1106012990 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Watched the videos available. Opened the top and saw tub jumping. Unplugged and removed front panel. Saw tub rollers were broken or melted. Removed tub watched more videos, and installed the felt belt I got from PartsSelect. Trouble removing the tub rollers, but finally got them off. The axles had a sticky residue which I removed with 220 grit sandpaper. I installed new rollers I had bought locally. Reassembled dryer. Worked quietly and smoothly, and it no longer shut itself down. Worked well for one day when it started.s loud noise with bumping. I found both rollers had lost their outer rim , and the tub was running on hard plastic and there was sticky residue back on the ankles. I stopped there.

I follow the instructions from the video you guys show the only issue is putting back the tensioner in place but my brother leaves next door and help me.

Used the trouble shooting tips provided as a guide and a multimeter to test and find the defective part. Testing indicated no continuity thru the high limit thermostat. I ordered the part and received it in 3 days. Had the repair done a full week before the repairman could even come to the house and saved well over $100 in repair costs and 2 weeks or longer of down time. Great website and service.

I researched the probable cause online with Google, found it to be a Thermal Fuse located within the Hotair return duct of the Dryer. A simple continuity check is all it takes to determine if the Thermal fuse was Blown. The Dryer Seal was a little trikier but not too hard either, a little glue afte cleaning the surfaces with Acetone. PartsSelect came through with the right parts at the right price! I'll be back for more parts when needed. Thanks Ken L.

This was soo much easier then I thought!!! Make sure you unplug the dryer FIRST!! I removed the bolts that held the dryer back with the socket wrench. The removed the 2 screws that held the heating element in place. Disconnecting the cords was a little harder but will come off with the pliers. There is that piece of your old heating element that you need to remove to put on the new one that was hard to get off. its being held on by a metal lip and at first I couldnt figure out how to get it off, but then I just kept bending it (the metal lip) until I was able to get the piece off of it. Then just connect the wires onto the same points that your removed them from. Replace screws and back of the dryer and WaLa!!! You've just saved yourself the price of labor for an electrician.... Trust me if I can do this YOU can... My husband thought I was crazy.. I get shocked changing light bulbs but my dryer is drying a load of clothes as we speak!!!

Pulled back off dryer as in video and followed directions. One part in the kit was not necessary. Just replaced the fuse and put it all together again and Voila! Dryer works again.

My first deduction is of course the element since its past its engineered time failure . Check with a digital ohm instrument every thing beep, the element, the cut off thermostat, the fuse etc. The only thing I did not check is the electronic dials . Like I suspect that relying on the digital beeps for shorts sometimes when the metal plates of the thermostat stop expanding and contracting due to calcification or something..it will still give you a beep. But when I use an analog ohm meter the reading is very minimal....So what I did was to order the thermostats both the cutoff and the thermal I also the fuse. The element does not show any break cause you can physically see it. Then Eureka ..the parts replaced and my wife is all smiles......plus saved a lot of buko mony..Thanks for the help

I checked the Thermal Fuse and it was okay. Then I tested the timer and it was not working. Then I ordered the timer from this site and installed it in about 30 min. The dryer is now working.

Turn off Gas, unplug electric cord, remove rear cover, remove two screws holding the lint trap to the top, raise top flip[ping to the back supporting it not to damage wiring, remove bottom front cover, remove door springs, remove front cover, disengage belt tensioner, remove drum. unclip right side roller and remove, unbolt left wheel mount from the rear and the bracket in the front, remove clips or cut off (new ones come with new clips). clean the wheel shafts, light sanding if needed, apply light coat of lithium grease. replace wheels and reassemble dryer in the reverse order from disassemble. roll drum by hand after front back on to ensure it rolls without catching. Finish and test.

tested continuity, determined thermal fuse was open. PartSelect sent a new fuse very quickly, and it was just a matter of reconnecting the wires and putting the back cover on the dryer. Started right up.

Purchased new heating element and replaced. This was the number one recommendation for the fix for my problem. I do not have any measurement devices to check any of the parts. This was trial and elimination. The old element was badly burnt. Still no heat. The second recomendation was the thermal fuse. I purchased that and replaced. Still no heat. After reading through some of the repair forums on this site I decided to try one more time and replace the thermal cut off kit. A little harder to do because it required cutting and replacing some wire ends. That was the problem. We now have heat and once again I have a happy wife! I left the new element and the fuse in. The dryer heats much faster than it did.
The repair videos on this site were very helpful. Some of the wire changes on the Thermal Cut-off Kit can be very confusing.

I watched the installation video and learned that the installation was a very easy job to do. I followed the instructions and indeed the job was really easy. Requiring only a 1/4" socket and a Phillips tip screwdriver.

Watched a couple of you tube videos, seemed simple enough. Used multimeter to test thermostats, still good. Took off the heating element, it was visually broken. Called the 800 number, the guy who answered told me how to find the model number of the dryer. He then told me the part number and it matched what I had. Ordered, 2 days later arrived, just plugged it in and reinstalled the back covering, works great!

I attempted to take the back panel off the dryer only to discover all I had to do (after removing 10 or so screws) is remove the lower base plate in the front of the dryer. I also had removed the door which turned out to be unnecessary. After removing a guard in front of the heating element (2 screws) I yanked the the element housing that contained the heating element and then disconnected the 6 wires. Using my first ever, newly bought multi meter for only $9.99 from Radio Shack, I turned the dial to the infinity section and check the element for continuency. I did this by touching the meter's two probes to the element's terminals were the wires connect. The element was fine. Then I checked the two sensors the same way. The sensor furtherest away from the element's terminals didn't have a constant signal so I assumed that that sensor was bad. Well, come to find out, one sensor is open and the other in closed... only when the temp. changes do they operate by opening and closing the current. By this time I had already ordered the part so it was too late. Surprisingly, the part came in 2 days. I ordered it Sunday night and i figured it would be sent out Monday but it was already in the air Monday morning... Great service! I replaced both sensors and the dryer works like it did when I first got it.

Unplugged Dryer.

Removed back panel & dryer hose - About 10 screws

Removed Heating element - two screws

Followed instructions for replacing old thermal cut-off with new model (this was slightly different from original equipment - wiring modification was required) All connections were detailed in the instructions. Jumper wire and new screws included in Thermal Cut-Off kit.

Cleaned lint and dust from inside dryer.

Replaced back panel and dryer hose.

Tested dryer, works like new.