1106807822 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

I followed the video. So easy..

Ordered the motor with pulley and blower wheel in case the wheel did not come free from the motor.
Took out the lint screen, took off the top and disconnected the wires for the door switch, took off the front.
Remove the idler poi and the belt and then removed the drum.
I read in other repair YouTube videos, the blower wheel sometimes is so seized onto the motor axle that you have to remove the wheel by cutting it off.
Yes, ours seized!
Cut off the motor axle with a hacksaw and then the motor and the wheel were free. This was not an issue since I had purchased both the motor and the wheel which I recommend doing anyway. Our dryer over 25 years old and it does not have many electrical components, which I love. We removed the parts put in the new parts. Follow the wiring diagram to get the new motor hooked up.
Then I replaced the drum support rollers, which were a snap and then we put it all back together.
We added an extra step because we had to takeoff the back of the dryer to gain access to the blower. It turned out to be a good thing since years of lint have been trapped at the bottom of the lint chute.
I cleaned everything, washed everything and put it all back together and it purrs like a kitten.
Took us about 2 1/2 hours total since we are very cautious and slow as we didn’t want to break things.
I am very happy with the end result and hopefully it will last another 25 years!
Parts were spot on and worked perfectly.
Much more economical than buying a new dryer for $750-$1000.

Opened new package took item out and put it on the slot where the old filter was. Easy as pie. My dryer is 46 years old and works just fine.

Two Phillips screws, and 2 5/16 bolts and the dryer is open for this repair. Remove the drum and note the placement of the drive belt. Then using a pipe wrench grab the rear plastic fan housing, at the rear of the motor shaft, and turn the front of the motor shaft CLOCKWISE. If the Fan is ceased (as it was in my case) you will need to use locking vice grips (at least 3 or 4 between the fan blades to stop the fan blades from turning on the rear shaft.) while your turning the front of the motor's shaft. If done properly, you should have about 25-30 turns before the motor is free for replacement.
Once this is accomplished, mounting the new motor back into the dryer is a simple matter of reversing your steps. But keep note of the belt placement and the motor wiring placement before starting.

Followed the video instructions to replace motor, belt, and rollers (belt and rollers looked to be in ok shape, but as long as I had the thing open I figured I might as well). Fairly straightforward procedure. Trickiest parts were getting the rear roller clips in place and re-attaching the rear motor spring clip. Probably could've found a used dryer of comparable quality for less, but this was easier and more satisfying than moving dryers in and out of the basement.

I never received my part checked back after said hearing part had been shipped was told part was no longer available have called twice about my refund and not received that either

Removed back and then removed lint slide.
Vacuumed all of the cabinet and and washed lint chute.
Blower seal and lint seals were crumbling since dryer is 24
years old. Part Select diagrams and repair videos are extremely helpful in showing the process. Dryer now working like new.

Followed the instruction given by previous writers in these post.
Hint The bungee cord hook was used to hold up the lid, worked very well.
If you are by yourself use duct tape to hold the drum in place before removing the front panel. Tape the top rear of the drum to the rear frame. Also do this when reassembling the front panel.
Easy and quick makes the wife happy this time.
PS. Ordered the parts on Sunday and had them on Tuesday.

When i finally got sick and tired of hearing it when she used the dryer. I popped the top flipped it up unscrewed the 2 screws holding the front panel of the body on, picked up on it and pulled it off the drum. I then reached back to the rear right corner and stretched the tentioner and pulled the belt off the motor pulley.Then I picked up the belt and the drum and pulled it out of the dryer body. After seeing the drum support roller that is mounted on the base, and back of the left side I decided to go online and find this sight that had the drum support rollers as a set with the keepers and the push nut for the brace as a set for a really fair price. If your unit has a warranty "do not" take anything apart and do not order any pats until you check with your dealer. You do not want to void your warranty. I then pulled off the push nut and then i took the screw that held on the brace in front of the worn out drum roller, then pryed off the keeper and pull off the drum roller, took off the back keeper;inspect the shaft if it is not damaged ,(this one was not),then you wait until the parts arrive, yes your dryer will set in parts for about a week, but believe me in todays economy its worth "not having to buy a new dryer" at least for this small repair. When the parts arrive everything is pretty much in reverse of how you took it apart dont forget your cell phone is also a camera that can be a "memory enhancer" for when you get this far. Also be nice to your wife your going to need a little help putting it back together. Of course if she wants her dryer back she needs to help anyways. patience is a virtue and if you dont take your time and do this right it will be tested the drum and belt need to be fitted right and held up to get both the belt on the pulley and around the tentioner and get the front panel lined up on the front of the drum good luck and pass your knowledge on its getting to be a lost art.

I pried open the top of the dryer, removed the 2 scrws holding the front cover of the dryer, un hooked the dryer drum buide belt, removed the dryer drum - all this just to get to the drum support roller. The bottom roller - the rubber on the wheel had been "chewed of". I can only guess because too much weight was placed in the dryer with wet clothes.
I removed the triangle shaped retaining clip, using the mini flat head screw-driver, slid the damaged roller off, replaced the new roller, and installed the new retaining clip. To install the new clip, I used a 1/2inch nut driver. I did the same to replace the upper drum support roller. The actual repair took less than 5 minutes, However, the prep time in dismanteling the dryer in order to get to the drumm rollers and puting the dryer back to gether consumed the bulk of my time.

First I was told by the maytag repair man that the motor was shot and it would be 467 dollars to repair. Since I didn't have that kind of money I decided to take it apart to see if I could replace the motor myself. Once I had it apart I saw the part that held the motor in place was broken off and the motor was out of place causing it too shut itself off. Once I figured it all out it took about 2 minutes to replace the less than 6 dollar part! Thanks partSelect!!!

Opened up every panel EXCEPT the front, then discovered how easy that is. Replacement belt was a snap to install. I noticed some plastic collar thing on the driveshaft appeared to have melted. Did not appear to be critical part, so I put it together and tested it out. Seems to work fine. I think the collar is there to prevent the belt from potentially slipping off the driveshaft.

I squeezed the latch catch with a pair of pliers and pushed it in the catch hole. But that was the final repair. There were two "repairs" before that. First, we used two commercial grade rolls of wide plastic tape to tape the dryer door shut each time we used it, for a year, until we ran out of tape. Second, we positioned a chest of drawers in front of the dryer and wedged a 1" x 4" against the door. Very effective. Then I broke down and ordered the $3 catch.

Did not hear the "clicking noise of the door switch when the dryer door was shut. First I unplugged the dryer from the socket. Next I removed the two screws that hold the lint filter receptacle. Next I pried the top of the dryer open with a screwdriver. Next I removed the two screws that held the switch actuator spring in place located just inside the top of the door. Then I removed the old spring from the door switch and replaced with the new. Not too difficult once the problem was diagnosed.

It had been making noise for a week and I bought the two drum support rollers hoping that was the problem. It wasn't as the dryer started shutting down after a few minutes of running. I opened the top of the dryer and removed the 2 screws holding the face and door on. I removed the face and disconnected the door switch wires and released the drum belt by pushing on the idler pully. I then removed the drum straight out the top. I then put a wrench on the fan on the back of the motor and unscrewed it and then released the two holdown clamps on the motor and removed the motor. I had to make a couple of wiring modifications for the new motor but the instructions and connectors that came with the motor were perfect. I put everything back together and plugged the dryer back in and tried to start it and .... Nothing. I forgot to reconnect the door switch wires. Fixed that and the dryer now runs as good as new and makes no noise at all now (almost anyway). It should be good for another 10 years easy.