DE27T3WVFX Gibson Dryer - Instructions

I took the new screen out of the box. I removed the old lint screen from the dryer, and I put in the new screen. Real simple!

Found the promblem as described at this site while looking for diagrams for the dyer. Repair went as described. Once I removed the old upper drum glide I used acetone to remove old glue. Cleaned up fast and easy. Once installed I let cure for about an hour and then reassembled. Let it cure for about an hour more and then I used the dyer. I could feel that the gap around the front of the drum was again narrow so that my finger tip would not slide into a grove. So far so good.

Removed two screws in the inside of the front after opening the top by releasing the two clips. Front comes off of bottom clips easily. Drum can be removed and repairs made. Takes less than 30 minutes Be sure to remove door switch wire & unplug unit first. Drum belt can be re-installed easily thru the back access panel.

Followed the instructions in the video. It was very helpful.

New screen and holder came in, removed screws holding the holder in place and reinstalled new one & dropped the screen in place.

Took front door off, top off, frunt off, removes screws holding rear bearing pivot, and then removed drum. repainted bearing surface on drum, installed parts, let paint dry for a day and reassembled.

Moved dryer out where I could get to all sides, then pulled top off, then unscrewed the front panel. The drum lifted out of it's ball bearing assembly in the back with a little force. Then it slid out fairly easy.

I replaced the rear bearing assembly, the bottom drum glide strip, the top drum glide and the vent seal all at the same time. The glue for the glide strips took about an hour to set up and I used clothes pins every 4-6 inches as suggested by someone else here on this site. Then I vaccuumed out the entire dryer body, vent pipes and every nook and cranny.

I put everything back as it had come out and then put the dryer back in it's place. Plugged it back in and it's as quiet as when it was new. Total time of project was about 1:45.

My husband took the front panel off. We scaped the old seals off. Used the adhesive that came with the drum glide and replaced both parts. No more ripped and stained clothes, that easy!

Popped the topped using a putty knife to free two clips in front. Remove two screws now accessible on the front inside panel. Remove two wires to door switch. Remove rear access door, two screws. Remove belt from tensioner in rear and remember or take picture of how it goes. Lift barrel slightly and pivot front panel out of the way. Lift barrel free from ball socket in rear. Lift out from front panel area. R & R kit and put back in reverse order.

removed front of drier , removed rear access panel, replaced the belt. reinstalled front of drier and rear access panel

After watching the video that explained and showed how to replace the bearing assembly, installation was a breeze. Great company to do business with. Ordered the part and had it in two days, and the dryer was working again asap. Thanks PartSelect
PS this dryer is 23 years old.

I removed the top lid, then removed the front panel, to expose top and bottom drum glides attached to panel, then using a carpenter shisel, and cutting knive scraped away the old worn out glides, wiped clean with acetone the area were the new glides were being cemented. all of this thanks to couple of customers that had the same issues on their dryer, and documented step by step their own way to have this done, I just followed thru their experiences.

Removed top panel - disconnected harness from front panel- removed front panel- removed access door to belt tensioner on back panel - took belt off tensioner- removed drum removed upper felt with worn glide pads from front panel - removed most of old glue from panel (small file) and glued on new felt strip with glide pads - let sit to cure removed three phillips screws holding rear brg to the drum and removed brg - removed two phillips screws from rear panel holding plastic bracket, supporting bracket and back clip to the rear panel and replaced with new (use a drop of grease to hold the little ball brg in place during installation, make sure you don't loose it) install new brg to the drum (since they are self cutting screw difficult to install throught he drum, I "pre-cut" one of the threads then installed the rear brg to the drum, screw driver was of ratched type with a long extension - filled the plastic bracket with the grease - installed drum and front panel - tensioned the belt - installed top panel and access rear panel - done - I used the opprtunity to vaccum the interior of the dryer, lot of lint ----------------------------------------------------------------- there is a plastic guide on top of the heating elements which is burnt and should have been replaced but I could not find it in a catalogue. Anybody any idea? Also instructions for glide say to check the paint on the drum, what if it is damaged or gone?

Followed the video on partselect web page.

I followed others instructions on this site to disassemble but felt confident since 2-3 years prior I had replaced the felt top/bottom guides around the drum and the drum belt. The video on this page is also helpful

1) Pop the top with a putty knife
2) Unscrew two screws that hold the front onto the dryer frame
3) Lift front from two clips at bottom of dryer
4) Release tension from belt (unscrew/remove rear access plate)
4) Lift drum up and forward out of dryer
5) Unscrew drum bearing 3x screws from inside of drum
5) Remove the drum bearing holder
6) Pre-thread the rear drum bearing!!! Very important. Thread by screwing a supplied screw slowly through the pre-drilled holes.
7) Attach drum bearing
8) Attach new rear holder/cup & ball bearing (ball bearing goes on outside of plastic cup)
9) Use lots of supplied grease, espeiclly helpful that it acts as a temporary glue holding the ball bearing in place
10) Reverse steps to assemble

I'm glad I bought the entire rear bearing kit as I found the bearing holder had completely worn through and partially melted the metal cup. The ball bearing was missing - gone!

Also found that the power cord had partially melted, so I replaced that from the hardware store. Scary.