11086894500 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

turned off the power and removed the back cover, checked the thermal fuse had no continuity. ordered new part. very easy Installed the new thermal fuse,.replaced the cover, turned on the power and worked fine.

First used wet vac to get water out. Unplug electrical cord. Shut off water and unhook lines. Unhook drain tube. Flip over on side. Take belt cover off. two screws.
Took photos of parts removing just for re- install. Ordered parts from part select.com. Came in Two days. The dealer was on 12 days I gave up on them. I removed actuator two easy screws and pulled off electrical connection no tool needed. Then removed pump three longer screws Than other part. Make sure to label them in a ziplock baggie. Plus I removed hose clamp with pliers slide Back on hose and pull hose off. Then remove electrical connection on pump. If it makes you feel better label each with masking tape so I know where each connection goes. Then replace pump first with new one. Make sure you push it in hard then the screws. Don’t over tighten. Plastic parts break. Hook back up hose slide clamp back over fitting end with pliers. Hook up wire connector. Next hook up actuator. Two screws wire connector and your done. Put belt guard back on. Socks can get caught under washer get in belt and cause major issue. Then you need to reconnect water lines. Make sure hot goes to hot. Cold to cold. Drain hose hook back up. Plug in power cord. Now the fun part. Run a diagnostic and then calibration. See you tube videos it’s like 3 clicks to left then two to right with selector knob. Write down the exact amount of clicks and steps. It works. Be sure to turn knob 4 times to left to clear it like a combination lock. Don’t let the noises scare you it makes all
Kinds of sounds while calibration goes on.

Not a handyman but this was an easy and cheap fix. Now the automatic settings are working and drying much faster. Unplug machine, front panel has 2 spring clips toward the edges that you stick a flat tool into and pull on the panel to open. Pull off the electrical connections from the old sensors by the right side of the lint screen. Needlenose pliers help with the one farther up there. Then just pull the old ones sensors out, stick the new ones in, reconnect the electrical and get ready to live the good life with dry clothes that don't smell musty.

Using a flat-head screw driver, I removed the 1 screw from the small "door" on the back, upper right corner. Once the screw was removed, it allowed the door plate to "pop" open; exposing the old bulb. I removed the old bulb; replaced it with the new one. DONE!

After turning off the power to the dryer I removed two screws to the bottom front panel and droped it out of the way. I remved three screws hloding the lint screen in place just for better axcess to the element. I then removed the two wires attached to the element and then the two screws holding the element in place. I put everything back together in reverse. I also took the time to clean any dust and lint out.

Took the back and top off of my front loader. I had checked on you tube for the problem and how to fix it and ordered the part. Just followed the directions on how to remove the old idle pulley and installing the new one. Dryer runs like new!

1.Removed lower dryer cover - two screws. 2.Tested heating element circuit including high temp cutoff, - Heating element circuit was "open" so I first tested the heating element - "open" so I removed one screw on the side and removed the element - element broken. 3.Ordered the part - good price and the deliver was great, three days. 4. Cleaned any lint up and Installed the new heating element and front panel 5. Heated right up - probably saved myself a good $100 for less than thirty minutes of work!!!!

Removed the screws replaced the belt and lubricated the wheels and that fixed my Knocking and it runs like when I first got it

Ezee pezee lemon squeezee.

It's a electric dryer, I knew it was related with the thermal !

Took, back cover out,but first i disconect the electricity,i give a fast look,looking for anything wrong and i saw a thermostar burn out in the element case,the bottom one,a thermostart
250 f. but a did a search in the internet,and found that when a bottom thermostart burn out, the top one had to be change,so i did a continuity text in the top one and was open ,i have it,a used one, change and connect the dryer to the Electrical outlet and (walac)it start the dryer,problem solve

Followed standard instructions regarding removal of top first & then the front panels. Realized after following this process that I did not have to remove top, but only one of front panels to obtain access to moisture sensor. If I have to do this again, the replacement of sensor will be much easier.

Two Phillips screws, and 2 5/16 bolts and the dryer is open for this repair. Remove the drum and note the placement of the drive belt. Then using a pipe wrench grab the rear plastic fan housing, at the rear of the motor shaft, and turn the front of the motor shaft CLOCKWISE. If the Fan is ceased (as it was in my case) you will need to use locking vice grips (at least 3 or 4 between the fan blades to stop the fan blades from turning on the rear shaft.) while your turning the front of the motor's shaft. If done properly, you should have about 25-30 turns before the motor is free for replacement.
Once this is accomplished, mounting the new motor back into the dryer is a simple matter of reversing your steps. But keep note of the belt placement and the motor wiring placement before starting.

YOU NEVER SENT ME THE PARTS!!!
I had to drive to a parts store to find them. On January 17, 2024, I tried to call you when the parts did not arrive and your recording said there were no reps available and you hung up. WE CANNOT GET HELP TO CANCEL THIS ORDER. We have been going in circles with PartSelect and shipping. SO, how do I get my refund of the $107.26 for the parts that I never received!!

How to repair E1 error/fault on Whirlpool Duet dryer model GEW9200LW0 please watch that video very helpful.