DLB1550BPL Hotpoint Dryer - Instructions

Removed the top, four screws under the front inside the open door. Then the removed the front, two screws inside at top by drum and two screws on bottom. Then pulled out the drum, from there I was able to get to the bearing that was bad. Mine was a older model than the instructions showed that came with my repair parts but it was colse enough to get the job done. Your website is AWESOME!!! The entire experience was wonderful and made my repair as painless as possible. I have already recomended it to my friends, keep up the great work.

First of all unplug the dryer, move it to a location that you have room to work around it. Remove the top and then take the two screws out that are on the inside of the dryer close to the top and then loosen the two bottom front screws only. Remove the front of the dryer and then look in the back of the dryer in the center of it and there is a square hole with a cover, remove the cover and behind it is a c-clamp, remove it. At this time release the tension on the dryer's belt and then pull the drum out towards the front of the dryer. Once this is done you'll be able to see the heater coils. You have to remove the bolts that the wires are attached to and cut the wire so you can pull the old coils through the glass rings to get the old coil out. Open your package and have a 48" yardstick or a tape measure and stretch the coils to the lengths in the instructions. Thread the new coils through the glass holders and then you have to remove the three heater wires that go through the wall of the ring so you can connect the new wires to the new bolts provided with your kit. One idea is to take a picture with your smart phone before you take anything off if it seems you can't remember what when where so you can see how the wires and bolts go back together. Once you have the bolts and wires connected you just reverse the process and put the dryer back together. *********** If I knew what I know now I would order a few of the glass holders because two of mine were burnt and I would have replaced them if I had them; I'd buy 4 to 6 of them to make sure I had enough.

I got to supervise - my son did it for me!!!! Went very well!

I removed the screws holding the top on and screws holding the front panel and rear access panel. I then removed the 3 screws holding the drum. I proceeded to take the belt off then lift the drum out. I replaced the heater coil and then the slides. I reassembled the dryer and dried the towels that were in the washer. I saved $20 by ordering from Part Select and not going through the local repair store, not to mention how much they would have charged to do what I did. I’m not a pro at fixing things but can hold my own. Thanks Part Select I will order again from you if I need a part!

I looked on the internet for instructions to take the dryer apart,took the parts out one at a time ,and replaced them.It was easy and it made the dryer quiet again.I could see the obvious wear on the parts.I was happy to save the money a new dryer would cost.

Opened door and found recessed screws that screw into the top of the dry and removed them and then the front removed very easy. Then took of the plate on the back of the dryer to get to the pulley that the drive belt was on and took the belt off the pulley. The dry drum then slid out very easy, there was 2 of use which helped with the ease of getting the drum out. We replace the bearing and the idler pulley wheel. Vaccummed the lent out and then put it back together. Now it is squeek free.

Watched a video online on how to replace the belt, it pretty much told me what to look for to get the drum out. Followed the instructions sent with the bearing kit and removed the old bearing assembly. Ran the screws supplied with the kit into the bearing assembly before I installed it. This was a tip I got off PartsSelect website. Running the screws in first is a must! Had my wife hold the assembly in place while I ran the screws in. That part of the job is the only time you need an extra set of hands. Put the dryer back together and it works like a quiet champ now.

I love the Partsselect.com youtube videos. The man in those videos rocks!!! I did the repair of my rear drum bearing kit exactly as he showed me in his video and it was perfect. I have spread the word on facebook and around work about Partselect.com and friends and coworkers are already checking it out. Hey, everyone loves a good thing. I suggest that you do not be afraid, you CAN do it. Tear that baby apart and save yourself some money.

Followed an online website, removed the top, front, two rear access panels, disassembled the spring clip from the rear of the drum, took the belt off of the motor, removed the drum, took the rear bearing support out, replaced the bearing and reassembled the dryer.

The part received had about 6" of the screen not bonded to the frame. I used clear epoxy and a 1/8" dia. dowel wrapped in saran wrap. after applying the epoxy to the screen/frame interface, the wrapped dowel was clamped to the frame. After the epoxy cured I removed the fixture and peeled off the saran wrap. The fix was a complete success and was undetectable. Your support rep. was excellent and I will use your company anytime that I need parts. Thank you. Dave Hathaway.

Actually, my boyfriend did the repair by taking off the top and back of the dryer to access the drum and belt he replaced the belt and put the dryer back together
We are greatful for your service and really happy we didn't have to drive all over to find the part.

Started with removal of rear inspection plate on rear of drier,rotated drier drum by hand to look for any visible problems. Found that drive belt with age had lost sections of teeth and every time the bad sections would go past motor they would "thump".
1. Removed belt from tensioner. Done simply by moving tensioner to unload belt.
2. Slipped belt off motor drive and moved belt to front of drum.
3. Opened drier door and removed 4 screws from under the lid or top of drier ,raised lid for access to belt once belt had been slid to front of drum.
4. (steps 4 and 5 are the hardest parts)Worked drive belt between drum and felt insulators keep in mind there are many stamped steel pieces and sharp edges can be present.
5. Removed belt by feeding a small section past felt and drum and worked rest out from frt. top of drier.
6. Installed new belt in reverse order as removal.
This was done without aid of instruction manual and by someone having major back surgery 4 months earlier. No idea how much this saved me but the price of the belt and time and effort involved made it woth my while I'm sure.

It was simple to get drum out. I took all screws holding top and door out with out problems, then released the drive belt. It took some wiggling to get the drum out. I then was able to get at the rear elements. Taking the wires off the thermostat came off with a little persuasion. Removing shaft from drum took some stretching as I was doing the work by myself. I would suggest that a helper be used for the removal and replacement of the shaft. Reassembly was easy. Just reverse of the above.

replaced rear drum bearing kit Still makes the same noise

There were no tools required. I simply pulled out the old filter, compared it to the new filter, for size and shape. Then simply placed the new lint filter in place of the old one.