11069101990 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Betty from Erie, PA
- Parts Used:
- 279457
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
couldn't get the wire connection anywhere after we bought the heating element.
we received the two heating element wires in 3 days and connected the heating element with no problem works great.
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- Customer:
- brenda from Newman Lake, WA
- Parts Used:
- WP3392519
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
My dryer conked. Would not turn on, but before that happened it was taking way too long to dry the clothes and the dryer would stop in the middle of a cycle.
Went on this website and found a story that was similar. I ordered the parts which arrived quickly and I replaced the Thermal Fuse and heating element and it was fixed! The whole repair cost me $24.88! Way cheaper than calling a repair man.
Heater thing was part # 3387134
and the fuse was 3392519
Heater thing was part # 3387134
and the fuse was 3392519
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broken rib belt
Followed instructions from video, just removed lint collector, dryer top and front panel, removed broken belt and old idler pulley. Vacuumed and cleaned up inside dryer.installed new pulley and rib belt according to printed instructions,installed new dryer duct and new clamps. Saved myself huge service call or having to buy new dryer.Will be checking with this site on any future repairs instead of calling a repair service. Your video made it real easy to repair.and I am 77 years old.. Bob
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- Customer:
- Rob from GAITHERSBURG, MD
- Parts Used:
- WP8066184
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Wrench (Adjustable)
Needed to repair and replace dryer motor pulley and pully
this was very was very easy. But I deviated from the You Tube instructions. One to release the motor pulley. I needed to use 2 adjustable wrenches for a longer lever. I needed to use a hammer to help release pulley. Second to remove the dryer cable I needed to use a small screw driver to aid in the release. ---- the part from the company was a perfect fit.
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- Customer:
- John from Boynton Beach, FL
- Parts Used:
- 279838
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
No heat
Unplug Dryer.
Disconnect dryer vent line from rear of machine.
Removed 8 screws holding back cover on.
Removed back cover.
Disconnect 2 quick connect wires from dryer heating element tube on right side of the machine.
Remove 2 screws holding element cover in place.
Remove cover and element.
Remove thermostat from unit and connect to new unit.
Re install parts in reverse order of above.
Disconnect dryer vent line from rear of machine.
Removed 8 screws holding back cover on.
Removed back cover.
Disconnect 2 quick connect wires from dryer heating element tube on right side of the machine.
Remove 2 screws holding element cover in place.
Remove cover and element.
Remove thermostat from unit and connect to new unit.
Re install parts in reverse order of above.
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damp clothes after drying....
repair was fairly cut and dry...if you have any handyman experience....the hard part was partselect web page...starts out easy to locate part if you have the correct model number....however after that it can be confusing as to what you are looking for part wise and if you have located the correct part....diagrams are helpful if you could see them and/or understand them or what you are looking for....as a novice can be fustrateing....even after calling partselect for help/explaination....other wise it went well for a repair and hopeful will get another 10yrs out of this dryer.....
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- Customer:
- Frank from Smyrna, TN
- Parts Used:
- 279827
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
Start windings burnt out on original motor (dryer would not start)
The repair was fairly straight-forward. I removed the front of the dryer, lifted the top off, and then released the tension off the belt dy depressing the pulley arm. Once the belt was off, the drum came right out and then it was on to unhooking the wiring from the old motor. Very simple up till this point. The snag came when I went to unthread the impeller fan off of the old motor shaft. It was permanently sealed onto the shaft so I had to cut the old shaft into using a reciprocating saw was a metal-cutting blade. Once this was done the new motor installed easily exactly like the old one was mounted. I had to also purchase a new fan due to the fact that I was unable to remove the cut shaft from the old fan. All parts worked great and the dryer assembled back together easily. Works like a new dryer now.
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Dryer was not heating
We pulled the back off the dryer and we weren't sure where the problem was exactly. So we pulled off the heating element and the thermostat. The heating element seemed to be burnt out, so we ordered that and the thermostat. We got the parts very quickly, so we put them in and found that the dryer still didn't heat. There was another thermostat (trip thermostat) that we decided to order and try...bingo...that was it. Now it works like a charm.
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- Customer:
- Rebecca from Scarsdale, NY
- Parts Used:
- WP3392519
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Dryer would not start.
Unplug dryer from mains. Remove the back of the dryer. Thermal fuse is located on the left hand side near the bottom as you face the back of the dryer. Remove fuse and connect new fuse. Never repaired an appliance before and this was so easy!
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- Customer:
- Joseph from Austin, TX
- Parts Used:
- 279457
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Dryer stopped heating
(Always unplug dryer before making any repairs) I opened the dryer and checked the heating element. Making sure that the connection was good and nothing was damaged, I determined the problem was overheated wires. They melted and lots connection. I replaced them with the heating element wire connection kit. Easy to install and simple to get right. I cleaned the dryer again with a vaccum cleaner, removing all the lint, and checked the vents, making sure they were clear...I turned the breaker on (it was tripped when the dryer overheated)and everything worked great.
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Dryer was getting too hot, metallic burning smell
To replace the thermostat and heating element, I followed the video from PartSelect.
Before buying the parts, I had already taken my machine apart to clean it and check for lint build up, but there was only a bit of dust, no major blockages. Because the burning smell was metallic, I just had my fingers crossed that replacing the heating element and thermostat would do the trick. It worked!
