MTMX100ED2WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

had a great video to follow, made it easy to install.

I pulled the dryer away from the wall, I unplugged it, I took the back of it off, I removed the piece the timer, I marked on a piece of paper how to put it back together, I followed the instructions how to put it back together, I push I plugged it in, pushed it back into the wall turned it on bingo. Bingo dryer is working.

I removed several torx srews across the back control panel. Removed two philips screws under top of front dryer door. Pulled up on top surface of dryer case. Removed two more screws on backside of front door panel. Pulled front door panel forward and inserted drum slides into slots that they just popped into with a small button rod to keep them in place. The old drum slides were completely worn down or fell off. It runs like a new one again. It is over 10 years old.
The new door handle just snapped into place.
Original door handle had been broken off for several years.

This repair was a no brainer repair. The factory replacement knob that I bought from this site comes with a new "D"-Ring. Some other aftermarket parts houses sell the knob and the "D"-Ring as seperate parts. The knob from this site already has the "D"-Ring ring installed in the knob. My "D"-ring was broken and I simply removed it with my fingers. All I had to do was properly align the new know knob with the timer shaft and press it into place. If your "D"-ring is not broken and not still inside the old knob, you will need to pull it off the shaft with a pair of pliers before pressing the new knob onto the timer shaft. Dr. "B" The Hot Rod Doc

looked at video of dryer disassemble, replaced 4 bearing slides, reassembled. Dryer is perfect now , no noise. thank you for your parts.

With the help of doityourself guy on the internet

Followed the directions but met resistance when the
timer could not be slipped off the "peg".
This timer was installed with a very small screw to remove
and install the new timer.- Thus, called an electrician
who had the very small screw driver to install the timer!
So $$$$$$$$$$. unhappy about this!

The instructions that came with the bearing were limited and the illustrations were too dark to see. However, after reading the reports of others on this website, the repair was very easy.

Prior to disassembly, remove theaccess panel on the rear of the dryer. Pull the belt drive pulley arm up and the belt will easily slide off of the motor pulley. The belt can be left on the drum.

Then, remove two screws at the inside top of the dryer door. The top of the dryer will then lift up at the front and slide forward to remove. This will allow you access to two bolt head screws on each side of the front panel. Remove these two screws and then lift the panel slightly up and forward. The front panel will then be free and the dryer drum will slide forward and out. Remove the four bolt head screws (behind the electric elements) from the heater element on the inside back of the dryer box.

You can now exchange the bearing on the drum and the bearing insert on the dryer heating element simply by removing the old and reinstalling the new just as the old was removed - four screws for each.

You will need an assistant to re-install the bearing. Someone needs to hold the three pieces behind the drum as you insert the three screws. You'll also need a star wrench set for this.

The drum is easily reinserted - just be careful to get the front of the drum placed into the front bearing surface when reinstalling the front panel. One word of caution, My wife tried to remove the felt bearing on the bottom of the front panel thinking that it was lint.

I found that the inside of my ten year old dryer was unbelievably full of lint. I'm sure that the efficiency improvements by cleaning the air passages will be substantial and I've just saved $400 on the price of a similar dryer ($900 if my wife and I decided to upgrade to the "new" model that we wanted but really didn't need.

Snapped right into place , less than a minute, if that

Opened up the package and took off existing door handle. The new one snapped right into place. This took all of 10 seconds!

Removed the broken lint filter and replaced with new

Removed the star bit screws on the top of the control panel then removed the front by opening the door and removing the screws in the upper corners of the door jam. I then removed the top which exposed the drum slides. NOTE: This model requires 4 drum slides and NOT two as specified in the video.

Shortly after a piece of felt (the duct felt seal) was visible on the drum intererior, the dryer started making metal-on-metal squeaks. A few weeks later it started leaving'machine part' type brown/black marks on clothes. With the model # it was quite easy to find and order the correct part, which arrived a few days later. The accompanying video made installation quite straightforward, even for someone who's NEVER worked on a dryer before - even though the model used wasn't the same. Over half the repair time was to clean out lint and dirt from the various exposed parts. Overall, an easy and effective repair that solved the staining issue. Follow the video and you won't go wrong.

I used a flat head, a phillips head, and two sizes of sockets with my screwdriver to complete this project. I initially undid the control panel, but I don't think I needed to. I next took out two long screws that were holding the top of the cabinet on. These screws were just inside the doorway, directly above where the door sits when closed. I took the top off and set it aside. Being careful to mark which wire went to which lead, I undid the leads to the door open/closed switch. I next found two, black, hex-end screws, one each on the upper sides, towards the front, and undid these with a socket end on the screwdriver; being careful not to drop them as they came out. I then tilted the front panel out and up and set it aside. Note that the front opening holds the drum up so it can spin. Next, I tilted the front of the drum up, and pulled it outwards, till bearing at the back pulled out of the socket, and the drum dropped down enough that I could push the belt off the back of the drum. I then pulled the drum out through the front opening. I could see that the bearing was mostly worn away and metal was rubbing on metal. On the drum, I took off the air diffuser and the drum's half of the bearing assembly, and attached the new part of the bearing assembly, where the old one was. There was a metal disk that I was careful to reinsert in its former spot. I tried to make sure that all screws were tightened with equal force. Then I removed the entire bearing housing/blower assembly by undoing the outer screws that attached it ti the back wall of the cabinet, I rotated it outward at the top , pivoting around the compression fitting (no screws) at the base. I then removed the back half of the bearing housing, and replaced it. I needed to screw in the screws from the front while holding the spring-clip-thing in place (once installed, you can stick your finger through the hole in the bearing housing and feel the clip right behind it). I took this opportunity to clean all the excess lint out of the cabinet. I then replaced everything in reverse order until I got to the drum. I put the belt loosely arounf the drum, with the grooved/ridged side facing in. Then put the bearing (with drum), back in the socket. Feeling through the hole under the front of the drum, take the belt where it hangs off the drum TO YOUR RIGHT, run it under then up around the left side of the small pulley, then pull it to the right (above the small pulley) and around the right side of the big (tensioner) pulley, and let go. Note that there is a swithch in the tensioner that won't switch on unless there is enough tension on the belt! Put the front back on, lifting up the barrel from the inside, so that the barrel opening slides around the outside of the front's assembly. Ours seemed to fit more tightly than it had previously, into the felt padding around to bottom of the front assembly, but it seems to work fine? Screw in the two black, hex-head screws from the sides into the front, and re-attach the door-switch wires. Turn it on (carefully) to make sure it runs. Then attach the top, using the two long screws up through the door opening into the top. Ours is working much better than before - hotter, faster, quieter! Should we have lubricated the bearing with lithium grease?

Still waiting for your parts. over two weeks to get part which was a hinge for something, I don't know what, but not my dryer seal. You said you would refund shipping and wrong part and charge me for a new order. End result was I got charged extra shipping for your mistake. The part still is MIA and it has been 5 weeks since I originally ordered. Will never do business with you again.