1106708610 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Used the dryer illustrated parts list to find the heater. Used a multi-meter to determine that the heater had no resistance, meaning it was open and could not heat. Removed the heating element held to the dryer with one hex screw with a wrench. Purchased a replacement heating element and received it within 2 days. Screwed the new heating element with a hex wrench again. The dryer works like new now.

This was rather easy to fix. I had never opened the dryer before but had a serviceman come out so I knew that you can pop the top of the dryer off by putting a flat edge screwdriver in between the top and bottom and popping up. You must remove the screws from the lint dryer before so the top comes off. The piece to replace had two screws and that was it. To get a repairmen from Sxxrs where we purchased it 15 years ago they charge a flat fee of $75 just to come out. That does not include the repair just a fee to come and tell you how much more it would cost to fix it. I ordered the part for less than $5 and $12 more for 2-3 day delivery! What a bargin! I was back drying clothes 15 minutes after the part arrived! Very happy that the part is still being made!

Replaced roller. Very simple. Dryer is the easiest appliance to repair. Only a few parts keep a dryer working

Disconnect dryer.
Unscrew the two screws that hold the door actuator assemby.
replace broken spring.
Screw the the two screws back.

Dryer was taking long time to dry cloths, electric bill seemed higer than usual, used 1/4" nutdriver, removed rear panel, opened top cover w/screw driver to pry with, marked all wires with blk tape to id them later. Did thorugh inspect/clean of link section to propeller baleds 1 hr, continuity check of heater, switches etc found heater lower than spec, ordered heater, continued to clean all sections & vents, installed new vent hose, pulled about 2lbs of sand, dust, lint from all sections, heater works great now, clothes dry quick. New heater core came in mail and installed it. The newer elecment was 5200 watts, orig was 5400 watts, ohms was same, size etc. The unit works like a charm. Notes:Did not check or lubricat the drum. Drum is very squeaky, belt in good shape. Dryer is 20yrs old. Will replace when I can afford it! for now I can live with some sqeaks, anyway as I am getting older my hearing is going away, Good luck.

Before beginning, unplugged dryer. 1) Used putty knife at each front corner of top to pop lid loose from clips. 2) Removed hex screws at back of control panel to allow lid to tip open. 3) With lid opened, removed hex screw from inside-top of each side to allow front to pull open from side panels and access door switch easily. 4) Removed clip that holds retaining wires from top. 5) Pulled wire from each side of door switch. 6) Removed switch assembly using Phillips screwdriver to remove two screws mounting switch at top of door opening. 7) Removed broken actuator spring and replaced. 8) Reversed process to reassemble.

I diagnosed the problem, as a broken arm on the actuator for the door shut switch. I jumped the switch, and dryer worked. I went to this site, found the part I needed, ordered it/received it quickly, and proceeded to do the repair. The video that THIS particular part goes for, isn't' like MY dryer. My dryer hinges in the rear. You just remove the 2 screws on either side of the control panel, (right and left), pull forward on the panel, to ease its attachment, let it lie. Then with a small plastic pry tool, pop the 2 attaching points in the front of the dryer. Front end lifts up, like a hood on a car. My roommate held hood up, while I R&R'd the switch actuator. Went back together, in reverse of my taking apart. Worked great. Thanks a bunch.

After checking out the website and the videos posted to YouTube, I decided that I should take a chance and try and repair the problem myself. I am not in any way mechanical, and for me personally, this was a huge job. The instructions and the video were so clear that it made the job easy. Taking out the dryer drum was a concern, and although not heavy, I used a friend to hold it in place when I was putting it back together. My only small issue was when I was removing the rollers. I had some difficulty taking off the plastic locking washers but other than that, it was a breeze. The videos posted are great and very easy to follow. While doing the above job, I also replaced the dryer belt and heating element, both of which I followed instructions as per video. The dryer is running very smooth, and is the quietest it has been for many years. Very happy with all aspects of service advice and videos.

I reviewed several videos on parts sites and YouTube. There is more than enough advice online showing step-by-step instructions. The only difficulty came with the rear nut holding the motor shaft to the blower fan. I used a crescent wrench with a long pipe over it for added torque. The two spring clips holding the motor in place can be removed and installed with the help of a nutdriver pushing the clip down, . The dryer was new enough so the motor needed no switch changes. The new motor is running fine.

Removed what was left of the old hinges, installed the new ones. Also added a length of jack chain (same size chain that’s on a toilet flapper) to one side to support the door while open. Tried to chain up both sides but it wouldn’t let the door completely close and depress the switch. Cables are no longer supplied by any parts dealers.

Attributed excessive noise to age of dryer, upon closer inspection, a dish towel had become caught at rear of drum because the drum support rollers were damaged causing the drum to create a space in the rear of the drum. This was large enough for the dish towel to be caught. Originally I thought that the thermal fuse had blown the circuit-which should occur in an overheating situation-however the loose drum had worn through the electrical wire leading to the door switch because it was not properly seated on the rear drum rollers. the wire was repaired with a wire nut, rear drum rollers were installed and it is working again. thank you for the extremely fast shipping

removed two screws from lint screen raised top removed two nut screw from front disconnected lid wire lifted front up and off removed drum cleaned all dust out replaced pulley unit with new one (with a wheel) replaced tub held it up with a bungey cord put on new belt and reassembled unit tested out back in business

just replaced parys

Pulled out the old element (by removing the two screws that hold it in place) About a couple of inches and disconnected the two wires. I then inserted the new element and screwed it in place and connected the wires. Just took two of us to fix the problem...one to tilt the dryer forward and the other to put in the element.
I am so happy I didn't have to go out and purchase a new dryer........new ones are way too expensive!

I take the screws out of the door, I removed the catch from behind inside the dryer door, I slid the new catch in the door and snapped it in place. After getting a new catch in the door I put the door back together and put the screws in. Easy repair