11096573020 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

I removed the hex head screws from the back of the dryer and removed the back panel, after unplugging the dryer. I tested the various electrical components until I found that the upper limit temp fuse had gone out. Came to partselect.com and found the kit I needed and ordered it. When it came in, I replaced the upper temp limit fuse, and the other parts that came with the kit. I also, since the back was open, used the opportunity to vacuum out the blower fan and as much of the lint as I could get to. Dryer works great now!

Take out 2 philips screws in lint trap holder on top. Use flat screwdriver to pry up front left and right of dryer top near outside edges and tilt up out of the way. Remove 2 push-on AC connectors on door switch and remove plastic clip holding wires to dryer's front top metal edge. Remove (2) 5/16" sheet metal screw on inside top left and right edges to free up front panel. Lift front panel about an inch and it'll then pull off. It helps to have a second person to help hold or remove the drum at this point. It took 3 times for me to guess right on the squeak. First time I replaced the belt, second time I replaced these rollers, third and final time I replaced the idler pulley, the shaft of which had worn completely off so clearly i can't figure out how we didn't see (or hear) it the first two times! Dri-Slide lube helped stop the squeaking the first two times, but it always returned until this time, now I have a thoroughly rebuilt dryer for the next generation! (PS vacuum out the bottom of the dryer while it's open to remove both lint and greasy roller shavings - do this FIRST and you'll have cleaner hands & clothes!)

Actually, I was the handy man. First I removed the front panel. Then I used 3 - 2x4s to hold up the drum. Then I slipped the belt around the center of the drum ,motor,and around the pulley at the bottom of the dryer. That was it, and then I put it back together. My wife was amazed and proud that I did it without calling for help! No Problem!

Removed the top and front panel, removed the dryer drum. Removed the worn out rear drum seal. I scraped and sanded the old glue residue from the rear of the drum. I used "0000" steel wool to clean the "brown seal residue" from the rear panel where the new seal on the drum would rub/seal against the rear panel. I used spring clamps to hold the seal in place prior to appling the glue. The glue was applied to the drum/seal and allowed to dry 30-45 min. I replaced the front drum seal (some of the other discussions in your forum had good hints on replacing this seal, better than the printed instructions), also replaced the belt and applied a light amout of lubrication (3 in 1 oil) to the idler pulley and the drum rollers. The dryer runs smoothly and quietly and most importantly no more brown streaks on clean clothes.

The repair was really easy and I loved the DIY videos they were great, not many tools needed to do these repairs that was great. The only thing is this didn't solve my issue.

I noticed my dryer was heating, but not tumbling. I"m a 53 year old single female, and my dryer I bought used 3 years ago. I had no clue what the problem was. I texted my brother and said, "it heats but doesn't tumble - is it shot?" He texted back "probably the drive belt - pop the top and see." So I popped the top, and sure enough, the belt was broken. So I googled "diy + dryer + drive belt" and watched a You Tube video. I then drove all over town looking for a belt, and the only place that carried it had closed at noon (saturday). So I googled " appliance parts + dryer and came to this site, ordered the part and it was delivered in two days.
I borrowed a nut driver from my brother, removed the front of the dryer, used a plastic cup to prop up the drum. I put the belt on the drum, being sure to place the ribbed side down, looped through the pulley and onto the motor, removed the cup, put the front back on, dropped the top, replaced the lint trap and the two screws holding that in place, turned the dryer on and voila! All done.

remove the front panel, belt [notice the way the belt is fasten] remove the tub, support bracket to the drum roller, and slide the new drum roller on and place the tre ring in the slot. then re-install everything in reverse

Two screws hold the top control panel in place. Once removed the panel could be tipped forward. The Push to Start switch had 2 wires which were removed and swapped to the new starter switch. The old one rotated 90 degrees to remove and the new one installed. Panel was resecured to the top of the dryer and tested. Worked first time. Finding the part on the website, ordering it, receiving it quickly and the install couldn't have been easier or more pleasant or efficient.

First only replaced the high temp cut off switch which allowed the element to heat. However, after one heat cycle the switch would not reset. Then changed the thermostat (included in the kit). After tapping the cut off switch lightly to manually reset it, the dryer ran perfectly. Moral of the story: always change all parts included with a repair kit!

I received the part I ordered immediately and the included instructions made installation a snap. Thank you for your help. I would not hesitate to order from your company again.

Removed the back of the dryer about 8 screws. Removed the Thermostat 250 F and replaced with new. Dries a load of clothes in one cycle on medium. Not bad for a 16 dollar part. I am a computer tech and I am used to taking computers a part but I think most people that are in anyway mechanically inclined and can look at a diagram could do this and save yourself a lot of money.

Followed the video instructions that I was directed to through this site. The time it took me includes the time I used to vacuum out the back of the dryer and remove lint build up. The repair was very easy since the video provides all the information you need in an easy to follow format. I used my cell phone and paused when I needed to. Great site, great access to parts and great service. My parts were delivered in 2 days!

My dryer started squeaking and I thought it was the drum rollers, so I bought a set. When I attempted the repair and got as far as removing the dryer drum and I decided to spin the shaft on the motor and that was where the squealing was coming from. I put the rollers on and reassembled the dryer. One day later the motor seized up. Ordered a new motor and installed it with no problems. The nut on the back of the motor ended up being a 20mm wrench. Motor cost me $105.56 and the maintenance kit (ps37308) (2 rollers,4 clips, button clip, new idler pulley and belt) cost $32.08. It cost a total of $137.64 in repairs with no labor costs and I accomplished it in under an hour. Minor handyman skills needed or find a friend who is handy. My dryer is 14 years old and now is running like new again. I used the 50% rule, if a repair exceeds 50% of the cost of a new machine, replace it, if the repair can be done for less than 50% of the cost of a new on, fix it.

As the instructions say: first remove the drum. In the case of my dryer the drum is supported by two rollers on the back panel and the opening in the front panel. Remove the front panel and the drum almost falls out.

Replacing the seal was easy . Just tear out the old seal, lightly sand the rear lip, stretch the new seal over it, being sure the stitching is oriented properly, and then squeeze adhesive from the supplied tube between the seal and the drum lip.

In putting the dryer back together I couldn't figure out how to thread the belt. I suggest that people attempting this repair take digital pictures of the inside of the appliance before disassembling it.

A very good experience and I prolonged the life of the dryer a good ten more years.

I did what any novice would have done. I took the entire thing apart to get to the gas jet. I did not know about the thermal fuse until I got to the schematic behind the timer and controls. I was a tech back in the 70's and 80's and only worked on electric dryers. Back then I would remove the heater core and twist the coils together to save money. So I had no idea how a gas dryer heating unit worked. So now any one that reads this. You do not have to take the dryer completely apart, I did that for all of you. Just replace the thermal fuse on the back of the unit by unplugging that wires and removing the screws! It looks like a long white piece of plastic with 2 wires to it. You will find this under the full metal shield on the back of the unit. This should be about a 1 hour repair at the most!