PCCB330ET1WC General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Snapped right into place , less than a minute, if that

It was so simple. I removed the old ripped gasket by just pulling it. I followed the same direction with the new gasket by using a small screw driver to push in the tabs in each of the holes in the door. It works perfectly. They only fear I had was getting the part and the correct part, the model number of the dryer was on the door which made it easy.

On my GE Dryer the lint filter is located inside the door at the bottom. The filter can just be pulled out by hand & a new one pushed into place

good replacement procedure on you tube.

the pulley spring took so much pressure to hold it down it took 3 men and a boy to hold it and place it in position to to get the belt on. Also there is not enough room to get your arms and hands in without getting some small cuts.Ultimately I removed the screws in the back of the dryer and spread the side of the dryer out to gain proper access. It was an easy repair if the spring would not have been so strong.

Snap out the broken part. Snap in the new part. Use caution with the wires, but don’t have to disconnect them.

First and most important - safety. Either unplug the dryer or shut off the circuit breaker. Remove the two screws to the top cover. To locate these screws just open the door as they are located at the top of the door opening. Remove screws and lift up the top cover and carefully pull towards you. Place to the side away from the work area. This now will expose two screws within the side panels holding the front door and front housing. Remove the two screws, lift up and out to remove front housing assemble. Be careful when you remove as the wiring to the light fixture is included. Just remove cover and place side ways close to the dryer.
Remove the bulb then remove the white plastic drum bearing (snaps out or in when replacing with a flat screwdriver).
Prior to installing the new drum bearing install the four white slide strips on top of the drum bearing. Review the old parts for comparison. These actually act as the bushings between the drum bearing and the clothes drum. Please keep in mind the slides do not come with the drum bearing when ordering. You must order seperately. Once the new assemble is snapped into the metal front cover/door now you can re-assemble. While you have the drum exposed it's a good time to check the belt for wear. Sometimes a worn or ripped belt can be the same symptom of the thumpimg sound. For the assemble just reverse all the earlier steps. Plug cord back in or turn on the circuit breaker and run the dryer. You should be good to go for more years of service.

First, I unplugged the dryer, pulled it out into an open area. I then removed the vent hose. I opened the front door and removed the 2 screws that hold the top panel down. Once removed, I lifted off the top which exposed the drum. Next, I remove the 2 screws along each side that allows the front door panel to detached. I noticed that there was damage to the plastic bearing and 3 bearing pads were missing. That was the source of the noise. Once the door panel is lifted off the cabinet, the wires to the safety switch must be pulled off so the door can be set aside out of the way. Then I went to the rear and remove 2 more screws that gave access to the motor, wiring and the tensioner for the dryer belt. Once I gained access to the belt, I slipped it off the tensioner and drive pulley. This allows the drum to be removed from the cabinet. WE wrestled the drum out before realizing that we should have removed another 2 screws securing the sides of the dryer to a cross support under the front of the drum. This would have made the removal of the drum much easier. Once the drum was removed, I had access to the heating coils. Upon examining, I saw that both had burned out at the far left terminals. Directions that came with the new heating elements gave clear instructions on how to install. It's a little daunting to thread both elements through all the insulators, but patience paid off. Everything went back together easily and the dryer started up and heated up just like new.

First I replaced the timer, but dryer still did not start. took apart dryer, jumper out door and componet near motor to see what problem was and to be able to run dryer while opened up. Actually motor had seized up just enough to not allow motor to start rotating. Lubricated motor shaft and rotated motor for oil to work its way in. Tried starting again and motor started. Buttoned dryer back up and reconnected wires to appropriate places and started dryer again and again.Worked for 4 loads of laundry and still working for 3 loads on Wednesday. Working fine

Replaced new screen in place of old one.

started with replacing the belt and tension pulley which I purchased from another source. I found your videos on line and they are great. easy to follow. Realized I needed the bottom vent assembly and your prices were better than my local supplier. It was easy to replace thanks to your video. It was nice that you included it in the final order status. The only problems. Did not know the duct felt seal was included with the new duct assembly. I ordered the wrong bearing slides, web site showed both green and white for my model. I now realize I should replace the upper bearing housing. Can I return the unused parts, unopened and have that put as a credit to my next order? Thanks

TOOK OFF TOP AND FRONT PANEL REACHED IN UNDER TUBE AND REMOVED FROM BELT TENSIONER HARDEST PART IS PUTTING BACK ON TENSIONER TAKES TWO HANDS LAYING ON YOUR BELLY

The first thing I did was move the dryer out so I could "unplug it" !
Then I took the 4 philps head screws out that hold down the top of the dryer, then I lifted up the top and moved it off to the side making sure the wires didn't get pulled out.
Then I removed the 2 5/16 cap screws that holds the front panel on and lifted that off "Make sure you mark the down were the 2 wires for the door swich go" Like white on pin 1 and yellow on pin 2!!!
The next thing is to slide the drum foward so you can remove the element package then remove the 3 philps screws in the back of the drum make sure you have someone hold the element package there is a sheild between the drum and the element package that may fall that is a watch out you will need to move the element package up so you can work on it there will be wires hooked to this ring so becare full you don't break them off.
remove the element package you will see the bearing kit attached to that.
There are 4 5/16 cap screws that hold the bearing kit to that remove them and then remove the old bearing kit you may find and E Ring holding the old bearing kit in place (this would be found in the older models).
Before you install the new bearing kit take the new self tapping screws and tap the holes in the new bearing kit mounting plates this will make things go faster!!!
Now mount the bearing plate with the 4 holes to the element package there is a tab that needs to be mount in there too so look at the old one when you are taking it off.
Pick up the sheild that fell pick it up have a second person help you hold everything in place while you line up the holes for the front plate to the back of the drum and start your screws.
Now tighten them down check to make sure your belt didn't slide off the tensioner that is next to the motor before you slide the drum back in place if it did take the time to figure out how to get it back on the right way our you will be pulling things apart again.
What I did was spin the Drum by hand to make sure everything was ok. you will know if the belt is off it will not move when you spin the drum by hand.
Now that you made sure the belt is on you can put the front back on there are 2 studs on the bottom that you need to set the frount panel on before you can put the screws back in in it.
Now that you have the fron back on it hook your 2 wires back up to the door switch like you took them off!
Now move your top back over and you will see 2 clips on the back of it that slide into a grove in the back now that you have that in place start putting the screws back in put the middle 2 in first and tighten them down them put the last 2 in.
Now plug it back in if your vent pipe fell off hook it back up as you slide your dryer back in place now try it to make sure everything is working right and you will hear the differance.
Good Luck with your repairs....
Just a quick note this dryer is over 40 years old and still going.
I have replace 6 elements and 1 drive belt since it was bought new now the bearing kit.
Clean it once a year and the vent pipe every 6 months it will last!!!

removed top, 2 hex screws, removed front 2 hex screws & 2 star screws. removed belt, slid drum out. Removed old bearing and replaced with new bearing kit. assembled in reverse.
It would help to have another person assist you.

My daughter, who has the dryer in Florida, made the repair herself. She removed the broken handle that had been temporarily taped in place. Cleaned off tape residue with Goo-Gone. Then took the new handle and snapped it into place. Worked just like it was supposed to.