1106008712 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

I used your great video for pointers as to what to do. I took off the front, raised the top, vacuumed the whole thing up, that took quite a while. Took out the drum. Did more cleaning. Then took off the old retaining rings with retaining ring pliers, took off the old drum rollers and support. Replaced with new roller supports, washer, roller, washer and retaining rings. Then I replaced the belt. Tested it and turned the wrong way and it came off. Replaced and tested it again and I don't know why but it came off. Replaced the belt again, tested fine. Then I replaced the felt pads and glides, they were worn. I ended up asking my husband to help hold the drum so I could get the front back on. Replaced front and door. Tried the dryer. Works great AND very, very little noise. Note: when taking the wiring off the light and the door switch, I took photo's of those places with my cell phone and had them to look at to make sure the wiring was correct.

Jimmied out the latch using two screw drivers to get under the edges. Pushed the new piece in. Voila! Took 2 minutes for what my repair man told me would cost about $200 to fix. Unbelievable!!( I first watched some YouTube videos to get the idea )

followed directions that came with order confirmation e-mail

simple repair, pop the dryer lid, remove the screw for the front of the door. install cable and spring and then reassemble.

The only task that took some time was remembering to take out the screws for the lint port prior to lifting the lid.

First used wet vac to get water out. Unplug electrical cord. Shut off water and unhook lines. Unhook drain tube. Flip over on side. Take belt cover off. two screws.
Took photos of parts removing just for re- install. Ordered parts from part select.com. Came in Two days. The dealer was on 12 days I gave up on them. I removed actuator two easy screws and pulled off electrical connection no tool needed. Then removed pump three longer screws Than other part. Make sure to label them in a ziplock baggie. Plus I removed hose clamp with pliers slide Back on hose and pull hose off. Then remove electrical connection on pump. If it makes you feel better label each with masking tape so I know where each connection goes. Then replace pump first with new one. Make sure you push it in hard then the screws. Don’t over tighten. Plastic parts break. Hook back up hose slide clamp back over fitting end with pliers. Hook up wire connector. Next hook up actuator. Two screws wire connector and your done. Put belt guard back on. Socks can get caught under washer get in belt and cause major issue. Then you need to reconnect water lines. Make sure hot goes to hot. Cold to cold. Drain hose hook back up. Plug in power cord. Now the fun part. Run a diagnostic and then calibration. See you tube videos it’s like 3 clicks to left then two to right with selector knob. Write down the exact amount of clicks and steps. It works. Be sure to turn knob 4 times to left to clear it like a combination lock. Don’t let the noises scare you it makes all
Kinds of sounds while calibration goes on.

The numbers on the metal plates were the JC Penney numbers - that no one recognizes. I eventually found the model number inside the timer case on a printed schematic. I started by disassembling whatever metal covers were removable by finding sheet metal screws and unscrewing them. If you pull on the sheet metal covers, you can find where they are connected to the frame. Eventually, I found that both the heating element was broken and the thermostat was fried. It took a while looking at various websites to find the proper parts. It's all OK now.

Before beginning, unplugged dryer. 1) Used putty knife at each front corner of top to pop lid loose from clips. 2) Removed hex screws at back of control panel to allow lid to tip open. 3) With lid opened, removed hex screw from inside-top of each side to allow front to pull open from side panels and access door switch easily. 4) Removed clip that holds retaining wires from top. 5) Pulled wire from each side of door switch. 6) Removed switch assembly using Phillips screwdriver to remove two screws mounting switch at top of door opening. 7) Removed broken actuator spring and replaced. 8) Reversed process to reassemble.

This was rather easy to fix. I had never opened the dryer before but had a serviceman come out so I knew that you can pop the top of the dryer off by putting a flat edge screwdriver in between the top and bottom and popping up. You must remove the screws from the lint dryer before so the top comes off. The piece to replace had two screws and that was it. To get a repairmen from Sxxrs where we purchased it 15 years ago they charge a flat fee of $75 just to come out. That does not include the repair just a fee to come and tell you how much more it would cost to fix it. I ordered the part for less than $5 and $12 more for 2-3 day delivery! What a bargin! I was back drying clothes 15 minutes after the part arrived! Very happy that the part is still being made!

First I was told by the maytag repair man that the motor was shot and it would be 467 dollars to repair. Since I didn't have that kind of money I decided to take it apart to see if I could replace the motor myself. Once I had it apart I saw the part that held the motor in place was broken off and the motor was out of place causing it too shut itself off. Once I figured it all out it took about 2 minutes to replace the less than 6 dollar part! Thanks partSelect!!!

Disconnect dryer.
Unscrew the two screws that hold the door actuator assemby.
replace broken spring.
Screw the the two screws back.

Two screws holding top, unhook wire conector. remove cabinet,replace switch. Reassemble.

My dryer is 35 years old and thought this was it, but I googled the question and found out it was the door switch. Orderd the part and received it very fast and didn't want to wait for my husband to come home so I went on you tube and found a video how to open dryer and change switch. I did it in about 30 min. and yes it is now perfect again. No problems. I just unscrewed the old switch and put the new one in. Maybe I'll get another 35 years out of this machine. :o) Thanks for making it so easy.

To replace the light bulb, I removed the screw and the cover, unscrewed the old bulb, replaced with the new bulb and replaced the cover, securing it with the small screw. It worked appropriately with normal use for a few days and then I noticed the light was not coming on when I opened the door.

I removed the cover and pulled out the bulb to find that the filaments inside are dangling and burned through. I need them replaced, please.

Removed what was left of the old hinges, installed the new ones. Also added a length of jack chain (same size chain that’s on a toilet flapper) to one side to support the door while open. Tried to chain up both sides but it wouldn’t let the door completely close and depress the switch. Cables are no longer supplied by any parts dealers.

First diagnose the problem. No air coming out the exhaust or filter, things aren’t drying, you can’t hear the blower running.
Fuses or breakers are verified ok and on.
Turn dryer off. Disconnect exhaust tubing after unscrewing it’s clamp. Drag the dryer away from the wall to get access to the back and unplug the 220 v power cable from its socket. Get behind the dryer to remove its back cover plate by unscrewing its holding screws with screwdriver or small socket wrenches.
Vacuum out the back of the dryer removing the powdery dust around the blower motor and pulley and remove the old belt.
Since there is no adjustment arm, you have to stretch the belt around the rim of the blower pulley with both thumbs pulling upward against the motor pulley below.
After the belt is in place you can pull on it to be sure both pulleys rotate so the blower fan will rotate. Then just put the back plate on the dryer, replug it in, push it back enough to hook up the exhaust pipe and push the dryer back to its home spot.
Turn it on and you’re ready to go. Then order a spare belt for the future in about 5 + years.