YIED7200TW10 Inglis Dryer - Instructions

Callled the service company to diagnose the problem. Watched him take machine apart. He found the problem. Told me the parts that I needed. Didnt know what they were. Went to partselect.com looked my model up and found parts and ordered. Followed same steps as repair guy: Two screws in back of machine then slide top off. Six screws in front to remove front door ( 4 screws on top 2 on bottom) Changed the thermostat and thermistor. Saved 320 dollars :)

Remove dryer covers and locate heater assembly. Removed heater assembly and checked visually if the heater coil is opened, I verified this with an ohm meter. Heater Continuity was OK. Next step I checked the heater sensors. Thermal fuse with bracket had no ohm meter reading between two terminals[open circuit]. Order part#35001193 "thermal fuse" with bracket from "partsSelect.com." Assemble back in reverse order. Please note that the dryer heater was filled with lint and needed a good cleaning.

First remove the top of this particular dryer, to get to the necessary screws. computer is located on the left side, and 3 screws frees it up. Then disconnect the wires. Unscrew the board, and replace!! That simple!! Unfortunately for me the bad computer melted part of the wire harness. I called maytag and drove them nuts untill they paid to replace the wire harness. I learned two simple lessons. Buy the cheapest appliances you can find because everything is made like crap these days, and if you must buy the more expensive appliances, get the extended warranty because everything is made like crap these days!!!!! Thanks partselect.com for the info, and discount prices!!

top and the front had to be removed to get to the fan... the thermistor that sits in the exaust fan went bad... the heat would come on for a few minutes then turn off completely not getting to clothes dry.....

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Had to pull the top off and the front of dryer with a few phillips screws and was able to get to the thermistor and I also replaced the heating coil because it was bad.The cause of the problem was because of a clogged up vent. It was a easy replacement.

had to take top off to get to the front cover screws.Then took the screws out of front cover, pulled it off then pulled the drum out. Man at the amount of lent in the buttom and in the heating element area. Well, after removing drum I found the problem with the pulley. When I got parts to put back together it took a little time and thinking to find out how the pulley an belt went together(belt came off when pulley finally melted in half)with holding drum up to see what's going on. The pulley is laying down,with drum in and belt around it put belt on motor shaft then pull pulley up vertical wrap belt coming down on motor side around pulley. Then put it all together.

Initially I remove the the back panel on the dryer to locate the heating element, but ,next to impossible to remove from this point due to mounting screw located on the blind side of the support bracket.

In order to get to these screw you will have to remove the top of the dryer which is secured with two 10mm screws in the rear. Then remove the control panel secured with four screws.

then I preceded to remove the front of the dryer secured with four screws on the top four screws around the door opening .I gently pull the front open and disconnect the door switch and lift up to remove. I was know able to gain better access to see the screws holding the element housing and support bracket. After removing the three screws I took a picture of the electrical connections for reference which came in handy for reconnection.
The spade connectors are difficult to remove and a flat blade screwdriver works best. Once the element housing is removed from the unit its just a matter of separating the two halves of the housing to gain access to the element itself.

The element is sandwiched between the two halves of the housing and is a bit tricky to reinstall.
It’s best to position the element in the upper portion of the split housing using the four securing screws and then align with the lower half . You then feed the element leads thru the receptacle and bend the securing tabs down and you are ready to reverse the take down procedure..

Issue was the heating element coil, which had broken in places and shorted itself out. I removed the top and front panels to expose the heating element's housing. Then unplugged, removed and disassembled the housing to expose the heating element (there are many videos online that explain the process). Once the heating element was replaced, the problem disappeared. Now the clothes are drying much faster than before. It is definitely worth getting the Samsung OEM part. Many reviews on generic equivalents were negative, despite how attractive the low price may look at first. PartSelect has never failed to impress with quick shipping and quality products.

this site had a video that documented the process. The cabinet in the video was a little different than mine, but close enough to get me through the process. Unlike the video, my dryer was totally plugged with lint and I suspect that cut the airflow and caused the heater element to overheat and burn out. I cleaned all the lint and replaced the heater element just as the video documented. While I had the dryer apart, I lubed the drum rollers with Lithium grease and once assembled it worked perfect.

Dryer would not start but electronics were working.

Pulled top of dryer off; noticed the belt was loose but not broken.
Went in through the back (1 screw and removed the exhaust pipe/plate); noticed the wheel was broken and thus the belt had fallen off.

Ordered replacement wheel/arm.
One screw to remove old one, one screw to install new one...tentioned the belt. Dryer was good as new.

I looked up the model number online, searching for the heating element. PartSelect not only had the easiest listing online to find the part, but they also offered a very user-friendly video to show you how to make the repair. The price for the part was roughly 10% less than any of the others listed online.

The part arrived in a few days, and I watched the video a few more times before deciding to tackle the project. I followed the video on a laptop sitting next to the dryer. It made the repair so easy. I was done in an hour and took the time to clean all the lint and debris from inside the dryer. I also cleaned the dryer vent from both inside and outside. The dryer works like brand new.

Your videos are that little extra that will keep me buying again and again.

First I was told by the maytag repair man that the motor was shot and it would be 467 dollars to repair. Since I didn't have that kind of money I decided to take it apart to see if I could replace the motor myself. Once I had it apart I saw the part that held the motor in place was broken off and the motor was out of place causing it too shut itself off. Once I figured it all out it took about 2 minutes to replace the less than 6 dollar part! Thanks partSelect!!!

Self with you tube
app thanks.

This repair is easy. The only drag to this repair is you need to almost completely dismantle the dryer just to get to it. So keep track of your screws.........Look on you tube for videos to dismantle the dryer, you will need to take this down to the drum to change....Once I replaced the pulley, it was about 30 minutes later the dryer was operational again.