DG27S6WPMA Gibson Dryer - Instructions

removed the two screws on the top at back of dryer then pryed up the front of the top, then removed the screws at the top of the front and pryed off the front of the dryer, the thermostat was at the bottom below the drum held on by two screws and had two wires on it. Fairly easy to replace but it did not solve my problem.

Unplug dryer.
Put up the top of the dryer at the front, remove 2 screws holding the front of the dryer to the sides and remove front of dryer. Locate ignition coil on lower left. Remove 2 screws and bracket over the two ignition coils. Replace coils and reassemble in reverse.
Everybody's happy.

Removed burner, unpluged 2 plugs on coils. Removed 2 screws, replaced coils, pluged 2 plugs to coils replaced 2 screws. Reinstaled burner. Dryer works great.

I tested continuity on parts like burner (ok) then on solenoids (not ok) timer (ok) I visited several websites and found the AppliancePartsPros.com site with FREE repair forum and found valuable advice. Then ordered my parts at Parts Select and were delivered 3 later at my front door.
Now a days you almost can forget to work on all the electronics in a wasmachine and dryer, unless you're a electronic guru.
THks.

Unplugged the electricity, turned off the gas, then pop open the top of the dryer. Removed the two screws and pulled the front of the dryer off. Removed the two screws that locked down the two m series ignition coils. Put it back together and all things worked great.

parts arrive just like they said they would .had parts installed with in 15 minutes was drying clothes thank you your advice was perfect.

Followed instructions and the repair went very smooth from start to finish. From getting tools out of tool tray to putting them back it took 15 minutes.

Popped the top... disconnected wiring... dropped the front... replaced coils... reversed sequence... done deal. No hassle, no worries, easy as 1-2-3!

Very easy fix on this system as described in other reviews. Simply unplug, lift top, remove two retaining screws on the dryer face, remove face from front of drum. Locate both coils at the lower left corner of the gas valve assembly.

There was a small plate and 2 screws holding the 2 coils. I just removed the screws, unplugged the 2 coils, plugged the new ones in and put the dryer back together.

After reading other peoples problems i decided it must be the coils after looking at the picture of the part I looked at the dryer to find were the part was. it was right in front behind the inspection cover. so i order the part. it came very fast.these are not the first parts i have purchased from Partselect.the web site is newer now and i am glad because reading other peoples problems help me decide what was wrong with mine.PS Always clean every thing inside the dryer!! 15-20 min job one screw driver! (19 year old unit works fine)thanks to Partselect!!!

My dryer was heating up very briefly blowing hot air initially then cool. I have a stacking washer/dryer set (2002). I initially turned off the gas valve at the wall, ran the dry for several minutes to clear the gas line, then unplugged the power. I was then able to pop the top using a flathead screw driver, securely prop it open, unhook the wiring harness to the front panel, unscrew the two front panel screws, and remove the entire front without having to unstack the units. From there, you remove the two screws holding the bracket over the coils (2 of them), remove the electrical connectors attached to both coils and replaced them with the new ones. I then replaced all brackets, screws, and such (you'll need to lift the drum when putting the front back on and make sure it is lined up), plugged it back into power and turned on the gas to test the unit which worked perfectly. The 62% of the time seems to be an accurate figure as nothing else had to be done to the unit. Pretty easy stuff...good luck.

I decided to replace the cycling thermostat. I disconnected power, used the putty knife to push back spring type retainers underneath the top and
lifted up the front edge of the top and pushed it upward to rest on the back hinges.
Next, I unscrewed two sheetmetal screws on the edges of the front panel.
Then I supported the front panel upward while releasing the push type spring clamps before pulling it forward off the drum. I was able to swing
the front panel open from the left side and gently open it while watching one wire that was connected to it from the right side.
Then I was able to take the terminals off the thermostat noting which way they were connected.
I unscrewed the two screws holding the thermostat to the fan housing and replaced it with a new one. I assembeled from the front panel bacwards. until the top was back down.
Upon testing the unit I found out that the problem was not the cycling thermostat.
I plan to investigate the timer circuit that the thermostat controls next.
One can take out the thermostat and test it for cycling by removing it and checking terminals with ohmmeter x1 range and heating and cooling it with a hairdryer. Meter will read zero when thermostat is cold and closed. It will read infinity
or high resistance when it is open and hot.

This repair took about fifteen minutes. I popped the top of the dryer using a flat-blade screwdriver, leaned it back against the back wall, unscrewed two screws holding the front panel, removed the five electrical spade contacts after marking which went where, swung out the panel and lifted it off. After that, it was a simple job to unscrew the plate holding the solenoids in, at the bottom left of the unit. I replaced the solenoids, closed everything up and now the dryer is working better than it has in the last three years, or so. If your dryer is heating sporadically, the odds are 85%, or more, that a solenoid swap-out will correct the problem.

pushed screwdriver into the two clips between the top and front to release the connection. took off front. at the bottom front left side, took out screws to access parts that needed to be replaced. put everything back together. dryer works like new. easy.