11085872400 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Remove top, front and drum. Top is removed by sliding a putty knife under the front corners and pushing the tabs back. Front is held with screws. Disconnect two electrical connectors. Rollers are easily accessible and changed.

I did what any novice would have done. I took the entire thing apart to get to the gas jet. I did not know about the thermal fuse until I got to the schematic behind the timer and controls. I was a tech back in the 70's and 80's and only worked on electric dryers. Back then I would remove the heater core and twist the coils together to save money. So I had no idea how a gas dryer heating unit worked. So now any one that reads this. You do not have to take the dryer completely apart, I did that for all of you. Just replace the thermal fuse on the back of the unit by unplugging that wires and removing the screws! It looks like a long white piece of plastic with 2 wires to it. You will find this under the full metal shield on the back of the unit. This should be about a 1 hour repair at the most!

I Googled a description of the repair, found a forum entry from another 'do-it-yourselfer'. They had posted instructions on which 8 screws needed to be removed. I followed the instructions and within 15 minutes, I was done.

I simply removed the rear panal of the dryer. Removed the two wires from the fuse at the rear of the dryer. Attached an OEM meter across the two fuse connections and had no continuity. Ordered a new fuse and recieved it in 2.5 days.Replaced the fuse,reconnected the wires and replaced the rear panal. Started dryer and it now blows hot air and runs like new. I can't say enough about PartSelect. Great diagnosis using their website, the delivery was fast and I recieved the correct part at a good price. Very satisfied, Thanks PartSelect. Fred F

Watched Video - very helpful in repair Maytag Dryer working like new now Thanks for your guidance in my repair

I removed the bottom access panel, with 2 hands i reached in behind the blower, i released the belt, i used a screwdriver to pop the retainer from the pully spindle, i removed and replaced the pully, i snapped the retainer back on and replaced the belt. I made sure the belt was on track and all was good. I put the bottom panel back on, it took all of 5 minutes. The hardest part was the retainer clip faces the rear of the dryer so you have to feel it. Also , the space is tight, use a smaller flathead screwdriver to get behind the clip, it will pop right off.

Note that the problem was with the pedestal, not the washing machine. In the process of attaching the two units together, the drawer in the pedestal is removed. When I tipped the assembly up, the slide slid out and locked horns with an object, bending the slide. The slide is an easy replacement. Just one screw holds it in place. A slot in the slide mates with a tab to hold the back side of the slide in place.

take off front bottom panel. use ohm tester on the heater coil element, (It had broken in back) remove screw holding it in place and the two red wires leading to the element. Pull out and replace. reinstall in reverse. Done

Watch the video on the website. The instructions are spot-on. Thanks!

Unplug unit first.
Took the front cover off the front of dryer below the door.

Removed the dryer door, unscrewed lint vent.

Removed the front panel, removed the tub and removed the old seal. Tub seal area was scraped, sanded and wiped with acetone to ensure a clean. Bonding surface. Applied adhesive with and acid brush to get a consistent adhesive layer without getting too much in any one place. Seal was a bit smaller than the tub circumference so it had to be stretch to fit. While the adhesive was curing , I took the time to clean the contact surfaces and vacuum the lint from inside the cabinet. Reinstalled the tub, drive belt and front panel.

Took the top off and then front off and drum out . Replaced Drum roller and shaft support bolts.

remove top, front, drum, fan fan housing, replace motor

very easy