DLB2650ABL Hotpoint Dryer - Instructions

The job is simple once you know how to remove the front panel. The steps are as follows:
1. disconnect the power cord.
2. remove 4 Phillips-head screws under the lip of the front panel that secure it to the top panel (#1 point Phillips-head screw driver)
3. swing the top panel up, it is hinged in the rear.
4. making note of the connection points of the color-coded wires, disconnect the wires to the lamp socket and door switch (I used a felt-tipped pen on the inside of the front panel to mark the connection points, "R" for red, etc.)
5. remove the upper 2 hex-head screws from inside of the front panel (5/16" nut-driver)
6. loosen the lower 2 hex-head screws (5/16" nut-driver) accessible from outside the panel (you only have to loosen them since the bottom mounting tabs are slotted)
7. slightly lift (to clear above mentioned lower tabs) and tilt the front panel toward you. Swing the front panel to the right as though you were opening a door and position so it does not fall.
8. remove 10 hex-head screws from the black lower rear access panel (5/16" nut-driver) and remove the broken drive belt. Note that the narrow black panel securing the power cable can remain in place.
9. at this point take advantage of the situation and vacuum out the years of lint and dust you could not reach before.
10. stand in front of the dryer, lift the dryer drum slightly and slip the new belt (rib side down) around the drum. Position the belt near the rear of the drum along the wear-mark left by the old belt.
11. go to the back and place the belt in the motor's drive-belt pulley, making sure the ribbed side of the belt mates with the ribs in the pulley.
12. position the tension wheel so that the it takes up the slack in the drive belt. Note the flat side of the drive belt will mate with the flat of the tension wheel.
13. spin the dryer drum a few turns by hand to make sure the drive belt lines up properly with the pulley.
14. reassemble the dryer by reversing the above steps, starting at step 8.

The repair for the average untrained mechanicslly inclined " first off google directions/instruction picture step by step " we took off the wrong part which made this job difficult there is a part on the back that was removed prior to guided directions, called parts select they are awesome"our belt was delivered the next day on a 3 day weekend I was suprised second correct part sent anyone who took on this job , they will appreciatte all this . the belt was fairly easy to repair just do as directed follow guidelines. difficulty detaching a part that never should be"pain in the a" order your part from this company they rock" and picture guide and specific direction guideline @ this dryer has well outlived the money spent still kicking strong after several years of use hotpoint dryer

I was unsure of how to disassemble the machine to reach the belt, but a YouTube video gave me confidence. Thanks to Partselect.com, the great customer service, and fast delivery. I had my dryer up and running really fast! The process was really not difficult at all and it gave me a chance to vacuum out years of trapped lint. I am so happy to have saved hundreds of dollars, not having to buy a new dryer.I would urge other folks to tackle these relatively simple repairs, the right parts are a phone call away. Frank

I suspected the idler pulley shaft was worn. I found the repalcement pulley on parts select web site. finding the part was very easy and delivery was very quick. After removing the dryer from the wall,I removed the access panel in the rear which exposed the motor, belt, and pulley. After removing the belt from the pulley, I removed the pully assembly from the dryer. I removed the keeper retaining ring on the pulley and installed the new pulley with the new parts supplied. The new pulley assembly was then ready for re-installation.

My General Electric clothes dryer (model DDE7206RAL) was running to hot. I went on the internet and goggled “General Electric clothes dryer gets to hot”. This led me to the “partselect.com” website which listed two possibilities for a fix along with a schematic of the dryer. I ordered both parts: 1) high limit thermostat – part WE4X584 which is listed as #507 on the schematic and 2) Thermostat- limit 145-15 listed as part #315 on the schematic. Replacing these parts is an easy fix. It took me about an hour to replace both parts. I can do it a second time in 15 minutes.

I only needed two tools and a flashlight to replace both parts. I unplugged the dryer. I opened up the dryer door to access the four screws that held the hinged dryer top. I used a Craftsman TORX T15 screwdriver to take out the four screws then lifted the hinged top to expose the #507 high limit thermostat (back right on the exposed drum). The thermostat is designed so that it can not be replaced in the wrong position. This thermostat is held in place with two ¼ inch screws. I took out the old thermostat and then replaced the electrical contacts one by one as I removed them from the old thermostat to the new thermostat and then replaced the new sensor with the ¼ screws. I then closed the dryer lid and replaced the four screws that secured the lid.

The part #315 (thermostat-limit 145-15) is accessed from where you put the cloths into the dryer. The thermostat part that senses the temperature are exposed inside the drum but the actual location of the sensors are underneath the lint filter and covered by part #305. Part #315 is held in place by two screws located on the inside of the drum.
Open the dryer door and remove the lint screen. Stick your head in the dryer to see two thermostats sensors (parts #315 and #316). Part #315 is the one on the left as you look down at the two thermostats sensors. You will see four screws inside the dryer drum. Take out only the top two screws inside the dryer using the TORX T15 screwdriver. Then the cover (part #305 on the schematic) can be lifted out from under where the lint screen had been positioned. REMOVE ANY LINT FROM THE EXPOSED screws which are held in place by part #311 clips on the schematic. Then remove the bottom left screw (the other screw holding the #315) from inside the drum while holding the #311 clip located underneath the lift screen ( I suggest that you put a piece of duct tape on the #311 clip to keep it from falling as you loosen up the screw from inside the dryer drum.) The old thermostat is now free and can be lifted out from underneath where the lint screen had been positioned. The thermostat #315 has a marking on the original and the replacement. I just replaced the new with the same relative markings positions that were on the old #315 and the same for the electrical connections. The hardest part of this replacement was putting in the new #315 bottom left screw. I had to put a piece of tape on the #311 clip to start the replacement of the bottom left screw then I removed the tape after the bottom left screw had been replaced. After that was in place it was just a matter of replacing the cover (part #305- the top two screws from inside the drum) and the lint screen.

