11086650100 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

I received the part I ordered immediately and the included instructions made installation a snap. Thank you for your help. I would not hesitate to order from your company again.

simple repair, pop the dryer lid, remove the screw for the front of the door. install cable and spring and then reassemble.

The only task that took some time was remembering to take out the screws for the lint port prior to lifting the lid.

Undid the back, remove wires going to element, unscrew lint trap, pop the top and undid the nut-screw holding the element housing. pulled out the bad element and did everything in reverse with the new element... unplug it first though because I left that step out.

I simply removed the rear panal of the dryer. Removed the two wires from the fuse at the rear of the dryer. Attached an OEM meter across the two fuse connections and had no continuity. Ordered a new fuse and recieved it in 2.5 days.Replaced the fuse,reconnected the wires and replaced the rear panal. Started dryer and it now blows hot air and runs like new. I can't say enough about PartSelect. Great diagnosis using their website, the delivery was fast and I recieved the correct part at a good price. Very satisfied, Thanks PartSelect. Fred F

Followed the instructions, removed the back cover, disconnected the top, disconnected the element and removed the element holder, then the element. Reversed procedure to install the new part.

After un-plugging the frig and allowing it to defrost, we emptied the frig and gave it a thorough cleaning inside and outside. I then removed the shelving in the freezer and the face plate at the back of the machine. One of the defrost heater coils had burned out and there was a loss of continuity which was keeping the frig from defrosting properly. The old heater snapped out easily. I went to this website and ordered a new defrost heater assembly which arrived practically overnight. It was identical to the old one and installed as quickly and easily as the original had come out. I put the faceplate back on, put the shelving back in, placed a thermometer inside the fresh food section, plugged it in and waited until I heard ice cubes drop. The fresh food section was holding at 41 degrees F which is optimum. The refrigerator has been working smoothly every since! Easy job!

I did what any novice would have done. I took the entire thing apart to get to the gas jet. I did not know about the thermal fuse until I got to the schematic behind the timer and controls. I was a tech back in the 70's and 80's and only worked on electric dryers. Back then I would remove the heater core and twist the coils together to save money. So I had no idea how a gas dryer heating unit worked. So now any one that reads this. You do not have to take the dryer completely apart, I did that for all of you. Just replace the thermal fuse on the back of the unit by unplugging that wires and removing the screws! It looks like a long white piece of plastic with 2 wires to it. You will find this under the full metal shield on the back of the unit. This should be about a 1 hour repair at the most!

removed 5 screws holding back cover on. Oh yeah very important (that is if you'd like to be around to help your buddy do this) unplug the unit 1st!
Accessed the heat coil. Difficult to remove the element so opened top of dryer to access the screw that was on top of the housing was then able to easily remove the element and replace with the new one. Actually, removing the top of the drier was a very good thing because it gave me a chance to throughly clean out any lint. but number one reason was I found the drier door cutoff switch wire had come loose from its clip and was laying on top of the drum and slowly grinding the insulation off the wire! had not shorted yet but would have failed soon.
anyway... I got cheap when buying the parts and didn't buy the real part that was bad... (lesson learned) anyway found the parts I did replace were not bad. So back to the net again to order the last thermal limit switch and fuse. received the parts 3 days later installed them. Now life is good! Well at least dry warm shirts and socks! Decide to keep the extra parts just in case I need them down the line.
Actually even with the problems encountered "I" still repaired the drier myself saving big bucks and enjoyed the small but fulfilling challenge!
Excellent experience working through partselect.com

Removed rear panel, removed 3 screws and old element and installed new element. To install new element I only needed one screw and spliced in the two wires that were provided with the element. This repair was simple and now the dryer works great.

My dryer started squeaking and I thought it was the drum rollers, so I bought a set. When I attempted the repair and got as far as removing the dryer drum and I decided to spin the shaft on the motor and that was where the squealing was coming from. I put the rollers on and reassembled the dryer. One day later the motor seized up. Ordered a new motor and installed it with no problems. The nut on the back of the motor ended up being a 20mm wrench. Motor cost me $105.56 and the maintenance kit (ps37308) (2 rollers,4 clips, button clip, new idler pulley and belt) cost $32.08. It cost a total of $137.64 in repairs with no labor costs and I accomplished it in under an hour. Minor handyman skills needed or find a friend who is handy. My dryer is 14 years old and now is running like new again. I used the 50% rule, if a repair exceeds 50% of the cost of a new machine, replace it, if the repair can be done for less than 50% of the cost of a new on, fix it.

I watched the video or I would have likley just called a repair man. It took longer to clean behind the dryer than to install the new thermal fuse. After taking the back off the dryer is was as simple as changing a fuse. Dryer works like new for about $20 bucks and we avoided the hasle of getting a repair man, especially since we live in the country. Thanks for having a web site that is so easy to use and full of good information.

My wife did the repair

The dryer would dry the clothes fine and run through heat cycles and cool down. The timer would also run down, it just would stop even thought the heat stopped. To repair, I took the back off the timer portion of the dryer. At first I panicked. I did not see any part that looked like the new one I just ordered. I searched the internet and found that the original part looked like a black plastic loop with a black and orange wire connected to it. The part I got was the new design. Then I couldn't figure out if it mattered which end I hooked to the black wire. Another internet search showed it doesn't matter which way current flows through a resistor, so it didn't matter. Hooking in the new part was very easy. The time it took to get the information to identify the part, and determine if it matter which end to hook up to which wire took the longest. I would recommend PartSelect put a picture of the old style right beside the picture of the new style. Also would like them to make clear it doesn't matter which direction the Timer Power Resistor went in.

Went on-line Chat and described my problem to a very professional and patient representative who requested the necessary information needed to replace my filter. Note: Due to the age of the my dryer, Sears no longer had a replacement. I'm thankful that this site was able to accomodate my need.
The repair, or should I say replacement, was as simple as pulling out the old filter and replacing it with new. Only tools, my two hands.

Removed door gasket that was on the door. Replaced with newer gasket (was a tad bit too big, so it slipped off as well.) Added some electrical tape to hold it on. Works like a charm.