PCXR353ET5WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

It was amazingly simple and I am not even a handy man by any means. The only difficult part was pulling the cable connections as they are a bit tight. I was glad that I could accomplish this task for which the repair person was demanding $120.
Most of these things are doable it's just that common folk are just too scared to even try them out. I figured rather than going out to buy a new dryer for $500 ( and if my wife had her way, $1000) I could give it a shot for $80.

After reading comments made by other customers, I ordered the timer and it arrived 3 days later. I used a star bit with the electric screw driver to open the top of the dryer. I removed all the dials and pulled open the top cover of the dryer. I carefully lifted the "tang" that kept the timer in place and turned the timer clockwise. I then used my cell phone camera and took picutres of all the connections so that it would be easier to reconnect the wireing to the new timer. I disconnected the wiring from the old timer and reconnected them to the new timer. I inserted the tang place in place and rotated the time timer counter clockwise. I then placed the cover back on, inserted the star screws and tighten them down. I put back all the dails and the dryer is working perfectly since. Took about 30 mins. I'm very pleased with the delivery of the timer and the ease of the installation. I will use Part Select as my sole supplier for all future repairs on my appliances. Part Select is Number 1 in my book!!!!

Took out interlock switch (two leads) and replaced with new one. As simple as that.

On arrival at rental in Florida, knob & half of shaft are on top of the dryer. Thanks! It's fixed

I had already replaced the four (4) small wear strips which were like short strips of teflon, and the squeaking decreased almost completly. I noticed that front side of the drum itself had started to wear through the actual plastc drum bearing, but I hoped having previously replaced these tefon strips that would be the overall fix.
Wrong again... after a few weeks the squeeking continued until I ordered the new drum bearing and replaced the worn one with the new one. I was able to re-use the previous teflon wer strips, and it's like new now at least the squeaks are gone,

The actual fix was a very simple remove old drum bearing, snap in new drum bearing install old teflon wear strips put four screws in top, and front panel and I was back in business

i ordered parts before taking the dryer apart, based on the symptoms others described so that i would have everything i needed. sure enough once i pulled the panels off, the drum slides and entire bearing were destroyed. i assume that happened with age, and ignoring the problem didn't help. by the time i replaced the parts I'm surprised the dryer drum was actually still turning at all!

This repair was the easiest that I've ever done. Removed 4 torx head screws on the back and the timer unsnapped from its holder. I unplugged one wire at a time and plugged each one to the new timer. This part came the next day after I ordered it and PartSelect was cheaper than any other supplier.

With my hands, a 2 yr old could of done it. But I was amazed how quickly I received the part. Thanks

Removed that to screws for that top first and door shake top little to that front and I took two screws on that top each side and removed that front and lint trap and install the new

-- Unplug dryer from electrical outlet
-- Open Door
-- Remove two screws going up into the top panel
-- Remove top panel
-- Close door
-- Remove two screws holding front panel
-- Remove Front Panel by turning out, keeping left side close to unit since wires are still connected.
-- Vacuum out all loose dust/lint
-- Tilt old Drum bearing toward you to remove.
-- Remove Old Felt Drum Seal
-- Install drum Slides on new Drum Bearing
-- Install new Drum Bearing, make sure it clicks into place securely.
-- Install new Felt Seal, make sure to push in far enough to securely hook to the clips on the bottom of the Drum Bearing.
-- Reinstall front and top panels
-- Plug in electrical
-- Dry

I am a 55 year old woman who likes to repair household items. I followed You Tube instructions and did it all by myself. A few screws to get the top off and a two more to remove the front piece. Trap duct assembly was cracked and falling apart. Pulling off the old was fairly easy. I watched the You Tube instructions on my Ipad so I could rewind and watch as I did it. The hardest part was I dropped one of the screws when placing the front of the dryer back on and had to find another one that was the same size. Luckily I have lots of old screws in my tool box, If you like to do small simple repairs to save some money this is an easy one.

i follow your video and all went well except now the dryer will not heat. i went back on your site an tried the no heat option an still no heat

Checked the fuse box to see if any breakers tripped on the two 120 lines feeding the dryer.

Checked for clogged exhaust vents/hose/etc, cleaned.

Some paint flaking off inner drum around heat vent.

Unplug & disassembled unit. Took pictures for reference to help with reassembly later. Upon removing drum, found sagging heat coils, one broken, some heat damage to the housing near the top. Determined that more than just coils needed replacing.

Also checked each of the three heat sensors (cycling thermostat, high limit thermostat & safety thermostat) with the digital multimeter. All were positive continuity for low temps.

Tested ONLY the cycling thermostat on the kitchen stove with burner set to warm. Check burner temp with meat thermometer to see it exceed 120F. Continuity broke at high temp. Although the cycling thermostat seemed ok with my generic test, I decided to replace it anyway.

My understanding of the Safety Thermostat & High Limit Thermostat is that they work like safety fuses, breaking at dangerous temps, but not resetting afterward. So these were only tested at room temperature, not with heat.

With the unit open, I checked other components for signs of wearing out. Also cleaned the unit more thoroughly.

Reassembled in stages. The belt is the trickiest part to get back on the motor & tension pulley, it's just a little awkward to reach. Tested to make sure the drum moved freely and belt was correct before finishing the reassembly.

Checked to make sure the dryer was still level, after all the moving around, disassembly & reassembly.

Ran several supervised test loads. Felt the temperature. No tripped breakers or smoke. Exhaust was flowing unhindered. Clothes got dry.

I read the other repair instructions on this site and looked at the parts diagrams. It wasn't entirely clear how everything came apart but once I started by unscrewing the top of the dryer and removing it (screws were just inside the dryer door) it was easy. Unscrewed the front panel next , swung it out, and it was quick work to install the new bearing with the slides. It wasn't too clear in the parts diagrams but I did need two each of the dryer drum slides and front dryer drum slides, four total, two on each side of the drum bearing. The dryer had been running on the old drum bearing itself, the old slides had worn completely down and the bearing itself was starting to disintegrate too. If I'd caught it sooner I could have reused the bearing and just replaced the slides. Saved a lot of $ and the dryer is nice and quiet again!

Opened panel, bent retainer tab, took off wires. Took out switch, put in new switch, replaced wires and knob and plugged it in. Off she goes. PS, how the hell did you get that part to me in less than 24 hours??? Thanks guys.