DDE8105NCCAV General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Ordered the recommended parts on-line and they showed up the next day. I followed the on-line repair video that described it all step-by-step.

I watched video supplied from parts select, only took about 30 minutes, hardest part was putting belt back on, couldn't fit hands in easily, but once I did it, dryer is like new, can't hear a thing.

I have had this happen to another ge dryer, so I had an idea what was wrong. After taking the 4 torx screws out from under the front lip of dryer top, lifting the top back (like opening the hood of your car) in the back right corner is where the high limit tstat is. To verify the problem (dryer already unpluged of course) pull the two wires off the terminals of tstat, connect them together, wrap bare parts w/ electrical tape. Let top down & plug dryer in-- it started& ran fine. Got online and ordered replacement tstat (it arrived in 2 days-- great!) unscrewed the two 1/4" hex screws holding tstat on, installed new part. On to bigger and better things ! Dryer working fine.

Break up the broken knob easily with plyers.Once thats off then push on the new knob with your fingers that took 3 seconds ,fit perfect.

the switch was stuck couldn't get the switch to pop out to stop the dryer when opening the door light inside also wouldnt go on. it only took a few min to take it the switch and replace the new switch the light now works also stops when opening the door it made my day easierhow easy it was to fix it. only take to use a pliers and screw driver.

Make sure your power is off, When loosened the top and tilted back, the first thing I saw was the door switch, I guess I was just lucky I disconnected the two wires and checked it and it was bad. Got my new one from you and installed it. It has a ground terminal, which my model switch only had the two terminals. It working fine.I took the bad switch apart and the one leg on the copper U shaped contact had broken off. The Belt I have as a spare.

the replacement part was easy to replace but remembering how the belt went back on took alittle more time..

removed four screws holding top. Swing back top to expose thermostat. emove two push on connectors and two self tapping screws. Instal new thermostat

Change the coil by removing the cotter pin around drum in the back I accidently removed the 3 star bits and the front and it was hard getting back together. The coils are easy to change, but found that the coil wasn't the issue it was the cyclical thermosat underneath the lint catcher in front. The part (heater coil) works better than the older one, so I guess it wasn't a complete screw up. I read up on a few others and think I should have check thermostat first oops. good luck

Researching on the web I thought the trouble might be lint buildup or trouble w/ one of the parts involved in spinning the drum. However I cleaned out all the lint and replaced the belt and idler pulley and this didn't improve the smell (drum bearing was fine). I then concluded the trouble was the motor. Running the motor w/o the drum in place confirmed this was where the noise/smell was coming from. Replacing the motor was fiddly--I had to remove the clip holding the motor (pried the top w/ a screwdriver), wires (made a diagram so as to put back in same order, they were hard to get off--a pliers did the job), clamps holding the motor on the duct, the motor mount, the duct, the fan. Putting all this back together took a while (not hard just fiddly). Tested the motor w/out the drum in place and it sounded fine. Put the drum and back/front/top panels back and the dryer runs fine now. All parts came quickly and exactly matched the parts in my 1993 Hotpoint dryer. As others have said the pulley kit is not needed--these are included w/ the motor. BTW I am a 53-year-old lady. Thanks to all who took the time to write up their experiences--big help!!

Had to tap three holes in the rear bearing to match the three attachment screws. Screw up with the part.