1109750212 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Followed the video.

Looked it up on YouTube. It told me to take the front panel off. I did, changed the belt, put the panel back on and it works perfectly. The part came in the time it was supposed to and it was the correct part. Thanks.

I looked up the problem on Utube and saw a demo on what three items to check with a volt meter for continuity or resistence on either the start button, the door switch, or the thermal fuse. The first two checked out OK but the fuse was dead, no resistance or ohmns on the voltmeter. I had trouble locating it on my dryer as the Utube site said to pull the rear cabinet off when actually it was under the front panel below the dryer door sitting in an awkward position right on top of the dryer motor. I used 2 flat head screwdrivers to pry open the latches over the panel door that are located about 4 inches in from either end and then used a small right angle screwdriver with a flash light propped against the heating elements (after I removed the cover plate) to see with and to give me more room to loosen just two tiny screws that attached the fuse to the motor. Voila! It works better than before.

I diagnosed the problem, as a broken arm on the actuator for the door shut switch. I jumped the switch, and dryer worked. I went to this site, found the part I needed, ordered it/received it quickly, and proceeded to do the repair. The video that THIS particular part goes for, isn't' like MY dryer. My dryer hinges in the rear. You just remove the 2 screws on either side of the control panel, (right and left), pull forward on the panel, to ease its attachment, let it lie. Then with a small plastic pry tool, pop the 2 attaching points in the front of the dryer. Front end lifts up, like a hood on a car. My roommate held hood up, while I R&R'd the switch actuator. Went back together, in reverse of my taking apart. Worked great. Thanks a bunch.

just put the new part in the door---sooo easy! THANK YOU!

I removed the two screws on the top by the lint catcher. Then, per information from this website, I pried up the top. I reached down into the dryer and removed the two screws on the broken door switch and replaced it with the new part. I am a recently widowed, 55 year old and was thrilled to find good advice, information and instructions on your website!! Simple as could be!

took the cstch reciever out, with my fingers, pushed the new one in, snap lock fit.......couldn't be better, like repairing a model T ford.......

It was a lot easier then I thought. Just watch the tutorial of how to fix it on this website and you wont have a problem.

I removed the top first followed along with removing the side bracket that holds the circuit board. I then proceeded with removing the bottom cover and front panel. I disconnected the front panel from the control board and was able to slide the front panel upward. The door and blower housing was a bit tricky to pull out without thinking I was damaging something. I then replaced all the seals and cleaned the dryer after removing the drum and belt. I also replaced the drum support rollers. Afterwards I put everything back together and had an "E1" error and I pulled the thermostat out and wiped it down from all the lint and dryer worked perfect after that. Dryer takes the right amount of time to day clothes and no more rumbling noise. The instructions videos were VERY helpful.

Unplug from electric ? outlet. Set the meter to ohm setting, check part ,no reading. Remove old part ,check new part with meter ,get a reading of 11 or more mA. Install new part and blower cover done.

I took out the 2 screws that are located on the top of dryer under the lint filter door. Popped up the whole top of dryer. Opened the dryer door to unscrew the 2 door switch screws. Took off the old broken door switch through the open dryer top and before replacing the new door switch completely I tested it by turning the dryer on and pressing the new switch against the button activator 2 find out if it works. When it did, I carefully put the door switch back so the dryer door can activate it properly and screwed in the 2 screws. Finally, I put the dryer top back down & fastened the last 2 screws under the lint filter door.

Followed the video instructions which were comprehensive, easily understood, and prefaced with a listing of necessary tools. Completely satisfied with parts and supplementary information.

Took 3 screws out used the putty knife to pry the door a part then used the pliers to remove the old door catch and then sapped the new one and put the door back together and I was was done in less than 10 min.

I followed your short video and found it very easy to do

I took off the back panel off the dryer. The idler pulley could be accessed on the bottom. It was a bit cramped but not too tough to replace.