NWSR473GV0AA Hotpoint Dryer - Instructions

Initially purchased just the plastic slides, but when I opened the dryer I found the top drum bearing was smashed and the plastic was basically gone in a whole section, so I then ended up ordering the bearing as well. If you hear the loud squeaking, just buy the top drum bearing and the 4 slides (two white and two dark green). It is an easy repair and the squeaking sound is gone.

took off top of dryer, took out 2 screws so front of dryer could be removed, replaced bearing,slides and felt seal

i first popped off the top of te dryer after removing the two screws in frotn when you open the door. I then removed the two screws holding the front together. after tilting the front out i was able to place the slides in without having to pull of the front entirely.

Took the top of the dryer off by removing two philips screws in front. Removed two screws holding the front of the dryer on. Pulled the front out enough to reveal the worn drum slides. Replaced them. Reassembled.

We removed the top of the the dryer and then removed the front part. Then put the traps in place, put the other parts of the dryer back on, and turned the dryer back on. Just as simple as that. No extra fees.

First I removed the 2 screws that hold the lid down. Then I pulled the lid off. Then I removed the 2 screws that hold the front of the dryer in place. Then I lifted the drum a little and pulled the front cabinet out a little so I could see the drum slides. I removed the bad drum slides and installed the new ones. I then put everything back together and turned on the dryer. The squeeky noise was gone.

Repair was VERY easy - 4 screws total! Used google to find a video online that showed the steps.

r/r parts unit runs great

pulled off the top, pulled off the front then replaced the plastic that was supporting the front side of the drum. fairly easy to replace although the little plastic 'slides' (you need 4 of them)

I followed the directions from the previous post. It was much easier than described. I got the part, removed 4 screws, removed the top, pulled the front and replaced the part. It was all together again in 15 minutes. Dryer sounds great again! I'm so glad I didn't call a repair man!

I ordered and replaced the front and rear bearings, including the slides that go on the front bearing. Most of this was un-necessary; replacing the slides would have been sufficient, and much easier to do. Two of the old slides were worn completely away.

I followed the varied instructions out there for getting the dryer open. WATCH the videos on uTube; I took out more screws than needed on first attempt -- which isn't a big deal but took me longer than it should have to pull it apart. It appeared the grinding was coming from the dryer bearings due to some abrasion I could see and worn front slides, so I replaced the front slides (4) and the rear bearing. The kids helped by crawling inside the drum to tighten the new bearing bolts (just for fun). When I put it back together it was making a somewhat different grinding noise. It wouldn't make any noise until I put the belt AND front cover on and then it would make a periodic (about every 10 degrees) grind when I rotated the drum; I took it apart and the grinding would stop even if I rotated the blower by hand. Put it together, the grind would start .... It took me awhile to figure out that the blower retaining bolt had come loose so the plastic blower was grinding on the metal cover. CHECK THE BLOWER RETAINING BOLT visible from the front with the dryer door/cover off -- it's not obvious that it's loose by looking at it since the retaining clip still sits over the blower shaft even when it's loose. You might even see small nicks in the blower fan blade. It's super quiet now.

Dryer would turn on when you pushed the "on" button, but as soon as you let go, it would turn off. Found the plastic door switch cracked (from slamming door closed). Unplugged the dryer. Unscrewed the two screws inside the top of the door to unfasten the top panel. Took the top panel off. Then unscrewed the two screws on the side to unlatch the front panel. Used plyers to take the 3 wires off the switch and slid the switch through the front of the door. Juat remember where the wires go. Then inserted new switch and connected the wires. Vacuumed out the dryer and reassembled. It took about 20 minutes and was easy! If I can do it, you can!!!

Faulty Door switch. Dryer would heat up so I knew it wasn't thermostat or element related.

followed instructions that came with kit. The problem was the instructions were not very clear with regard to the "type" of burner. the "A" type with the slot is explained but the "B" without the slot wasen't clearly explained. Even that wasen't too bad (I had to re-do that part), But you need to be 20 years old to see the damned print. I had to use my reading glasses AND a magnifying glass to read them. Also with the "B" type burner, which I have, you simply install the limiter part and you don't need (can't) adjust it.