DBSR463EG2WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

I had already replaced the four (4) small wear strips which were like short strips of teflon, and the squeaking decreased almost completly. I noticed that front side of the drum itself had started to wear through the actual plastc drum bearing, but I hoped having previously replaced these tefon strips that would be the overall fix.
Wrong again... after a few weeks the squeeking continued until I ordered the new drum bearing and replaced the worn one with the new one. I was able to re-use the previous teflon wer strips, and it's like new now at least the squeaks are gone,

The actual fix was a very simple remove old drum bearing, snap in new drum bearing install old teflon wear strips put four screws in top, and front panel and I was back in business

The inner piece of the knob cracked so it just spun on the dryer shaft it's suppose to turn. Ordered a new knob, slipped it on and all works great again now.

Replace the front and rear bearings. When I have to do it again I will only order (3106), (313), 2x (316) green, 2x (316) white, and drive belt. Taking it apart and putting it back together was easy. Unplug the unit. Take out the 2 philips screws that hold on the top. Lift the top from the front to clear the locking tabs in the back and take it off. Take out the 2 5/16 screws that hold on the front. Tilt the front (door) forward and rest the drum on the dryer sides, you'll see it. Disconnect the wiring harness for the light and door switch, 2 wires. Lift the front off the bottom retaining clips and place aside. Have someone hold up the drum. Reach under and unhook the drive belt. Pull out the drum assembly. Take off the rear bearing, 3 screws. Clean out the heating element area in the back of the dryer while you have a chance. Replace the bearing assembly. I bought the entire bearing assembly but I could have gotten away with just the sleeve ( 3106), but I didn't know that at the time. Take off and replace the drive belt. Lock the tension arm for the drive belt into the compressed position shelf holder by the motor, push the arm down, you'll see it. Replace the drum and have someone hold it up while you rehook the drive belt and release the tension arm. Now, I would suggest replacing the entire front bearing. If the slides have been bad for a while, the plastic bearing (housing) is probably worn out and cracked. I had to order a front bearing assembly because the new slides wouldn't work with the worn out assembly, no big deal, it came quick. Unscrew the light bulb. Slowly pull the assembly away from the top of the front metal panel, slowly, and pay attention to where everything lines up. Replace the new front bearing and put the new slides on the little plastic tabs, be careful so you don't snap them off. Green on top, white on the sides. Replace the lightbulb. Set the front panel into place on the tabs at the bottom of the dryer. Rehook the door wires (2), and have someone hold up the drum while you slide the front bearing into the drum. Holding the front panel in place, turn the drum by hand and check for binding, things that don't sound or look right. Replace the 2 nuts to hold on the front. Plug it in, keep your hands back, turn it on, look, listen, everything fine. Open door, unplug, replace the top and the 2 screws that hold it on. Plug in, turn it on and check for any noise, you shouldn't hear any. If you do, you didn't do something right or maybe your drive pulleys are bad. A good dad and son job; especially getting on the ground and reaching under to deal with the drive belt. Watch out for sharp edges on the sheet metal and be slow and careful with the front plastic bearing so it doesn't snap. Your now good for 5 more years. A 2 on the difficulty scale, just take it slow and have an extra set of hands.

pull top and front of dryer (6 screws), take belt off drum and pull drum out the front of dryer. Take the three star head screws out of stainless heat vent inside of drum and take old bearing housing out of back wall of dryer housing. Pretty much self evident putting everything back in, some trouble installing new bearing housing in back wall of dryer, screws are hard to turn in by hand (new hole). Vacum inside of dryer housing, install everything the way in came out, , plug it in and WA-LA.

i ordered parts before taking the dryer apart, based on the symptoms others described so that i would have everything i needed. sure enough once i pulled the panels off, the drum slides and entire bearing were destroyed. i assume that happened with age, and ignoring the problem didn't help. by the time i replaced the parts I'm surprised the dryer drum was actually still turning at all!

The front panel has wear and tear, as was the drum bearing with broken pieces. To buy a new dryer would be several hundred dollars. A repairman told us it is not worth trying to replace the front panel. I found part select and ordered the required parts. All in all my cost is just over 200 dollars and I have a like new dryer. The front panel does not exactly fit my dryer (I guess my dryer is older) so I had to drill two holes to fit the bottom catch plate. I followed the video instructions. It was easy.

-- Unplug dryer from electrical outlet
-- Open Door
-- Remove two screws going up into the top panel
-- Remove top panel
-- Close door
-- Remove two screws holding front panel
-- Remove Front Panel by turning out, keeping left side close to unit since wires are still connected.
-- Vacuum out all loose dust/lint
-- Tilt old Drum bearing toward you to remove.
-- Remove Old Felt Drum Seal
-- Install drum Slides on new Drum Bearing
-- Install new Drum Bearing, make sure it clicks into place securely.
-- Install new Felt Seal, make sure to push in far enough to securely hook to the clips on the bottom of the Drum Bearing.
-- Reinstall front and top panels
-- Plug in electrical
-- Dry

I was using vice grips to turn the control knob (stub) until the new knob arrived. The replacement knob was a redesigned type with a metal backing plate to place on the control knob stub (better than the original plastic knob) however the diameter of the new knob is only half the size of the original knob and the mark on the dial does not line up with the markings on the dryer control panel making it difficult to know what cycle you are using or how far to turn the dial within each cycle before passing to the next cycle.

Just took out of plastic wrapping and put on dryer. No tools needed.

Pulled off old knob and snapped new one into place. Took about 5 seconds. Must be a lame design cause my dryer's less than 2 years old and the knob snapped on the inside and wouldn't turn. Easy to fix though.

Dryer is 3 yeras old. This dryer switch / start knob broke three times. First two GE repair fixed it. Charge was about $75 to $100. Then I found Parts Select, Who what great prices. Switch cost under $10. and took me 10 minutes to install. Dryer works great again. OH, I ordered an extra switch to have on hand.

Removed that to screws for that top first and door shake top little to that front and I took two screws on that top each side and removed that front and lint trap and install the new

i follow your video and all went well except now the dryer will not heat. i went back on your site an tried the no heat option an still no heat

I am a 55 year old woman who likes to repair household items. I followed You Tube instructions and did it all by myself. A few screws to get the top off and a two more to remove the front piece. Trap duct assembly was cracked and falling apart. Pulling off the old was fairly easy. I watched the You Tube instructions on my Ipad so I could rewind and watch as I did it. The hardest part was I dropped one of the screws when placing the front of the dryer back on and had to find another one that was the same size. Luckily I have lots of old screws in my tool box, If you like to do small simple repairs to save some money this is an easy one.

followed video exactly