11097502100 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Georgio from Oradell, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WP338906
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
the glow ignitor would not cycle on
I had an issue where I was not getting any power to my ignitor. After replacing the ignitor with a fresh one, the problem persisted. Next, I went hunting all the fuses and therrmostats for continuity. All seemed fine. So finally I decided to jump the flame sensor which is located on the outside of the flame tube. WHALLA! It ignited the glow plug. So with one 1/4"" nut driver I removed the single bolt from the unit, then I used a pliers to remove the two wires from the old unit. I replaced the sensor with Tue new unit and all was well. It took less than 5 min once I diagnosed the problem.
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- Customer:
- Carol from Golden Valley, MN
- Parts Used:
- 279570
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
My Kenmore dryer door catch was worn out, so the dryer door wouldn't stay closed, and I was unable to dry my laundry.
I identified the correct catch of the three that were included in the package by matching its number to that on the old catch that I had pried out of the door using a flat screwdriver. I centered the new catch over the square hole in the door and pressed it into place. Then I used some needle-nose pliers to twist and remove the metal pin that fits into the catch from the main dryer housing. I replaced that with the new piece included in the kit, gently tapping it into place with a hammer. The repair complete, the door worked perfectly. Thanks for your help and for the speedy delivery of the kit.
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- Customer:
- reinaldo from guttenberg, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WP338906
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
no heat was being produced
Remove back panel n u can see the sensor and easy to replace thanks to the print out i was provided love this website
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- Customer:
- Rob from GAITHERSBURG, MD
- Parts Used:
- WP8066184
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Wrench (Adjustable)
Needed to repair and replace dryer motor pulley and pully
this was very was very easy. But I deviated from the You Tube instructions. One to release the motor pulley. I needed to use 2 adjustable wrenches for a longer lever. I needed to use a hammer to help release pulley. Second to remove the dryer cable I needed to use a small screw driver to aid in the release. ---- the part from the company was a perfect fit.
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- Customer:
- Ken from LOMBARD, IL
- Parts Used:
- 661570
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Broken Belt
Started at the top by laying back the control panel, then I removed the top panel, then the front panel, next the drum and the broken belt. before I put it back together in reverse order, I vacuumed the inside of the dryer and the exhaust vent
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- Customer:
- Ken from Bixby, OK
- Parts Used:
- 279311
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
No Heat
Thermal fuse was blown so I replaced it. Still no heat. Hi-Limit thermostat and Cycling Thermo. had continuity as did flame sensor. Igniter tested 66ohms. I placed a wire jumper across the Hi-Limit and the igniter glowed, solenoids opened and gas came on. I orderd the Hi-Limit and since both "overheating" limiters were defective I decided to order the cycling thermo just in case. The Hi-Limit was received in 2 days but the Cycling Thermo was backordered. In the meantime my wife got antsy so I went ahead and installed the Hi-Limit and put her back in service... ...for one load. I wasn't certain if I had fried the "limiters" again but since they had continuity and I could measure continuity all the way to the Igniter I decided that it HAD to be the cause. I ignored the flame sensor since it never came into play without the igniter glowing... The igniter arrived and measured 56ohms. Hmmm... After installing the problem was solved. Word of advice: If the thermal fuse is blown and even if all else in the circuit SEEMS ok, go ahead and order the Fuse, Hi-Limit and Cycling Thermos, and the Igniter. It will take you about 30 minutes to install and you'll reduce your out-of-service time! Good luck!
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The belt you sent was too short
I disassembled the dryer, replaced the pulley (which was noisy), and the belt.reassembled, only to find out that the drum would not turn freely. checked all my procedures and kept having the same problem. Finally after 3 frustrating hours, I took the back off and noticed that idler arm was tight against the motor shaft, because the too short belt didn't allow for the clearance needed. Had too take everything apart ,another hour, went and found one at our local repair shop, reinstalled everything , after another two hours runs fine. would appreciate a refund. And please check your part numbers in the future. Would hate to have someone else go through what i experienced.
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Drive pulley broke. Looked like clip holding it on broke and pulley was running crooked.Belt was squealing some a couple of weeks before it broke.
Removed top and back covers. Placed new pulley and retaining clip in place. I had to remove a couple of drum supports to put belt on. Probably didn't have to remove top.
