11097591210 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Kevin from VALDOSTA, GA
- Parts Used:
- 279640
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Dryer was squealing
Disconnected Power cord, removed vent pipe, removed back panel, had to slide top cover off to remove additional screw holding back on. Went down to where the Idler Pulley was, removed old piece by depressing on the spring loaded actuator and slid it off the belt and all. Replaced same as removal.
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- Customer:
- Anthony from SAINT CLOUD, FL
- Parts Used:
- W10837240
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
My idler pully was squealing
I removed the bottom access panel, with 2 hands i reached in behind the blower, i released the belt, i used a screwdriver to pop the retainer from the pully spindle, i removed and replaced the pully, i snapped the retainer back on and replaced the belt. I made sure the belt was on track and all was good. I put the bottom panel back on, it took all of 5 minutes. The hardest part was the retainer clip faces the rear of the dryer so you have to feel it. Also , the space is tight, use a smaller flathead screwdriver to get behind the clip, it will pop right off.
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- Customer:
- Douglas from Tiburon, CA
- Parts Used:
- 349241T
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
incessantly annoyingly squeaky dryer
Take out 2 philips screws in lint trap holder on top. Use flat screwdriver to pry up front left and right of dryer top near outside edges and tilt up out of the way. Remove 2 push-on AC connectors on door switch and remove plastic clip holding wires to dryer's front top metal edge. Remove (2) 5/16" sheet metal screw on inside top left and right edges to free up front panel. Lift front panel about an inch and it'll then pull off. It helps to have a second person to help hold or remove the drum at this point. It took 3 times for me to guess right on the squeak. First time I replaced the belt, second time I replaced these rollers, third and final time I replaced the idler pulley, the shaft of which had worn completely off so clearly i can't figure out how we didn't see (or hear) it the first two times! Dri-Slide lube helped stop the squeaking the first two times, but it always returned until this time, now I have a thoroughly rebuilt dryer for the next generation! (PS vacuum out the bottom of the dryer while it's open to remove both lint and greasy roller shavings - do this FIRST and you'll have cleaner hands & clothes!)
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- Customer:
- Glenn from KINGSPORT, TN
- Parts Used:
- WP3390719
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Dryer would not start, showed F40 code
Very easy do it yourself repair, and saved at least $300.00. I watched a video and it took me less than 20 minutes to complete repair. Part fit perfect and I have already ordered another to keep as a spare.
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- Customer:
- David from JOLIET, IL
- Parts Used:
- 349241T
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Rear drum rollers were shot.
I followed the instructions on the video and it was simple. The hardest part was vacuuming out 32 years of lint from around the motor and igniter. I was lucky there was never a fire in the dryer.
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- Customer:
- Michael from Annapolis, MD
- Parts Used:
- WP3387223
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Clothes were not drying on auto sensor.
Followed standard instructions regarding removal of top first & then the front panels. Realized after following this process that I did not have to remove top, but only one of front panels to obtain access to moisture sensor. If I have to do this again, the replacement of sensor will be much easier.
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- Customer:
- Lawrence from ARITON, AL
- Parts Used:
- 280114
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Old. Original heat seal was deteriorated and peeling off. Streaks were getting on the clothes.
Removed the front panel, removed the tub and removed the old seal. Tub seal area was scraped, sanded and wiped with acetone to ensure a clean. Bonding surface. Applied adhesive with and acid brush to get a consistent adhesive layer without getting too much in any one place. Seal was a bit smaller than the tub circumference so it had to be stretch to fit. While the adhesive was curing , I took the time to clean the contact surfaces and vacuum the lint from inside the cabinet. Reinstalled the tub, drive belt and front panel.
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- Customer:
- Lucy from CHADDS FORD, PA
- Parts Used:
- WP3387223
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Hard to reach the screws inside the dryer They were on the door side of the dryer and hard to reach, especially if you are a abig guy.
Removed the dryer door, unscrewed lint vent.
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Bad disposable fuse & possible defective thermostat
Unpluged dryer power cord.
Removed lower front panel (two snap clips at top of panel)(Rear panel cannot be removed from this dryer). Removed blower/filter housing (held by two screws). Found blown fuse by using an ohm meter across the fuse terminals with one wire removed - no continuity. When new parts arrived, I removed two wires from fuse and four wires from thermostat. Removed two screws holding fuse and two screws holding thermostat, and removed both parts.
I then reversed the above procedures.
Dryer works great!
Total cost, including shipping, was $47.76
Removed lower front panel (two snap clips at top of panel)(Rear panel cannot be removed from this dryer). Removed blower/filter housing (held by two screws). Found blown fuse by using an ohm meter across the fuse terminals with one wire removed - no continuity. When new parts arrived, I removed two wires from fuse and four wires from thermostat. Removed two screws holding fuse and two screws holding thermostat, and removed both parts.
