1106857700 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

Jimmied out the latch using two screw drivers to get under the edges. Pushed the new piece in. Voila! Took 2 minutes for what my repair man told me would cost about $200 to fix. Unbelievable!!( I first watched some YouTube videos to get the idea )

re-placed screen

This was rather easy to fix. I had never opened the dryer before but had a serviceman come out so I knew that you can pop the top of the dryer off by putting a flat edge screwdriver in between the top and bottom and popping up. You must remove the screws from the lint dryer before so the top comes off. The piece to replace had two screws and that was it. To get a repairmen from Sxxrs where we purchased it 15 years ago they charge a flat fee of $75 just to come out. That does not include the repair just a fee to come and tell you how much more it would cost to fix it. I ordered the part for less than $5 and $12 more for 2-3 day delivery! What a bargin! I was back drying clothes 15 minutes after the part arrived! Very happy that the part is still being made!

Replaced roller. Very simple. Dryer is the easiest appliance to repair. Only a few parts keep a dryer working

Disconnect dryer.
Unscrew the two screws that hold the door actuator assemby.
replace broken spring.
Screw the the two screws back.

lifted top section of dryer
removed front dryer panel
removed drum belt and tensioner
removed both drum rollers
cleaned both roller axles
installed new rollers
reassembled remainder of dryer
if you are at all mechanically inclined, it is a simple job

Before beginning, unplugged dryer. 1) Used putty knife at each front corner of top to pop lid loose from clips. 2) Removed hex screws at back of control panel to allow lid to tip open. 3) With lid opened, removed hex screw from inside-top of each side to allow front to pull open from side panels and access door switch easily. 4) Removed clip that holds retaining wires from top. 5) Pulled wire from each side of door switch. 6) Removed switch assembly using Phillips screwdriver to remove two screws mounting switch at top of door opening. 7) Removed broken actuator spring and replaced. 8) Reversed process to reassemble.

unplugged power, slide unit away from wall, removed bottom front cover, rear sheetmetal cover, tilted front of unit to remove roller outboard support (sheetmetal screw from bottom of dryer). Removed shaft bolt from rear of dryer which released roller assembly. Remove speed nut from old roller assembly to remove outboard support arm, mounted new roller to new shaft placed triangle clips (one each side of roller), mounted outboard support to front of new shaft and completed re-assembly (reverse order of disaasembly).

1 Vice grips are required to remove the fan/blower. Clamp on inside of dryer so you can remove the blower/fan assembly

Recommend 10" or larger 14" will definitely do the job

2. Blower/fan is reverse threaded when facing the back of the dryer. That is how I broke mine. Turn clockwise to loosen - feels very unnatural

3. If you have to replace the 5 & 6 electrical connectors, you have to have a barrel crimper for insulated terminals - IWISS SN-02C RATCHET TERMINAL CRIMPING PLIER TOOL, 24-14AWG is a good example

After watching the U Tube video to replace flywheel, I had a appliance repairman come to my home to install flywheel. There was no way I would have been able to put the dryer back together without some help.
I want to say "Thank You" to the sales representative who assisted me when purchasing my items, she was very patient while running around the house looking for the model number of the dryer.

Had to completely dismantle the dryer including the motor and grind off the.bolt holding the fan blade on. I did not realize it was threaded on with a left hand thread.Then reassembled.

Disassembled dryer, removed tumbler, replaced drum support rollers

After identfying that the problem was due to a damaged drum support roller, I decided to replace the bad roller instead of replacing the dyer itself.

The first thing was to remove the front cover
and the front panels to expose the drum. (Only a few screws hold them in place.) Next, the drum was removed by first releasing the belt from the motor pulley and tensioner, and then pulling the drum straight out.

At this point the two rollers would be exposed. The triangular plastic retaining locks were removed by slightly prying them off. The old rollers were then removed and replaced.

Before putting everything back, this was a good time to vacuum all the accumulated lint inside, especially the lint that had accumulated around the motor assembly and the fire box.

(A pleasant surprise: I found a lot of coins inside the unit, enough to recoup half of what I spent for the new rollers.)

This model you cannot lift the top lid without breaking it. Removed the exhaust hose and back of dryer. vacuum out the dryer and hose to remove the excess lint. Remove screws from the lint guard mounting. Loosen and remove 4 screws that hold the lint guard in place. The seal at the base of this assembly was missing the seal around the discharges fan. Remove seal with putty knife. Use a small brass wire brush to remove as much as you can. Vacuum area. Reinstall the lint guard assembly, start at the top, gently life and push assembly up and in. You should be able to determine how far. Start the bottom 4 screws, tight them. Check fit. Then put the screw back in on the lint guard on the top of dryer. Once you have completed this connect exhaust hose. Start dryer, check the dryer exhaust vent that is outside. If the flow is good, WELL DONE!

Recommendation: Check this assembly by removing the back of the dryer approximately every 6 mos. for lint build up. Not doing this may increase the risk of fire.