GDG546RES1 Gibson Dryer - Instructions

Removed the door and replace the upper glide and the lower seal. The repair was easy.

I looked up a YouTube video on my specific model. Found one that said “basic disassembly”. I watched that and had it apart and back together in no time. Very easy to take apart and put new parts back in it. Re-assembled and since the repair no squeaking.

Remove top cover and front and remove drum and install a new bearing kit and new belt.

I took the dryer apart to vacuum and check because of the screaching noise. Took drum out and found the bearing in pieces and shaft had rubbed against the brace. I thought as old as my dryer was I would never get a piece to fix it. I got online and found PartSelect.com. I found the part but could not tell if all was included. there was a Phone Number so I called it. I was helped instantly. They acted like it was no big deal to have a dryer that old. I got my part within a week and had my dryer back together. It works like new. Thank you

I first looked at your directions then felt I could do the repair. So I ordered the part. The video was extremely helpful and allowed me to follow each step in the process. Last time I paid $270 for the exact repair. This time I costs me under $30. Plus I was able to clean out the entire inside of the dryer. The sitr instructions were very helpful and on target for any level of experience. I fixed my own dryer and saved a ton on it! Thank You, Randy In Colorado

As all others have said, without being redundant, I'd view post #1 or #2 for a good detailed set of instructions.

The primary issue I had was with the stainless steel ball bearing that was shipped with the kit. I couldn't figure out what it was used for, because when I removed the bearing carrier the ball fell out before I could see where the original one was located. The stainless ball bearing is a grounding ball, not a bearing. It goes on the exterior of the plastic bearing carrier/receiver.

Once I figured that part out, it was a piece of cake.

Took a little longer than other people's repairs, but I also put a new belt on and re-worked the exhaust duct for solid ducting versus flexible duct. fine-tuning the rigid duct work was a piece of cake with the tumbler out, since i could crawl right inside the chassis and make sure everything would line up (level legs, adjust elbows, etc)

Took a putty knife and released top clips. Tipped top back , and took out 4 screws holding front cover in place. Lifted out drum, replaced bearing plate. Removed 2 screws and replaced back panel bearing. Placed drum back in place, installed front panel, snapped top back in place and job was done. Very easy. Took about one hour.

1.Removed access panel on back of machine in order to place a block under the drum(see step 3).2. Removed the top (clips), 3.removed the front panel(clips), block placed under drum earlier prevents drum from tilting and makes removing front panel with door very easy.4. Slipped new belt on. 5.Replaced front panel and removed block under drum. 6. Aligned belt and checked movement of drum, 7. attched belt to pulley on motor and positioned belt tensioner.8. Installed top and access panels.
This repair is very straight forward, block under drum makes things easy, since the drum stays level when the front panel is removed and replaced.

Follwed all the other comments real easy

This was a simple repair. Before I ordered the parts I had read several of the "repair stories" on this site, plus my neighbor explained to me the process. So I had a good idea of what I was getting into.

I am not real sure how long it took because I was watching a football game while I was making the repair, but I would guess if I did it straight through it would be about 1 hr.

Replacing the Drum Glide and Lower Basket Seal
1) Pulled dryer out from the wall
2) Unplugged Dryer
3) Pop the top off the dryer. Insert a screw driver in the crack right at the corners to pry
the top off.
4) My dryer had a quick connector for all the wiring (which I found half way through the
repair) that allowed me to disconnect all the wires leading to the door. If you can find
that disconnect that so you can easily remove the door & front panel.
5) Removed two screws holding the front panel on.
6) Remove the front panel. Once the 2 screws are removed the only thing holding my
front panel on were a couple of clips.
7) Removed the Drum Glide (top) & Lower Basket Seal (bottom) around the door frame in
the front panel. This is the worst part because you have to scrape a lot of the glue
and it takes a little while to do this.
8) Glue the Drum Glide. I used some spring clamps to hold it in place. Glue did come with
the Drum Glide (but not the Lower Basket Seal)
9) Glue the Lower Basket Seal. Since I only had 4 spring clamps I waited until the Drum
Glide was secure. So if you have several of these clamps that would be best.
** if not replacing the belt skip that section.

Replacing Dryer Drum Belt
I took a lot of the people's advise and replaced the belt while I had the dryer apart. But if you are only replacing the belt perform steps 1 - 6 above first.
1) Remove the access panel on the back of the dryer. Mine had for screws.
2) Remove the belt. There is a spring loaded pulley that you just move to one side so the
belt will loosen up enough to remove.
3) Place the new belt on. I started in the front and moved the belt over the drum to the
back. Then moved to the back of the dryer and through the access panel placed the
belt over the pulleys.

Thats pretty much it. I barely got dirty. Oh, while I was in there I cleaned as much lint as I could. That was the dirty part. Now all you have to do is put it back together.
1) Reconnect the front panel, and wire harness.
2) Plug it back in.

If you are wondering why I didn't replace the bearing, I didn't have any grease and the part fit but didn't look exactly like the current one. And the current one looked ok. Since this was my first attempt at fixing a dryer; I decided not to press my luck.

Partselect provided me with what to look for with my symptoms and excellent delivery time.

disconnected power unlocked both top sides ,lift top back and take top 2 screws out, then unhooked wiring,then remove whole front away from drum.scrap off all the remaining pieces, then glue and wait till tacky, then apply
front lower basket seal and top drum glide seal,replace the front ,hook wires back to proper place , put the two top screw back on!!! happy drying!!!

there are several srcews to remove. there are some u dont have to take out but it looks like u do.ease of the front panel and remove the old drum glide,very hard to get of all the felt.check the the bottom guide before u order parts if possible(i could've replaced mine,but didnt have time to check it first).when glue back in place follow directions exact and clamp.allow glue to dry as long as u can. mine set overnight it was nice and dry(if u dont you'll be doing it all over again)replace everything as you took them off.all works great perfect fit!!

replaced rear drum bearing kit. Watched video made it real easy. The only problem was getting the belt back on the pulleys.

Watched video sent to me after I purchased belt on line. Super helpful!