NVL333EY0WW Hotpoint Dryer - Instructions

My husband replaced the rotary start switch that we bought. However, the dryer still would not start. He then tested each remaining switch/dial (before we spent more money on parts) to see if the dryer would start if the electrical connection by-passed that part. None of the top panel switches was the culprit. Then he pulled the door switch. The dryer worked with the switch out, but still connected. He reset each wire, put the door switch back in place, and it failed again. He pulled the switch, added electrical tape to all the connections, and put it back. The dryer works fine now.

Watch the videos for replacing the belt. The one by Kenmore is the most accurate even though it isn't GE -- the mechanisms are the same. Here is the link to the one I found most helpful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G2wTmfurT5o

First: You don't need to pull the washer/dryer out at all. Leave it in place. You can put the belt around the drive shaft and get the tension pully in place by feel and inspect your work with a flasklight,

Second: There is absolutely no reason to spend $70 on a rubber belt. Other places sell it as cheaply as 10 dollars. Shop around -- the actual part is not at all impressive and should not be priced this high.

took the top off, then the front,there 2 screws that hold the front on. there's a yellow thing on the front took that off, it is held on with one screw. on the back of the dryer on the bottom is a metal plate take that off, to get to the belt take that off. then there' 3 screws in the drum, take them off ,then you can slid the drum out. then take 2 screws off the bearing bracket, that's it. easy

*****I HIGHLY RECOMMEND buying both bottom felt and top felt with glides and replacing them as a pair. Do it now!!****

First I removed the screws on the top of the control panel and lifted the control panel free. Next I pried the top cover off the drier. Reaching down inside the drier, I removed 2 screws holding the front panel in place (one on each side of the drum, screw heads are INSIDE the appliance) Then the front panel popped off toward the front, leaving the drum dangling inside the cabinet. I removed the old top felt and glides one piece) which had nothing left to them. I used a rag soaked with Acetone and a putty knife to remove the old adhesive and clean the mating surface. Following the supplied instructions (that came with the part) I glued the new piece in place. I reassembled the dryer and tested it out - I recommend giving all internal air ducts a good vacuuming while the dryer is apart - and everything seemed OK for a week. Then another article of clothing fell prey to the dryer, becoming lodged between the drum and front panel again. I suspect the culprit is the space BELOW the drum where the bottom felt is worn much more than the brand new felt just installed. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND buying both bottom felt and top felt with glides and replacing them as a pair.

My wife was attempting to start a load of laundry when the start knob came off in her hand. I figured the inside of the knob had broken loose and the stem from the rotary start switch would be sticking out, well the stem had broken off flush and the knob was fine. After ordering a replacement, I jerry rigged the broken one with a large screw driven into it and put it back in place, worked great, just had to put a screwdriver into the screw and turn it to get the dryer to start. I felt it was fine to stay that way but the wife insisted we install the new one to put the knob back in place. The new switch arrived very quickly and went into without a problem, just four screws to remove the panel, two wire connections and was working again.

Hardest part was getting the top off which ended up being quite easy, once I knew how. At the front of dryer, between the top and the cabinet, there are two spring clips that hold the top to the bottom. I could feel them with the putty knife but wasn't sure how to release them. Push on them with the blade of the stiff putty knife ... push hard and they will release. When the top was off I could see the screws that held the front. I unscrewed those, had easy access to the front glide that needed to be replaced. Pulled the old one off, followed the directions to glue the new one on, gave it about an hour to dry, reassembled and away we went. No more snagging.

Removed four allen head screws to expose inside of panel. Used flat blade screwdriver to raise spring retainer and turned switch counter clockwise to remove.

installation exactly how your directions told me on the computer

Removed top panel from dryer. Unplugged the 2 wires for swithch, rotated swith, and removed. Reversed the process. Put parts back together.

I like to fix , i have time and i just give me the chance to try , and i did it , i wish to pay less for the parts , but was a good feeling when the problem fixed

Lifted top and removed front panel and cleaned old glue off. Put new glue on put seal used spring loaded cloth pins to hold till glue dried

Squeaking was coming from the back of the drum, not the glides. The hardest part was trying to figure out how to pull the drum out. With a little extra tug, the back pin of the drum lifted out of the socket. That was the cause of the sqeak. Just cleaned it up and added some grease and good as new. I noticed the front glides were worn and replaced it.

I turned off the power, unscrewed the 4 screws from the top of the dryer. I then opened it and turned the switch that was in there counterclockwise exactly as utube video said to do. I then took off the two wires from the old switch. The rotary start switch fix right in where the old one was. I put the panel back together, put on the old knob and turned the power back on! It took less than 15 minutes from start to finish! If I can do it anyone can! Joanne Klinkhammer Cecil, Wisconsin

It took longer to vaccume the lint out of the machine than to change the part.

The part replacement is done without any tools.

My wife could have done it

I ordered the rear bearing kit from the local supplier here in Marsh Harbour, Abaco the Bahamas. Delivery for the kit was 3 to 4 weeks from my local supplier.NOT PARTSELECT.
While waiting I found this site and after reading the VERY helpful instructions from your customers, I realised that I would probably need additional parts, top and bottom front felt seals, maybe a new drive belt.
I ordered these online and had the parts deliverd to a friends address in West Palm Beach Florida. The parts arrived in about 2 days. My wife was already there and brought the parts back.

Installation was very straight forward. Read the other installation reports and you will not have a problem.
The only thing I can add is, DO NOT LOOSE THE SMALL BALL BEARING. I did and it took me about an hour to find it.
My suggestion is to do a dry run installation of the bracket WITH OUT the small ball bearing. Tape the backing plate?that keeps the ball breaing inplace to the outside of the back panel with duct tape so that the screw hole will line up. Once this is done put some grease (Supplied with the kit) in the hole on the nylon bracket and attach with the two screws, do not over tighten. Grease up the area where the rear bearing shaft support will sit.

Installation of the rear bearing shaft support was straight forward. This is on the dryer drum. Extra hands are must for this.

I was very pleased with Partselct.
Dryer works like new.