677515 General Electric Dryer - Instructions

I first throwed the breaker then I took the old bulb out. Put new bulb in. Turned the breaker back on.
It worked great

I just pressed the latch with my thumb, the latch went in, and voila....job done. Thank you

Washer/dryer belongs to a friend. Originally, the problem was that the dryer wouldn’t heat, so I opened it up, and removed the drum thinking it might be the heating element. It wasn’t, and the ohm reading confirmed this. It turned out to be a burnt wire connector to the element ( unknown to me, and found out later, was that the start switch had remained continuously in the down position because the switch was pressed too far down and thus remained locked “on” in place under the surrounding cabinet frame. This, in my opinion, caused for a continual call for heat and thus burnt the wire.)

I replaced the burnt wire/connector and reassembled. Now the dryer would heat, but would only run if the start button was continually depressed. Let go of the button, and the dryer stopped.

Repair pros suggested a new start switch. I bought a new start switch along with a new interlock switch (it basically shuts off dryer if belt breaks because lack of a belt releases pressure on the pulley that keeps switch depressed.) Apparently they can go bad, too.

It turns out neither of these switches were bad. Instead, upon further inspection, after the first installation of the drum belt, the L-shaped bracket which holds the pulley for belt tension became dislocated from its correct position and was not allowing for the depression of the interlock switch, causing the dryer to “read” broken belt, and thus, not run.

I loosened the motor bracket to allow placing the bracket in the correct position. Reassembled and all was good.
PSA - almost every sheet metal edge is razor sharp.
In the process of returning parts. Now in the process of returning parts.

We removed two screws to remove the top and two screws to remove the front. The dryer drum slides were easy to replace and the felt fit into a track. It was so easy and now my dryer is quiet again, no more rubbing/squeaking. I can't believe that was all we had to do, and for $60.00!!! I'll be back for future parts if needed. Thanks.

There are 2 switches that should be pressed in when you move the handle to lock door, the switches usually go bad with time. Just take the six screws off on the inside of door, then remove screw on the underneath part of handle. The switches are located on the top part under a piece of 1 inch metal plate held in by a screw, remove that and you'll see the 2 switches, test the button on each one to see if it goes in and out, you'll hear the click to. Just unplug bottom first then the top if you need to replace the top one. Thats it.

The part was delivered in record time. That was the best part. And it fit perfectly and was the correct color. The other filter was grey and the dryer is white. Thanks for being so efficient.

Ordered new lint filter, received it in 2 days, removed old filter, snapped in new filter, patted myself on the back .

Took off the front panel. Followed the repair videos provided. Everything went well. Dryer dries better and is very quiet.

First I called to get help with the right part and they told me I needed the pus-to-start-switch. It came in and I called my handyman Ed to install it. I am happy with your service. I dont install but just got the part in.

My dryer knob broke on the timer cycle switch so I ordered a new one along with a new dryer knob which didn't fix the problem, then I ordered the start switch and all I had to do was remove the back of the dryer where all the knobs are located and remove the start switch by turning the start switch to remove it, replace it with the new one by turning it till it clicks in just like when you removed it, put knob back on the front. However that didn't fix my dryer either so I ordered the thermal fuse and switched it out and that was what started the dryer back up. It is located on the back all the way to the bottom where the electrical cord is. Remove the cover and locate the fuse. Use a pair of pliers to pop it out and push the new one back in.

Install would have been easier if part was
an exact
fit. Had to make do with part not fitting exact. Let's just say the dryer works but light won't line up.

Advice from others with same problem on your web site was very helpful. I removed one of the three torx screws holding the deflecter, Used 2.5 star-drive screw diver bit and cordless drill/driver. Replaced 2 of three torx screws holding the deflecter with the headless brass screws, Using vice grip to tighten. Removed third torx screw and removed old deflector. Used shop vac to clean behind it. Installed new deflector, sliding it over the 2 headless screws, then installing one of the torx screws, then replacing the brass screws with original torx screws, one at a time.

Unplugged dryer from power source. Unscrewed holding plate (1-screw) and back plate (5-screws). Took photo of old timing unit while it was still mounted on the dryer to show wire correct wire connections. Used needle nose pliers to remove connecting wires one at a time from old timing unit and attached them to new timing unit. Reinstalled back plate and holding plate.

Open the dryer door and remove the two screws in the top of the door opening that hold the top of the dryer on, and then remove the dryer top. On the inside of the dryer, there are two screws that hold the front of the dryer on. Remove one screw from each side of the dryer near the top, and the front of the dryer will fall away. The drum slides are visible when you lean the front panel of the dryer out away from the drum. You can replace the drum slides without even removing the front of the dryer completely. Pull out the old drum slides and insert the new slides. Lift the drum slighly from the inside through the dryer door as you tilt the front back into place. Reinsert the screws holding the front of the dryer on and tighten. BE CAREFUL not to drop the screws or you may have to disassemble the dryer to get at the dropped screws. Reinstall the top of the dryer. It is a difficult fit which requres inserting into 3 tabs and sliding the top into place. Check that the top is flush before inserting and tightening the screws in the top of the door opening.

I removed the top of the dryer by removing two screws located under the front lip of the dryer over the dryer door. Then I removed the dryer door by removing the screws holding the hinges. I then removed the front panel of the dryer by removing the two screws at the top inside two corners. I the removed the old Dryer Drum Slide. The Drum Bearings were almost completley worn off. I installed the (4) new Drum Bearings (2 Clear or White and 2 brown) the same way they were installed on the old Dryer Drum Slide on the new Dryer Drum Slide. I then installed the Dryer Drum Slide the way I removed the old one. Then I pulled the old Lower Front Drum Seal-Felt and replaced with the new one. Works like new!