PCCB330EJ0WC General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Searched the sites order # online, called, ordered, delivered PDQ, unpackaged, popped in. That was it.

Dryer was making a horrible noise. When I took it apart I noticed that the from side dryer bearing was ruined. Ordered the part with the slide bars and replaced...Works great...

Looked at the diagram on your web site and replaced part

Hand replace

removed top, 2 hex screws, removed front 2 hex screws & 2 star screws. removed belt, slid drum out. Removed old bearing and replaced with new bearing kit. assembled in reverse.
It would help to have another person assist you.

Took the dryer apart to get to the rear bearing. Took the bearing assembly out, kept the e-ring from the old bearing shaft, replaced the bearing kit, took the o-ring off the new shaft and replaced it with the e-ring, then reassembled the unit. Make sure to place a nail or long screw into into the rear of the drum, so that you can realign bearing on the drum. It is easier with two people when reassembling.

Called my son-in-law. Easy as pie

Replaced the rear drum bearing. Not doing it before ,it took about 1 1/2 hrs. Problem was fixed.

Used online instructions. Worked well.

I followed the directions from the other d-i-y'ers at partselect.com.... removing 2 screws inside the door opening that allow you to remove the cabinet top. Next, removed the 2 screw on the inside cabinet frame that allow the front of the cabinet and door to lean out. I disconnected the wires, labelling them with tape. You just lift up the front and set it to the side. I then removed the back access panel, reached inside and pulled down on the tension bar to allow the drum-belt to come off the pulley. (It helps to remember or draw the path of the belt...I got a little confused when it was time to put it back on). Then me and my wife pulled the drum out towards the front - you have to spread the cabinet open a little - but you can do this without even having to remove the control panel (but if you remove the panel, it is a little easier). The rest is mostly just unscrewing screws.

The problem was definitely the rear drum bearing, which was rusted and the carbon/plastic sleeve was crumbled. I bought it and the front "drum bearing", but I didn't really need the front piece, I really just needed the plastic "slides", which I thought were attached to it, or would at least come with it, but didn't. I'll get those later.

The repair was definitely worth it. If you have a 10 yr old dryer, just clearing the lint and crud from the the blower ducts will make it more efficient - cutting our dying times by 30-50%. The duct beneath the lint filter was probably 60% blocked. No more squeaking. I only wish the little plastic slides weren't $7 a pop, and would come in a package of 2 or 4.

My husband and I had taken apart this dryer before, so the second time was a lot easier. The first time we took it apart it took 2-3 frustrating hours. So, if it's your first time, plan for longer.

1. Before we started anything we unplugged the dryer and disconnected the vent.
2. We removed the top and loosened the contol panel on top.
3. We removed the front. Be careful of the wires. You can label them, or just remember where they go.
4. Lay the dryer down on it's back. This make's it easier to remove the drum.
5. Remove the drum, but gently slide the belt off first. Don't stretch the belt removing it.
6. Once the drum was removed, we removed the screws from the inside of the drum.
7. We didn't need to use the entire kit, just the part that sits in the center and spins...kinda looks like a top. (Yes, that's my technical description)
8. We screwed in the new "top" and put the dryer back together.

Really the only part I had to help with (this time)was putting the drum back in to make sure it sat where it was supposed to. It made a big difference that it was laying on it's back...we didn't do that the first time, which was part of our frustration.

Putting the belt back on is a little tricky too. We had instructions still for our dryer to refer to put it back on. If you don't have yours, just google or bing for the instructions. There's website's out there with great pictures.

Dryer started making screeching noises while running, got progressively worse. Without taking it apart first, I ordered a front drum bearing and slides because this site said it fixed the problem the majority of the time. The site said replace the slides in pairs, but there are actually four. I picked up 2 more at a local appliance store, at roughly twice the price. Turned out I didn't need th replace the plastic piece called drum bearing, just the 4 slides that clip onto it. It is really easy to get the top and front off with just a phillips screwdriver. I did not check the rear center main bearing, as it requred removing the drum. The squealing lessended but it still was bad. Took it back apart and pulled the drum, and fount the rear main bearing bad. I found one at the same local store for only 2 bucks more than on this site. This was a bit more of a hassle, you really need two people to get it mounted to the drum. Tip-pre thread the holes with the self tapping screws, it makes it easier to get it together. There was a bit of lint build up under the drum heating element cover, so it was good to clean that out. Also blew all the dirt out of the motor with compressed air and shop vac. There was a access panel on back to get to the motor and belt tensioner. Got the dryer all buttoned up and now it runs nice and quiet.

Un plug the dryer. Gather phillip, flat head and torix screw drivers. Remove the rear of the dryer to get the spec sheet with the appropriate part number. Next called for part. Belt installation requires removal of front and top of dryer in order to slide belt over the drum. Getting to all the fastners requires tilting the dryer on its back. Clean out excess lint from dryer interior and duct work. Slide drive belt over drum and use some masking tape to hold it in position. Reassemble dyer. Return dryer to upright position and put the belt on the pully and tensioner from rear access port. Remove tape. Replace access panel. Reattach vent duct work. Plug in. There are 5-6 different size screws holding everything together...you may want to use masking tape to label where each type of screw goes. All totaled it took about an hour and cost less that $25. Well worth the effort.

After removing pieces that were stuck in the door, I simply popped the new handle in place. It took less than a minute. What was the easiest was ordering and receiving the new parts- I ordered and 2 days later I received the new parts. I didn't expect to get the new parts for at least a week.

inserted on an angle and snapped in place.
The best part of this story was I ordered the part on a Saturday and got it on Monday evening.
The repair took less than 20 seconds. I am extremely impressed with the fast fast fast shipping time.