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- Customer:
- Frank from Smyrna, TN
- Parts Used:
- 279827
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
Start windings burnt out on original motor (dryer would not start)
The repair was fairly straight-forward. I removed the front of the dryer, lifted the top off, and then released the tension off the belt dy depressing the pulley arm. Once the belt was off, the drum came right out and then it was on to unhooking the wiring from the old motor. Very simple up till this point. The snag came when I went to unthread the impeller fan off of the old motor shaft. It was permanently sealed onto the shaft so I had to cut the old shaft into using a reciprocating saw was a metal-cutting blade. Once this was done the new motor installed easily exactly like the old one was mounted. I had to also purchase a new fan due to the fact that I was unable to remove the cut shaft from the old fan. All parts worked great and the dryer assembled back together easily. Works like a new dryer now.
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- Customer:
- Douglas from Fernley, NV
- Parts Used:
- WP338906
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Socket set
Dryer got hot then heat would shut off
Sensor is in the front lower left. Gas off, electicity off. Removed two screws for the filter, pry/lifted the top up and taped it too the overhead cabinet, removed two screws inside top of front panel, lifted pandel with door closed staight off. Two screws to remove the flame sensor braket. unplug the old sensor install the new one and reverse everything. With others suggestions I purchased temperature switches etc. but the radiant flame sensor was the problem. I now have some spare switches for future. Excellent company and very quick service. Oh, Sears wanted 200.00 just for the service call, I live rural.
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- Customer:
- Sarah from Merrimac, MA
- Parts Used:
- 279311
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
not heat
For the Ignitor - As involved as taking the dryer completely apart sounded, it was super easy. 1-take out the lint trap and remove the two screws there. 2-Pop open the top with a screw driver and swing the top completely over/back. 3- remove the two screws holding in the front panel and remove the panel. 4- loosen the belt by pushing on the tension roller under the drum on the right and remove the drum (its super light) use the belt as a handle. 5- remove the screw holding in the ignitor and replace it with the new one. Be careful to not touch the new ignitor. Then go backwards putting it back together.
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- Customer:
- Dennis from PALM BCH GDNS, FL
- Parts Used:
- WP697813
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Lint filter seal worn out
The part wasn’t for my machine. Unfortunaly I was not able to repair it. I was sent stripe of foam with an adhesive strip on the back. I needed a felt strip.
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- Customer:
- Robert from HAGERSTOWN, MD
- Parts Used:
- 279640
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Noisy
Disconnect power supply, remove power cord from dryer, remove dryer vent tube from dryer, remove 2 Philips screws from power connection on dryer, remove nuts from back of dryer, remove back of dryer. Locate idler pulley at bottom of unit at the rear of the motor, pull pulley back to loosen belt and remove from pulley, remove pulley retainer clip, remove pulley and rear washer from shaft and inspect shaft for wear or rust. replace washer and pulley (no specific direction to replace them, washer first then pulley). Reverse above procedure to reassemble. This is for a front load dryer, a top load dryer is different.
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- Customer:
- anthony from Port Arthur, TX
- Parts Used:
- 279311
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
No heat, would not light because igniter burnt out
Unplug dryer. Remove the front bottom panel of dryer 2 screws, then unplug wire connector to the old igniter then unscrew one screw holding ignitor then wiggle out. Open new igniter wiggle back in place insert screw tighten, (getting this screw back in is a little hard) replug wire connector to new igniter replace front panel with two screws. Plug in dryer and there you go drying clothes again. Wife all happy again.
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- Customer:
- Douglas from Tiburon, CA
- Parts Used:
- 349241T
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
incessantly annoyingly squeaky dryer
Take out 2 philips screws in lint trap holder on top. Use flat screwdriver to pry up front left and right of dryer top near outside edges and tilt up out of the way. Remove 2 push-on AC connectors on door switch and remove plastic clip holding wires to dryer's front top metal edge. Remove (2) 5/16" sheet metal screw on inside top left and right edges to free up front panel. Lift front panel about an inch and it'll then pull off. It helps to have a second person to help hold or remove the drum at this point. It took 3 times for me to guess right on the squeak. First time I replaced the belt, second time I replaced these rollers, third and final time I replaced the idler pulley, the shaft of which had worn completely off so clearly i can't figure out how we didn't see (or hear) it the first two times! Dri-Slide lube helped stop the squeaking the first two times, but it always returned until this time, now I have a thoroughly rebuilt dryer for the next generation! (PS vacuum out the bottom of the dryer while it's open to remove both lint and greasy roller shavings - do this FIRST and you'll have cleaner hands & clothes!)
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