10697502820 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

the part fit perfectly, it just snaped right into place.

Unplug unit turn off gas, remove only bottom front panel first tried radient flame sensor was not the problem it was the coils which were infront easy to acess with small screw driver remove two prong coil and replaced then the three pronged coil being sure to line them back before tigtening left off cover and watched for ignition once it turned on and ran replaced cover and done.

just followed the video directions, worked perfectly thanks

removed screws that held the door face to gain access to catch replaced catch reassembled door tried dryer works great!

Followed Youtube video - quick & easy

After removing front door panel (2 screws) I removed the old latch catch and replace with the new part. 4 minutes later, the door was back together, the dryer was running and the door was staying closed.

Seemed daunting but pull the front off and the drum is basically just perched inside on some rollers. You have to pull it out to really reach in and wrap the 96”+ band around it and to motor and don’t forget to tension it with tension pulley if you don’t see that if your belt broke!
Another bonus is after 10 years I got to remove the softball size fur ball rolling in the squirrel cage fan , big help on air flow!!!

I diagnosed the problem, as a broken arm on the actuator for the door shut switch. I jumped the switch, and dryer worked. I went to this site, found the part I needed, ordered it/received it quickly, and proceeded to do the repair. The video that THIS particular part goes for, isn't' like MY dryer. My dryer hinges in the rear. You just remove the 2 screws on either side of the control panel, (right and left), pull forward on the panel, to ease its attachment, let it lie. Then with a small plastic pry tool, pop the 2 attaching points in the front of the dryer. Front end lifts up, like a hood on a car. My roommate held hood up, while I R&R'd the switch actuator. Went back together, in reverse of my taking apart. Worked great. Thanks a bunch.

I took off the back panel off the dryer. The idler pulley could be accessed on the bottom. It was a bit cramped but not too tough to replace.

I looked up the problem on Utube and saw a demo on what three items to check with a volt meter for continuity or resistence on either the start button, the door switch, or the thermal fuse. The first two checked out OK but the fuse was dead, no resistance or ohmns on the voltmeter. I had trouble locating it on my dryer as the Utube site said to pull the rear cabinet off when actually it was under the front panel below the dryer door sitting in an awkward position right on top of the dryer motor. I used 2 flat head screwdrivers to pry open the latches over the panel door that are located about 4 inches in from either end and then used a small right angle screwdriver with a flash light propped against the heating elements (after I removed the cover plate) to see with and to give me more room to loosen just two tiny screws that attached the fuse to the motor. Voila! It works better than before.

just replaced parys

Looked it up on YouTube. It told me to take the front panel off. I did, changed the belt, put the panel back on and it works perfectly. The part came in the time it was supposed to and it was the correct part. Thanks.

Followed the video.

Removed front of dryer. Located thermal fuse, replaced blown thermal fuse. Reassembled.

It was a lot easier then I thought. Just watch the tutorial of how to fix it on this website and you wont have a problem.