There is an odd ceramic sort of smell in the first 5 minutes of using the new element but that went away and all is working well at this point.
My components looked slightly different from those on the video; I had fewer wires so I just took photos of everything before I started to make sure I put it all back in the correct place.
I had to watch another video on how to easily remove the thermostat, mine was stuck. I just used a flat head screw driver behind it like a lever and gently pried it off.
It took me about 30 minutes total only because I had to watch a couple of extra YouTube videos due to the differences of my machine. I don’t usually do repairs like this one and wanted to be completely sure I was doing it correctly, but the work/repair itself was super easy.
The lint trap seal was just because mine got damaged when I took it apart to clean it. I just pulled the old one off, made sure the old adhesive was completely removed, (it peeled off like scotch tape), I cleaned it, then I slowly went around the edge of the vent/housing and stuck the new foam seal down. No video required, just common sense.
Before buying the parts, I had already taken my machine apart to clean it and check for lint build up, but there was only a bit of dust, no major blockages. Because the burning smell was metallic, I just had my fingers crossed that replacing the heating element and thermostat would do the trick. It worked!
There is an odd ceramic sort of smell in the first 5 minutes of using the new element but that went away and all is working well at this point.
My components looked slightly different from those on the video; I had fewer wires so I just took photos of everything before I started to make sure I put it all back in the correct place.
I had to watch another video on how to easily remove the thermostat, mine was stuck. I just used a flat head screw driver behind it like a lever and gently pried it off.
It took me about 30 minutes total only because I had to watch a couple of extra YouTube videos due to the differences of my machine. I don’t usually do repairs like this one and wanted to be completely sure I was doing it correctly, but the work/repair itself was super easy.
The lint trap seal was just because mine got damaged when I took it apart to clean it. I just pulled the old one off, made sure the old adhesive was completely removed, (it peeled off like scotch tape), I cleaned it, then I slowly went around the edge of the vent/housing and stuck the new foam seal down. No video required, just common sense.
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It was having a hard time starting and would quit.
First I had to take the top of the dryer off by taking the two screws off of the lint trap on top then I pushed the top forward a little and lifted up. Then I had to take the front of the dryer off (I think there was two screws). After that I had to take the belt off to be able to get the drum out. I pulled off the old seal and had to use some glue remover to get the old glue off. I then put the new seal on did a little bit at a time to make sure it was on correctly. The glue is really sticky once it starts to dry. It takes two people to put the seal on especially when it gets down to the end. Although my dryer defenitly needed a new seal it was not the problem. It was not very difficult at all, just more time consuming with trying to get the old glue off. Will be buying a new motor, found one cheap and alot less expensive than buying a new dryer considering when I am done I will pretty much have a new dryer for about $120.00.
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- Customer:
- Kevin from pendleton, IN
- Parts Used:
- 279838
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
bad heating element
Pulled the dryer away from the wall took back cover off the dryer. Used volt/ohm meter to identify the bad element. Ordered the element it came in two days. 2 screws and 2 wires to plug in and we were back to drying cloths
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- Customer:
- MONTE from CHESAPEAKE, VA
- Parts Used:
- WP18776
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Dryer Top Panel is Loose
1) Unplug power cable from dryer.
2) Remove the 2 screws that secure the chute for lint filter screen with
Phillips head screwdriver.
3) Remove the lint filter screen.
4) Depress plastic locking clip on each side with putty knife to release
tension and lift up top panel to clear the locking clips. Each locking
clip is located 2-1/2 inches from the front edge of side panel.
5) Lift the top panel and lean against the wall for support. If dryer top
panel cannot be raised all the way due to cabinet(s) above, tape
the dryer top panel to cabinet above or have somebody hold the
top panel for temporary support.
6) Install the new metal locking clips. Ensure that the elongated tab
of the metal locking clip is towards the front of dryer. Compress
locking clip lightly with pliers and push down into the hole.
7) Lower the dryer top panel and press it down in place over the metal
locking clips for a tight fit.
8) Reinstall the 2 screws to secure the lint filter chute.
9) Reinstall lint filter screen.
10) Reconnect power cable for dryer.
11) Turn on dryer and inspect that all dryer panels (top, sides and
front) are tight and secured.
Repair Duration: 5 minutes
2) Remove the 2 screws that secure the chute for lint filter screen with
Phillips head screwdriver.
3) Remove the lint filter screen.
4) Depress plastic locking clip on each side with putty knife to release
tension and lift up top panel to clear the locking clips. Each locking
clip is located 2-1/2 inches from the front edge of side panel.
5) Lift the top panel and lean against the wall for support. If dryer top
panel cannot be raised all the way due to cabinet(s) above, tape
the dryer top panel to cabinet above or have somebody hold the
top panel for temporary support.
6) Install the new metal locking clips. Ensure that the elongated tab
of the metal locking clip is towards the front of dryer. Compress
locking clip lightly with pliers and push down into the hole.
7) Lower the dryer top panel and press it down in place over the metal
locking clips for a tight fit.
8) Reinstall the 2 screws to secure the lint filter chute.
9) Reinstall lint filter screen.
10) Reconnect power cable for dryer.
11) Turn on dryer and inspect that all dryer panels (top, sides and
front) are tight and secured.
Repair Duration: 5 minutes
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