11066914692 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

It is odd that this part needed replacement but I am in an area near the Atlantic ocean in a vacation house which is vacant most of the year. The exhaust vent probably brings excessive moisture down to the dryer in the basement. The screen you can see at the inside back of the tumbler (where the heated air enters) rotten out, pieces fell inside and there was danger of something falling in and catching fire. I found no useful source for information (including YouTube) as this part is most easily replaced from the rear of the dryer and the available info was about repairing the heating element, the circuit board, or the exhaust venting pieces which is done from the front.

The bottom line is that the back removes easily. You should:
1. unplug and remove the exhaust shoot
2. remove the top per YouTube or other source
3. take off the back panel over the electrical connections and unscrew the ground; tuck it inside. Don't undo any electrical connections except the ground
4. take off the screws holding the back on (8-9, one is hidden above the exhaust vent) and pull it out of the way; you then have compete access to the "DUCT-AIR" part
4. undo the clip that holds the vent tube (from the heating element) to the part
5. remove the screws that hold the part to the inside back (3?) and push it out of the way
6. remove the clips and remove the old part
7. reassemble in reverse order

I'm over 70 so I took lots of time and breaks but was still done in under two hours. The 2 clips holding the heater element tube to the part were badly rusted and should have been replaced but I made do with the old ones.

Replaced the heating element. Took the front lower panel off, 2 screws one on each end, removed cover on left side over blower 3 screws and removed cover lower right side over heating element 2 screws. Removed 6 wires plugged into heating element cover, turned heater element cover counter clockwise and pulled out. Removed 1 screw holding heating element inside of cover, pulled out heating element. Replaced heating element back in cover putting screw back in to hold it. Put heating element and cover into hole in back of dryer turning clockwise to secure. Then put cover holding heating element over the front of it and secured with 2 screws. Put blower cover back secured with the 3 screws and put the front cover back on securing with 2 screws. dryer is heating better than ever.

had to take front off of Dryer then was able to replace drum roller

Removed two screws and lifted the control console then tilted forward the shell. Removed two screws holding the latch cover and assembly then disconnected two wires. I played with the assembly until I discoved the element was toast. Ordered the part but when I got it I was confused because it had three prongs (two on one side and one on the other) when the burnt one had only one and one and I only had 2 disconnect wires. I thought I had gotten the wrong part but figured it out. Actually putting the assembly together was the easy part, trying to get the outer shell back together was a little tough. Between taking it a part, figuring out what was wrong and ordering and receiving the part was about three weeks. So when putting it all together took awhile but I did it and it works great.

With the help of YouTube, I was able to watch videos of how to disassemble and reassemble the dryer. I watched a video showing where the Thermal fuse and Thermostat was located as well as how to test them with a meter. I watched another video showing how to replace the drum belt, showing step by step instructions. Without YouTube it would have been a whole different story!

Just replaced part

i took off the back of the drier and with a screw driver removed the 2 screws and put the new part on

Just like the video, just followed the video
Thanks,

Removed the back of the dryer about 8 screws. Removed the Thermostat 250 F and replaced with new. Dries a load of clothes in one cycle on medium. Not bad for a 16 dollar part. I am a computer tech and I am used to taking computers a part but I think most people that are in anyway mechanically inclined and can look at a diagram could do this and save yourself a lot of money.

Took the front part of the dryer out, released tension on the idler pulley, took the drum out, and remove the old drum seal. Make sure you remove the old adhesive with sandpaper or wire brush. Put the new adhesive on the seal, not on the drum. Adhesive is very runny. Seal may need to be stretched to fit the drum. Set the seal on the drum, let sit a few minutes. Put everything back together.

After checking the temperature safeties, I replaced the Push-To-Start switch. This did not solve my problem, so I replaced the Timer Switch assembly, which did solve my problem. Both switches are very simple to replace. Unplug the dryer, use your nut driver to remove the 6 screws holding the back control cover. For the Start switch, remove the control knob, remove the 2 screws holding it it. Unplug the wires, turn the switch housing 1/4 turn clockwise, and remove it from the opening. Reverse the process to install the new switch. For the Timer Assembly, just a bit trickier. Remove the knob, remove the 2 screws holding the assembly. Unlike the Start switch, the Timer Assembly has multiple wires. Pull the old timer assembly out, and, one-by-one, move wires from the old Assembly to the new Assembly, being sure to land them on the proper post. Once you have done this, return the Assembly to the mounting hole. A very simple repair. Even though I spent $160 chasing the problem, I still came out cheaper than calling a repairman.

Disconnected Power cord, removed vent pipe, removed back panel, had to slide top cover off to remove additional screw holding back on. Went down to where the Idler Pulley was, removed old piece by depressing on the spring loaded actuator and slid it off the belt and all. Replaced same as removal.

Remove top, front and drum. Top is removed by sliding a putty knife under the front corners and pushing the tabs back. Front is held with screws. Disconnect two electrical connectors. Rollers are easily accessible and changed.

Turned off my circuit breaker first. Removed back panel with a 1/4 nut driver. Replaced the dryer fuse first. Very easy but did not fix the problem. Watched how to videos to narrow down the parts I might need. Purchased the thermal cut off kit. Installed the High limit thermostat first. Tested the dryer, no dice. Finally installed the Thermal cutoff. BAM!! I have heat. Since this is an older dryer I did need to use some WD40 to loosen some of the connections. Total cost of parts including tax and quick delivery was $48.30. Fantastic. My old man told me it was unfixable. He was wrong. I WIN. This site is a great teaching site. Thank you!

Opened access door, noticed main power wire to heating element was partially melted. This was caused by a bad connection to the drying element, loose. Removed heating element assembly. Cut bad section of wire and added new connection. While doing this the thermostats plastic casing cap came off ! Probably due to exessive heat / resistance from the bad connection. This confirmed why there was no heat. Intalled new thermostat and and am now good to go !