I then reversed the above procedures.
Dryer works great!
Total cost, including shipping, was $47.76
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- Customer:
- Gerald from STATE COLLEGE, PA
- Parts Used:
- 279787
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
dryer did not run
remove top, front, drum, fan fan housing, replace motor
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- Customer:
- Genette from CLEVELAND, MS
- Parts Used:
- 661570
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Belt was raffling and there was aloud knocking sound
Removed the screws replaced the belt and lubricated the wheels and that fixed my Knocking and it runs like when I first got it
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- Customer:
- Joseph from WEST PALM BCH, FL
- Parts Used:
- W10837240
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Dryer squealing loudly during operation
Unplug dryer from 220VAC outlet
Remove bottom cover panel, slip a flat blade screwdriver into each clamp, and bottom piece becomes removable. Pull forward and lift bottom cover piece.
Pull up top section from dryer frame. Disconnect dryer door off/on contact three wire switch by pressing plastic connector together. You may need a small flat blade screwdriver to seperate connector.
Remove two Torx (T15 head) screws in the far left and right corners of the front door panel.
Remove two screws underneath dryer lint screen, be careful to not let front door and front cover fall forward. The rotating dryer drum will now be loose.
Underneath drum, there is a cover panel over the dryer motor. Likely you will find a bunch of lint all about. This dryer had likely not been cleaned in many years.
Remove screws on dryer motor cover.
Remove panel. Likely, you’ll more lint about.
After vacuuming, use a flashlight and hand mirror to locate belt tensioner, back side of motor. If your belt is not broken, press down on the tensioner spring and remove belt from tensioner and motor. Inspect belt, replace if worn. In this instance the belt was well worn.
Slowly pull dryer drum forward, walking belt along as you bring drum forward out of the dryer casing.
At this point you have plenty of room to access the one bolt holding the tensioner, in this instance it was a 13mm socket. Be careful to remove the tensioner springs before removing the bracket. Your PartsSelect is an identical match to the original one.
Install new tensioner, tighten slightly, then put springs back on.
Reverse this entire process to get your dryer back together and back running smooth and quiet as it was when new.
This dryer was quieter than its owners remembered it being back when new 15 years ago.
Well worth saving the $ doing your own work.
Good luck on your repair endeavor!
Remove bottom cover panel, slip a flat blade screwdriver into each clamp, and bottom piece becomes removable. Pull forward and lift bottom cover piece.
Pull up top section from dryer frame. Disconnect dryer door off/on contact three wire switch by pressing plastic connector together. You may need a small flat blade screwdriver to seperate connector.
Remove two Torx (T15 head) screws in the far left and right corners of the front door panel.
Remove two screws underneath dryer lint screen, be careful to not let front door and front cover fall forward. The rotating dryer drum will now be loose.
Underneath drum, there is a cover panel over the dryer motor. Likely you will find a bunch of lint all about. This dryer had likely not been cleaned in many years.
Remove screws on dryer motor cover.
Remove panel. Likely, you’ll more lint about.
After vacuuming, use a flashlight and hand mirror to locate belt tensioner, back side of motor. If your belt is not broken, press down on the tensioner spring and remove belt from tensioner and motor. Inspect belt, replace if worn. In this instance the belt was well worn.
Slowly pull dryer drum forward, walking belt along as you bring drum forward out of the dryer casing.
At this point you have plenty of room to access the one bolt holding the tensioner, in this instance it was a 13mm socket. Be careful to remove the tensioner springs before removing the bracket. Your PartsSelect is an identical match to the original one.
Install new tensioner, tighten slightly, then put springs back on.
Reverse this entire process to get your dryer back together and back running smooth and quiet as it was when new.
This dryer was quieter than its owners remembered it being back when new 15 years ago.
Well worth saving the $ doing your own work.
Good luck on your repair endeavor!
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- Customer:
- james from york, PA
- Parts Used:
- W10820036
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Dryer would not run
There are two screws that hold the switch in place. And two wires connected to the switch. The most difficult part of replacement is to place the new switch and hold it in place to reinstall the mounting screws. The space to work in is limited unless you remove the front panel from the dryer, which I opted not to do.
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- Customer:
- Russ from Vernal, UT
- Parts Used:
- W10120998
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
A hole in filter
Remove old filter
Vacuum out
Install new filter
Vacuum out
Install new filter
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- Customer:
- donald from MANVILLE, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WP3390719
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
dryer would not turn on
turned off the power and removed the back cover, checked the thermal fuse had no continuity. ordered new part. very easy Installed the new thermal fuse,.replaced the cover, turned on the power and worked fine.
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