The dryer worked perfectly the next run of dirty clothes. $27 plus postage. What a deal.

I replaced the three thermostats first, but still not action on the unit. I then replaced the timer and the machine came to life. It was helpful with the explosion diagrams as you could see what would be needed and where the hidden screws might be. All in all, it went pretty smoothly with common tools.

remove two bolts in back on the top two corners. four tiny screws right inside the door. the top comes off with the wires still attached. looking down from the back on the left side of the dryer there is the high limit thermostat two wires and two tiny bolts and it is out; it is very tight. The thermostat- limit 145-15 is located in the lint trap. top is off looking down the front of the dryer there are two bolts remove those pull up on the whole front move it off to the side open door remove the ring by tiny screws and lint trap. you can see the nose of the thermostat remove three screws that is holding a metal cover on and thermostat in place. Remember don`t lose a little metal clip for one of the screws it is tight space. Put everything back together and your done

the switch was stuck couldn't get the switch to pop out to stop the dryer when opening the door light inside also wouldnt go on. it only took a few min to take it the switch and replace the new switch the light now works also stops when opening the door it made my day easierhow easy it was to fix it. only take to use a pliers and screw driver.

unscrewed and lifted top of dryer put belt around drum closed top put belt around motor pulley and belt tensioner and finished.( remember to unplug unit before working on it.)

Pop off the old, pop on the new. I did it with one hand, the 'hard' part was putting the access panal back on.

Based on the symptom (drum not turning), I figured that the belt was shot. I found a video on YouTube that described how to fix it. I also found directions here on this site on how to fix it! Here's what I did: step1: there were two screws holding the top on. took them off and the top swung up, exposing the drum and broken belt. step2: took off the two screws holding the front on. tipped the front forward so I could get the new belt around the drum. step 3: took the back plate off (10 screws). had to remove the exhaust tube first. cleaned out all the lint with the shop vac. there was plenty of lint everywhere. step 4: put the belt onto the motor pulley wrapping around the tension pulley. step5: put everything back together and plugged it in. everything worked fine. it took longer to vacuum all the lint out than it did for the actual repair.

removed four screws holding top. Swing back top to expose thermostat. emove two push on connectors and two self tapping screws. Instal new thermostat

I have had this happen to another ge dryer, so I had an idea what was wrong. After taking the 4 torx screws out from under the front lip of dryer top, lifting the top back (like opening the hood of your car) in the back right corner is where the high limit tstat is. To verify the problem (dryer already unpluged of course) pull the two wires off the terminals of tstat, connect them together, wrap bare parts w/ electrical tape. Let top down & plug dryer in-- it started& ran fine. Got online and ordered replacement tstat (it arrived in 2 days-- great!) unscrewed the two 1/4" hex screws holding tstat on, installed new part. On to bigger and better things ! Dryer working fine.

I had to take the top panel off of the dryer which is 2 screws inside the dryer door jam. Then the front panel had to come off which was 2 screws inside the dryer above the tumbler. One on each side. Then it lifts off of two hooks at the bottom. Then the left panel (left if you are looking at the front of the dryer) had to come off which was a few screws on the back, a few on the front, and one on the bottom. Once I had the panels off, I unscrewed the blower wheel which is one screw. I took the blower wheel cabinet loose but didn't remove it. There is a metal collar that holds the motor to the bracket. Pull it off from the top. Unplug all the wires attached to the motor. I took a picture of the wire connections with my phone for reference with the new motor. Remove the belt. The motor should pull out towards you. The new motor comes with a pulley. Put the pulley on the motor and tighten locking screw. Put new motor in dryer and replace the metal collar. Connect all wire connections. Reconnect the blower wheel and tighten all screws to the blower wheel housing. Now, I plugged the dryer back in and tested it without reattaching the belt. Know that if you do it this way, the dryer will not stay on because there is a relay switch that is engaged only when the belt is on the pulley and there is tension on the belt tensioner. When the dryer motor worked properly, I replaced the belt and put all the panels back on. Plugged it up and it worked beautifully.

Change the coil by removing the cotter pin around drum in the back I accidently removed the 3 star bits and the front and it was hard getting back together. The coils are easy to change, but found that the coil wasn't the issue it was the cyclical thermosat underneath the lint catcher in front. The part (heater coil) works better than the older one, so I guess it wasn't a complete screw up. I read up on a few others and think I should have check thermostat first oops. good luck