PTMX910EMWW0 General Electric Dryer - Instructions

2 Screws hold top on, removed top, 2 more screws hold front panel with door on, removed front panel. Unclipped front drum bearing installed new one with new sliders put back together.

I followed the step by step instructions provided by Video! Very informative, easy to understand and follow! If I can do it myself, anyone can! Thank you !

Replaced it as one would. I took off the front facing and replaced the belt. It took a bit of searching to find the proper way to route the belt around the pulley.

It took a while since it was my first time and I wasn't sure what to take apart and what to leave intact.

If I were to do it again, it would take 30 minutes or less.

After unplugging the dryer, I removed 2 metal screws up under the dryer sill rim, and removed the dryer top. Then, removed two more at the top of the front (door) section to remove it.

I wasn't careful enough when removing the door, and the wiring connectors popped loose from their connections. No harm done, though. Disconnect the wires once you remove the front panel.

I had to loosen the bottom metal screws on one side panel to have enough give to pull the dryer drum out.

The only way to replace the belt is to bend over the side of this unit and with one hand put the belt around the motor drive shaft, pull the tension pulley back, and put the belt on the wheel.

The hard part is working the drum back into place while VERY carefully slipping the belt into the drum goove. Many attempts were made only to have the belt slip off of the tension pulley or motor driveshaft. Be care full to turn the drum clock wise if the belt twists while working it into the drum groove. It was very disappointing to finally get the belt on, and work the drum back into place only to discover I had twisted the belt with the smooth side making contact on the driveshaft. Thus, I started over.

Aiming the drum into the back of the dryer is a tough task. I recommend a 1" X 4 " X 12" board to slip under the drum when beginning this process to help stablize, and guide the drum. It helped me tremendously, and was easy to remove out from under the drum once everything was back in place.

Use gloves. Yes, tough to work with in small places, and I did take them off to replace the belt around the tension pulley, however, there are too many sharp edges on the metal body of the dryer and especially the drum to do so without gloves.

Wires were easy to reattach and reassembly was smooth except for the top...check out the tabs, and spring tabs before you try and just plop the top back on. It goes a certain way...You'll know what i am talking about when you do this task.

I truly hope you have L O N G arms to do this task, and that the new belt lasts a long, long time!

Unplug the dryer. Remove top panel (remove two screws on the upper inside edge of the dryer door). Lift the front panel from front (tabs and slots at the back) and lift off. Remove the front panel (remove a screw from each side - top/front). Front panel sits on two feet at the bottom, tilt it forward from the top and lift it up (careful not to damage the electrical connection at the bottom left side). I found the dryer had another damaged part (plastic guide that the Slide WH and the Drum Slides connected to was badly worn). After ordering the additional part I attached the slides (white and gray) to the guide. Set the front panel back on the two feet and tilt it back into place (you'll need to slightly raise the drum back into position - easy). Replace the two screws that connect the front panel. Replace the top cover. The whole repair took less than 1/2 an hour including the time it took to vacuum out the dust. Total cost, about $35!

inside dryer door housing i removed two screws these hold top of dreyer on.pulled dryer top up and it unhooks from control panel.theres two more screws inside the front door asembly located at the top on booth sides.remove them and the front is free except for dryer door switch.lean it back far enough to unpug wires.lay door asembly on the floor.drum slide pops out with screw driver at the top the bottom just slides out.drum bearigs are plastic strips on the drum slide. pull the old ones out if their is any left.replace with new.you need four drum bearings.then put back together the ame as you took it apart. good luck terry

Poped the top off took out two screws, pulled the front off removed the old parts and put in the new ones.

We had a squeeking sound coming from our dryer which I felt was probably the belt. When I removed the front of the unit and saw the condition of the slodes and drum bearin, I ordered a set from PartsSelect.com. It only took about 20 minutes to repale the parts, and 5 of that was figuring out the bearing just "snaps on" (I was afraid to just yank it for fear of breaking something else). Probably saved like $75 or so between the parts markup and a service call by doing it myself.

I looked online and It showed me a video to fix what was wrong and it couldn't have been easier!!! Saved myself at least $100 by doing it myself. The parts were the right ones and I will definitely look here first if anything else goes wrong with my washer/dryer.

It went perfect , just put it in. No tools needed.

This took less than 10 minutes to complete. 1) pull off the top of the dryer and remove the two screws that attach the front panel to the side panels. Once you pull the front panel towards you, away from the side panels, you can remove the front bearing. Be sure to be careful not to pull apart the wiring on the left side of the front panel. If you do, it is easy re-attached by hand. The front roller bearing of he drum can be removed by hand. Simply pull upward, with a steady pressure, on the bearing. It will snap out with this gradual pressure. The slide can be inserted by hand, with the two gray slide at 11 and 1 o'clock and the wite slide at 10 and 2 o'clock. The new bearing will snap into place by hand. Carefully insert the light bulb into the hole in the top of the new bearing whle snapping into place. The web site provides a good diagram that illustrates the various pieces and assembly. Once the bearing is in place, lift the dryer drum and set on top of the bearing as you re-attach the front panel to the side panels with the screws removed earlier. Replace the top by snapping back into place. Less than 10 minutes.

Pull the old lint trap out. Slid new one in

open door, remove two screws from below the top. gently remove the top from the side and bottom panels. remove two 5/16 screws from front panel hold panel so it does not fall. the bearing assembly will come out by moving the bearing towards the dryer, and pulling upwards. replace with new bearing, use 4 front dryer slides and reinstall the top and front panel. can be done in less than 15 minutes

Piece of cake, mostly because of the nice exploded drawing that was on the site when ordering the parts, it was easy to identify what was needed and order it.

I will never call a repair man again :-)

Removed two screws to remove top to access drum. Removed two screws to remove front panel. Easily removed drum bearing and snapped in new bearing. 4 Glides were slid into slots. Only one problem. My service parts list called for drum bearing #WE3X37. I was sent #WE3M26. I was assured this was the right part for my dryer. Although the part did fit, I was unable to use the existing light because the the hole on new bearing was too small to accommodate it. Replacement of drum bearing would not be necessary if GE would put visible labels on dryer warning consumers of preventive maintenance of glides that wear.