11086879100 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

tested continuity, determined thermal fuse was open. PartSelect sent a new fuse very quickly, and it was just a matter of reconnecting the wires and putting the back cover on the dryer. Started right up.

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

replaced internal dryer filter housing

I first watched the helpful video on website. Un- plugged the dryer. I removed the back cover and tested the thermal fuse with the multi meter. Ordered the replacement part. Replaced the Thermal Fuse, and put the back cover back on. This was a very easy fix! It takes longer to remove the back cover of the dryer than it does to replace the fuse. While I had the back cover I used my air compressor to blow out any lint. This dryer is as good as new now. this site fast shipper, Great website.

Jimmied out the latch using two screw drivers to get under the edges. Pushed the new piece in. Voila! Took 2 minutes for what my repair man told me would cost about $200 to fix. Unbelievable!!( I first watched some YouTube videos to get the idea )

Move dryer away from wall. Unplug the dryer. Open the hinge top from the front edges of dryer. Remove the two screws holding the filter channel onto the top of dryer. Lean the top of dryer back away from the front . Open the dryer door, Locate switch from the top looking into the dryer top opening where you have just leaning the top back out of your way. Unplug the wire from the old switch. remove the old switch and bracket using the flat blade screwdriver for screw removal.
Place the wire on the new switch using the normally open contacts. place switch on bracket and gently position the bracket and switch over the holes designed for the switch and tighten screws using the new Phillips head screws sent with the new switch. place the top back into place and replace the filter channel screws plug in the dryer and job finished. easy as 1-2-3

removed the rear panel to gain access to the internals of the dryer, removed the one screw that retains the fuse, out with the old and in with the new.
delivery of the part was 2 days sooner than expected.
could not have been a simpler process!

Unplugged stove . Removed floor of oven . Easy . Removed the ignitor ,near back of stove under removed floor . .Left it in place to enable locating where wire came through back of stove . Pulled the stove away from wall . Removed back panel of stove . followed ignitor wire to its plug in position . Returned to the front of stove . Inserted new ignitor wire through back wall of stove . Went behind stove , pulled wire through enough to plug new ignitor into proper position . Put back panel onto stove . Pushed stove back against wall . Went back into oven to screw new ignitor into place . Replaced oven floor panels . Put cooking racks back in . Wife proceeded to bake once again .

I watched a U Tube video about banging sound from dryer. Once I recognized the problem, lifted the top, removed 2 screws holding the front, removed the drum, and bingo. Saw the worn out drum roller. Ordered the replacement parts from "PartSelect" on line (Great Company). Was in no hurry, so I chose regular mail delivery. 4 days later, got the correct replacement parts, put the dryer back together, and now, the dryer is quieter then when I bought it new, a thousand years ago. I will never again be afraid to tackle an appliance issue. THANK YOU !!!

I followed the on-line video. I am extremely happy I made the effort and successfully fixed my dryer on my own. It sure beats a new dryer expense or high repair cost.

The numbers on the metal plates were the JC Penney numbers - that no one recognizes. I eventually found the model number inside the timer case on a printed schematic. I started by disassembling whatever metal covers were removable by finding sheet metal screws and unscrewing them. If you pull on the sheet metal covers, you can find where they are connected to the frame. Eventually, I found that both the heating element was broken and the thermostat was fried. It took a while looking at various websites to find the proper parts. It's all OK now.

Had to replace the rear felt seal and the motor. It was no problem to find videos on how to do both of these repairs. Took apart the appliance. When the parts came first replaced the drum rear felt seal and waited for the motor to be delivered. Then replaced the motor as per online instructions. Also went to Home Depot to buy a new flexible dryer tube since the old one had a few holes. It works perfectly again.

First unplug appliance, Remove dryer top and front. remove drum and belt. Two clamps hold motor in place. remove them and lint chute housing in rear, exposing the fan. Use vice grips to hold motor shaft behind belt pulley flat spot. Remove fan, it's reverse threads. A large adjustable wrench on plastic fan nut and spray lubricant if very tight. Place new motor next to old and switch wires over, crimp on new 1/8'' connectors. Remember the green ground wire may need an allen wrench. Put back drum,belt, lube the rollers and replace back cover, front, top.

I guess you could say I went through the process of elemanation, first I replased the thermostat,removed 2 screws pulled off 3 wired with a pair of pliers put them on the new one, still no hot air so I replaced the fuse, took out 1 screw removed 2 wires and placed them on the new fuse, still no hot air, finally I replaced the thermal cut-off switch and WOW that was it hot air was blowing again, the process was very easy I ordered everything from parts slect and they were here the next day, only had to take the back off the dryer with a nut wrench, locate the thernastat, fuse and thermal cut-off which was just above the heating coil I removed 1 screw pulled off 2 wires and place them on the new one. very easy and the repair storys really helped locating the problem

So I opened the back up, and looked down the flame shoot and I could see that the igniter was never glowing red. (You can actually see the red glow of the igniter when its working right, then you here the solonoid click and flame. But again all this when its working correctly.) So anyway, no heat no glowing red.

I took the voltmeter out, grounded 1 lead and just followed the voltage (using the schematic provided), through the switches, yada yada trying to trace how far it got.

Voltage got to 1 side of thermal fuse, but not to other side. Bingo. Disconnected fuse and did continuity check - open. All of this took diagnosing took 1/2 hour to hour. Not really counting toward fix. Ordered the part at parts select. Put a jumper over the fuse so that clothes could still be dried (probably not recommended but it works). Part arrived in 2 days. Didn't even put the back panel on.

The part is right on the back. 1 screw, 2 space terminals. Takes all of 3 minutes to replace. Then another 5 minutes to put the back panel on and vent hose back on. Most of that is because you are working in a cramped space. (I don't have the biggest laundry room.)

Can't beat parts select!

Parts select + a little know how, saved me about $400.