DGA501F1W Kelvinator Dryer - Instructions

As others have described in more detail... I lifted the top, removed the 2 screws holding the front panel (one on each side, inside the control panel on either side - not the easiest to get at, but not too bad), popped the clips holding the front panel in place and removed it. With the front panel off, the location of the coils is obvious (lower left side). The only challenging aspect of this repair is that the 2 screws holding the coils in place are really torqued in so it was crucial to use the exactly correct size screwdriver and not let the screwdriver slip while unscrewing those screws. Actually swapping out the coils took seconds, of course they have to go in exactly the same way as the old ones. I did take a few minutes extra to vacuum out years of lint from the inside of the dryer. Overall, much easier and cheaper than I was expecting and now I know where everything is inside the cabinet.

I am a "do-it-yourselfer" despite my husbands opposition. I followed instructions from one of the posts on the site and took apart the dryer. I found the location of the rear bearing and took it out and replaced it with the new one. Easy as that. Made sure the parts looked the same. Made sure I saw how everything went together. I used a magnet to hold the ball bearing in place on the rear mount and taped the metal bracket on the outside of the dryer. Screwed it right in. Reassembled in reverse and works like a charm. To all the women out there who don't think they can do this. It's easy. Give it a try.

Disconnected power cord; lifted top using putty knife to open spring holds on the sides of the top; released front panel by removing screw from each side;removed old glide and glue; glued new piece in place; reconnected all parts and let dry overnight.

A caution to take care of sharp/rough edges when removing old felt and glide. Goof Off worked well enough along with elbow grease to remove the old glue. A stonger solvent may have worked better, but did not want fumes and residue in the area.

Fit of new glide was straightforward and fit well to the lower felt glide..

(Turns out that the squeak was primarily from the rear bearing that needed some cleaning and grease, but am glad to have replaced the worn front glide)

I raised up the top then took 4 bolts out of the front and it came off and then I slipped the belt on. Now was the fun part. I tried to put belt around the tension spring from the front of the machine. Bad mistake. So I turned the machine around and took off little plate bottom left, back side reached in and WA-LA back in commision. I took a long brush and cleaned all I could reach and put it back together. Bingo, back in business.
And I'm 71 yrs. old.

replaced bearing and shaft new belt and everything works just fine

Open the top of the dryer. Reach inside and remove 2 screws that hold the front in place. Detach the power cord inside where there is a connector. Remove the front of the dryer. That exposed the drum glide where all three nylon guides had worn off.

Peel off the old guide. Clean the surface with sandpaper. Use the supplied adhesive to glue on the new guide. Use masking tape to hold it while it dried.

Reverse the first paragraph to re-install.

So easy! I ordered the part on the website. Received it 24 hours later. And popped it in place. Good as new.

I took the new door catch out of the packaging and just snapped it in place it was easy peasy and took less time than opening the package

Have done this before - dissembled, cleaned everything, re-assembled with new parts - rear bearing, idler, and belt. Hardest part is getting the spring back on the idler pulley.
You take the top lid off, remove the front panel and then the drum. remove the access panel on the back to release the spring tension on the idler pulley, then remove the drum. Vacuum clean everything, then reassemble with new stem and bearing, new belt, and idler pulley. Test spin drum by hand - if belt comes off it's likely twisted. Put belt back on and try again. Try operating with air mode to spin drum. If belt stays on, complete re-assembling and make sure you have no screws left over!

Unhooked power,shut off gas, pulled top cover off,two Philips screws one on each side hold the front panel in.took belt off, pulled drum,than change out, flame sensor,M coils,and igniter,be careful igniter breaks very easy,I broke my new one so had to use my old one so really the problem with no heat was either the Mcoils or the flame sensor

Remove top cover and front and remove drum and install a new bearing kit and new belt.

There was a lot of screws. And I cleaned everything well. The one part was bad so I replaced them all to make sure it'll last.

As all others have said, without being redundant, I'd view post #1 or #2 for a good detailed set of instructions.

The primary issue I had was with the stainless steel ball bearing that was shipped with the kit. I couldn't figure out what it was used for, because when I removed the bearing carrier the ball fell out before I could see where the original one was located. The stainless ball bearing is a grounding ball, not a bearing. It goes on the exterior of the plastic bearing carrier/receiver.

Once I figured that part out, it was a piece of cake.

Took a little longer than other people's repairs, but I also put a new belt on and re-worked the exhaust duct for solid ducting versus flexible duct. fine-tuning the rigid duct work was a piece of cake with the tumbler out, since i could crawl right inside the chassis and make sure everything would line up (level legs, adjust elbows, etc)

First I removed the 2 screws on the back. These 2 screws hold the top cover. I also used a flat screw driver to press the 2 locks that hold the top cover, they are located in front and under the top cover . Then I removed the 2 screws that hold the front cover. After removing the front cover I replaced the drum glider and the seal-basket lower. Now my dryer is working perfectly...

/removed the lint screen & tossed in the trash, removed one screw from each side of the frame with a screw driver. Placed the New frame in place
& secured it with the screws that I removed from the old frame, placed the screen in place & that was all there was to it. The total amount of time to remove the old & replace with the new probably took 10-15 min. @ the most. I am so happy to have found the part & was able to replace it. You all are wonderful. Received it in 3 days, WOW!!