1103401772 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

After opening the bottom access panel, I found a lot of lint build up which is very flammable. I took my leaf blower and cleaned it all out. Then I just followed the instructions that came with the part. But be careful as the igniter is fragile. I broke the first one...

Checked fuse with Volmeter, had continuity (acted as a short) not the problem. Disconnected Hot Surface Igniter 2 Position connector to check resistance for a range of 50-300 Ohms of resistance with Voltohm Meter. Meter read open (High Resistance). Removed Igniter by unscrewing 5/16" hex nut on igniter plate assembly and noticed silicon carbide element was cracked in the middle. Ordered a new igniter and noticed assembly was required. Be careful here as igniter element is fragile, also do not touch it with your bare hands. You have to lay down on floor to reinstall igniter assembly and you might want to practice anchoring the defective igniter to gain confidence. Finally with slow movements anchored new igniter assembly and turned on dryer. Watched igniter glow heating gas valve and heating gas flame returned. Dryer fixed for a few hours of study online and cost only $24, plus learned how the gas dryer works.

I had two dryers, one was gas and the other was electric. The electric stopped heating. So I rolled out the gas dryer, but it was setup for natural gas and at this location, I only have propane. So I changed the jets to work with propane, in the process I broke the igniter, so I replaced that and that made the propane one work. Armed with the knowledge from that job, I took the electric dryer apart located the thermostat and replaced that and low and behold I have two working dryers. One for now and one for an emergency. I only have four screws left over!!!! Jim Cooke

I first tried replacing the Radiant Flame Sensor, which was located in a tight space and was very difficult to access. I finally gave up and called a handyman to replace it. That didn't fix my problem. I needed a new igniter. That was easy to replace, but it's fragile and I broke the first one...

Unplug from electricity, turn off gas valve, raise top, remove front. Take drum out of cabinet, unhook gas line from burner assy. unhook electric wires, marking them for re installation. Remove, and replace burner tube. Reinstall burner assy attach wires and gas line. (Check for leaks) Reassemble drum to cabinet, rethread belt thru tensioner, reinstall front, let top back down on unit.

We followed the on-line video which was very helpful but it took longer for us. But the part didn't fix the problem, so we had to go back on line and research it some more only to find that the more common cure for our problem was the gas coils which were even easier to replace and that did fix the problem.

I ended up taking the entire dryer apart when I didn't need to, and it turns out it wasn't the Igniter Kit in the first place but the thermal fuse in the back. Was pretty simple to repair in any case however.

I just followed the instructions provided, after taking a long look as to whether it really applied to our dryer. Just take your time and install the unit as you removed it. We removed the unit by first removing gas line, then two screws on the side and it was out. Put on stopper, followed by switching out the orfice.

Viewed your video on line VERY HELPFUL, problem is the igniter will not stay on long enough to heat up. I just went back on your site and ordered a Thermal Fuse and a Cycling Thermostat for the machine but think it may be to old of a machine to keep trying to repair.

replaoed igniter ,easy to do after watching video

changing orifices, I broke igniter and replaced it also. Otherwise all went well.

Probably could have went faster but wasn't sure on how it would go. Overall not to bad. I wish the manufacturing companies would include the breakdown of the applicances like they use to,that would have helped alot. On the front panel there are 2 clips that you have to pay a lot of attention to. Otherwise you will break them off. . Gaining access to the igniter clip was somewhat of a chore but if you go slow it goes pretty good.

Had no definative directions so kind of had to play it by ear. once I got the top and front off the directions that came with the part were spot on. My biggest problem was I guess I was a little over agressive with the drum and I pulled the tension pulley off the bottom. I had to drill a hole and bolt it back down because I couldnt get the little flanges to bend over enough to hold it. It works now but I havent done a load of clothes yet to make sure it will stay together

First disconnect power to the machine. Remove lower access door locate the igniter connector and disconnect it. Now, remove the screw holding the igniter to the mounting bracket with a 5/16" box wrench, carefully remove the igniter. Replace the old mounting bracket but first start the igniter mounting screw in the new bracket, threading it in all the way and then removing it to make installation easier. Install the new bracket and then the igniter, Be very careful, the igniter is fragile. Holding the igniter securely, install the mounting screw. Reconnect the wire connector replace lower door and plug the machine in. Voila! heat!!

Ordered the part, called a friend that is a LP worker. He came over and in less than 15 mins had the new orface and regulator plunger installed and another 10 mins to install new flex pipe and shut off valve and it works great. It was really easy I watched him do it and could of done it myself if I did not have a friend that could do it.