DBL333EBW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Removed the rear access panel (8 - 10 bolts), checked the pullys. Opened the dryer door, removed 4 allen screws at top and lifted the top of the dryer (like a hood on a car). Removed a screw (phillips) on each side (inside) pulled open the front and worked the belt around the drum. Placed belt onto pullys, plugged in checked for proper rotation of drum then unplugged and installed screws and bolts. - Fairly easy, saved a bunch from a service call. I also found 15+ years of lint inside the dryer. Vacumed and cleaned the inside -it even dries faster! Sorry Honey - No new dryer this year - Now can I go hunting?

a. researched internet to find how to access rotary starter switch
b. isolated all electrical input at breaker box
c. removed 4 torx screws on top of dryer head
d. lowered dryer head (swivels toward front)
e. pulled electrical connections from back of switch
f. turned and pulled thus releasing rotary switch
g. reversed procedure above
h. reconnected electrical
i. started dryer - it worked first time
j. watched football until wife came home
k. told wife dryer was fixed and what a bear it was to get it done :o)
l. that night accepted my reward for working so hard at fixing the dryer and saving us a bundle. :o)
m. now we are both smiling

Troubleshooting was the hardest thing to do in this repair. the first thing I found wrong was the thermal overload was bad. That was easy to replace since that is on top of the housing for the heating coils and easy to reach. Only 2 screws hold it in place. Once I replaced that the dryer would start but, the temperature was off the chart. Now I know why that part broke. The control Thermostat was a little harder. That is held in by 2 screws but it is in an awkward place. I replace the 2 slotted screws with nut driver type screw which made it easier to place the screws in such a small area. Once the control thermostat was replaced the dryer worked great

The part arrived in only 3 days and I didn't even pay for express shipping!

Once I popped the top lid off, and removed the two screws holding the front on it was a breeze from there. Simply take the drive belt off by loosening the spring loaded tensioner on the bottom, lift entire drum slightly up and then out. Remove the screws to replace bearing on rear of drum (4) and the screws that hold the bushing assembly in place (2). Reverse the process and you will be up and running in no time at all.

I was about to buy an ew washer and dryer set, but thanks to PartSelect.com, i saved over $1000!

Removed front and top panals to dryer. Installed belt over the drum. opened back air vent panal and installed belt to pully. Reinstalled back top and front panals. Done.

I took off the broken knob since it was already loose. Then I removed the new part from its wrapper and lined the bolt up the knob. Inserting and pushing until it felt like the knob had a firm grip the job was done.

My husband replaced the rotary start switch that we bought. However, the dryer still would not start. He then tested each remaining switch/dial (before we spent more money on parts) to see if the dryer would start if the electrical connection by-passed that part. None of the top panel switches was the culprit. Then he pulled the door switch. The dryer worked with the switch out, but still connected. He reset each wire, put the door switch back in place, and it failed again. He pulled the switch, added electrical tape to all the connections, and put it back. The dryer works fine now.

Watch the videos for replacing the belt. The one by Kenmore is the most accurate even though it isn't GE -- the mechanisms are the same. Here is the link to the one I found most helpful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G2wTmfurT5o

First: You don't need to pull the washer/dryer out at all. Leave it in place. You can put the belt around the drive shaft and get the tension pully in place by feel and inspect your work with a flasklight,

Second: There is absolutely no reason to spend $70 on a rubber belt. Other places sell it as cheaply as 10 dollars. Shop around -- the actual part is not at all impressive and should not be priced this high.

took the top off, then the front,there 2 screws that hold the front on. there's a yellow thing on the front took that off, it is held on with one screw. on the back of the dryer on the bottom is a metal plate take that off, to get to the belt take that off. then there' 3 screws in the drum, take them off ,then you can slid the drum out. then take 2 screws off the bearing bracket, that's it. easy

Took the top and the front panel off (took me a while to figure this out without breaking stuff). Took off belt, pulled out drum, replaced bearing, and then I also had to replace the ball (attached to rear of drum, which slides inside the bearing).

On arrival at rental in Florida, knob & half of shaft are on top of the dryer. Thanks! It's fixed

Unplug the AC cord. Open dryer door and unscrew 4 small Phillips screws that hold the top panel to the front panel. Tilt up the top panel.
To remove the front panel: Look on the inside of the front panel, disconnect all the wire connections that go to/from the front panel, such as the light and door switch. Remove 2 screws that attach the top of front panel to the side panels using a 8mm or 5/16" wrench. Undo or loosen 2 Phillips screws at the bottom of the front panel, one at each bottom corner. Remove the front panel. Go to the back of the dryer. Remove the 8 screws holding the lower access panel (8mm or 5/16"). Remove the access panel. Also, remove the 2"x4" access plate in the center of the back panel (2 8mm/5/16"). Reach inside the small panel opening with a needle nose pliers and remove a Cir-clip and washer that holds the rear drum bearing shaft in place. Now you can remove the drum straight forward. Clean, clean, clean the insides. Replace the worn drive belt, follower wheel and front slider pads as needed. Reverse the procedure to reassemble. Plug in and test. Drink beer.

Line up knob. Push on.

first I removed the screws with the nutdriver at the bottom of the dryer at the back..then I could see the belt was broken...next I took off the 2 nuts at the back that hold the top on ..then opened the dryer front door and unscrewd the 4 screws holding the top on....then I lifted the top up and to the side...then all I had to do was take out 2 screws one on each side of dryer front and the the front was open enough that I could slide the new belt on dryer..then screwed the front back on...then placed the top on and went to the back of dryer and put belt on pulley using the diagram I found in the instructions inside the dryer top...really a lot easier than it sounds...easy fix saved me from buying another dryer

First unplug dryer... very important. You have to identify the appropriate size socket wrench and locate all necessary screws to remove top panel of dryer and front panel. Locate belt drive. Remove old belt , replacing it with new belt attaching belt to dryer drum . Remove back panel of dryer to better reach and adjust belt onto tension wheels. Put dyer back together. YouTube gives you an idea of how to properly change a belt on dryer