11079133414 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Couple screws behind the electrical panel at the top and the top pushed back and was able to remove front panel, and then it was pretty easy. Take the two screws on top front, lint trap screws . The lint trap vent needs to come off. Then the belt, drum comes out to access the idler pulley. I did replace two drum wheels, I saw there was 5. I would recommend replacing all of them, they didn’t move well…..

Followed online video very easy and dryer works like new one....

Once I received the new latch I removed the latch cover with the flat head screw driver and worked out the old latch. I then positioned the new latch and snapped in place. I then replaced the cover and shut the Dryer door. The door latched and the repair was complete.

Remove the protective cover on door with screwdriver, pop out the old catch, snap new catch in place, replace protective cover

Replaced door catch on dryer door. Followed video on Whirlpool website and it took less than 10 minutes. The dryer works great.

I pushed one end of the catch on upper side the hole and when locked, I pushed the other end of the catch to the lower side to get locked. To complete, the white cover was inserted on top of the catch and done.

took out old ,twisted in the new one it was nice to have the right part the first time!! thank-you

This could not have been easier. The hardest part was tipping the dryer over on its' side.
Instructions:
1. Tip dryer over onto a non-scratch surface. I used a tarp on the floor.
Insert leveling foot into the foot opening on the bottom of the dryer &
screw in with fingers until it is difficult to turn.
2. Use the adjustable wrench on the hexed foot (not the threads) to adjust to the desired level.
3. Tip dryer upright taking care not to exert pressure on the feet closest to floor. I used a folded-up tarp under the bottom edge of the dryer while lifting it to the upright position.
4. Use a level, back to front & side to side, to determine if feet need further adjustment.
5. Adjustments can be made with the dryer in the upright position, using the adjustable wrench on the hexed foot.

I researched causes of the noise, zeroed it down to the idler pulley. I then got the dryer schematic and took the dryer apart after disconnecting the power and the vent. i did not have to remove the drum, the idler pulley was easily accessible once the top and back panels were removed. I simply removed the drive belt from tension off the pulley, removed the old pulley and installed the new one. Once finished the dryer was running whisper quiet.

Unplugged the Dryer first. Removed the two screws from the bottom panel using a 1/4 socket and removed the panel by pulling down and out. Reached behind the blower and removed the connectors from the old thermistor and then the thermistor itself by removing the two 1/4 inch hex head screws. Replaced with new part and after screwing back in, reconnected the wires and replaced the panel. From start to finish, it took me about 20 minutes.

I first tried replacing the Radiant Flame Sensor, which was located in a tight space and was very difficult to access. I finally gave up and called a handyman to replace it. That didn't fix my problem. I needed a new igniter. That was easy to replace, but it's fragile and I broke the first one...

rts came quickly & I got started. First, I unplugged the dryer and pulled it away from the wall about a foot. this was done so the top would have clearance when it was lifted up. Next, I removed the lint trap and then took the two screws under the lint trap door out. Then you use a screwdriver(flat blade) to release the top of the dryer. The release points are about 1-2 inches from the edge of dryer. Next pull the wire connector apart so the front can be removed. The connector is on the right side, front corner, facing the dryer. There are two hexhead screws near the top on both sides. Remove the and the front will come apart as you lift it slightly. Then you disengage the tub belt. Once this is done the tub can be lifted out and set aside/ take care to remember each things position as you take it apart, so you will not get confused when you reassemble. Now the solinoid assembley is easy to get to. Use a phillips screw driver and remove the two screws that retain the bracket that holds the solinoids in place.. Lift the bracket and remove one solinoid at a time. Pull the wire from it and plug the new, like solinoid to the wire and put it back in place. then do the other one. set the bracket back over the new kit and replace the screws to the bracket. Set the tub back in, rethread the belt to the drive wheel. Next put the front back on making sure the bottom part slips into the two sides of the dryer.Replace the hexhead screws on each side; plug the wire connector together. Now , pull the lid down into position and press into place. Replace the lint trap screws and replace the lint trap. Plug dryer up and we are done. Repossition the dryer to its original place. It really was not a hard job at all. Thank-you Susan for your help and expertise.

I follow the instructions provided on the your web site, the instructions were very easy to follow and to the point. In all it easier than expected. your information regarding the probability that the indicated part will solve the problem are great! That gave me a good feeling about ordering the part from you. Thanks for your help.

I started by changing the part that had the highest percentage to solve this problem , the top three didn't work , the fourth part, the disposable thermostat, and the last one that could be done from the front worked.

Message indicated something amiss in the motor circuit. Followed Instructions in the on-board manual. Turned out to be the internal-bias thermostat, and the exhaust air thermistor both. Changed faulty parts, cleaned lint from the system and we are off and running again.
Thank You.
DW Pranger