector. Next hook up actuator. Two screws wire connector and your done. Put belt guard back on. Socks can get caught under washer get in belt and cause major issue. Then you need to reconnect water lines. Make sure hot goes to hot. Cold to cold. Drain hose hook back up. Plug in power cord. Now the fun part. Run a diagnostic and then calibration. See you tube videos it’s like 3 clicks to left then two to right with selector knob. Write down the exact amount of clicks and steps. It works. Be sure to turn knob 4 times to left to clear it like a combination lock. Don’t let the noises scare you it makes all
Kinds of sounds while calibration goes on.

I followed the instructions on the video and it was simple. The hardest part was vacuuming out 32 years of lint from around the motor and igniter. I was lucky there was never a fire in the dryer.

It had been making noise for a week and I bought the two drum support rollers hoping that was the problem. It wasn't as the dryer started shutting down after a few minutes of running. I opened the top of the dryer and removed the 2 screws holding the face and door on. I removed the face and disconnected the door switch wires and released the drum belt by pushing on the idler pully. I then removed the drum straight out the top. I then put a wrench on the fan on the back of the motor and unscrewed it and then released the two holdown clamps on the motor and removed the motor. I had to make a couple of wiring modifications for the new motor but the instructions and connectors that came with the motor were perfect. I put everything back together and plugged the dryer back in and tried to start it and .... Nothing. I forgot to reconnect the door switch wires. Fixed that and the dryer now runs as good as new and makes no noise at all now (almost anyway). It should be good for another 10 years easy.