GFMS355EL0MV General Electric Dryer - Instructions

loosened two hose clamps and four screws to replace the anti siphon valve.

Un plug the dryer. Gather phillip, flat head and torix screw drivers. Remove the rear of the dryer to get the spec sheet with the appropriate part number. Next called for part. Belt installation requires removal of front and top of dryer in order to slide belt over the drum. Getting to all the fastners requires tilting the dryer on its back. Clean out excess lint from dryer interior and duct work. Slide drive belt over drum and use some masking tape to hold it in position. Reassemble dyer. Return dryer to upright position and put the belt on the pully and tensioner from rear access port. Remove tape. Replace access panel. Reattach vent duct work. Plug in. There are 5-6 different size screws holding everything together...you may want to use masking tape to label where each type of screw goes. All totaled it took about an hour and cost less that $25. Well worth the effort.

Took off control panel,top,leftside facing door,and,door panel. Replace the 2 green and 2 white slides, the front drum bearing, the rear bearing and groundind strap behind the heating element,and new belt. Put back together,run's and sounds like new. The hardest part was putting drum bearing in inside and backside of drum by yourself. Replace belt with left side panel off. Easy to get on that way.

Removed the 3 star screws, putting in a piece if wire as I removed them. Wire was not stiff enough and let the drum slip thus binding making it hard to remove. Started over. Finally called a friend for help. I bought 3 tension pins the same size as the screws. When removing the diffuser screws, insert a tension pin in the hole as you remove each of the screws. The tension pins are hard metal and do not have a head. The diffuser will slip over them. After the diffuser was in place, we turned on the dryer to make sure it was running ok. I noticed what looked like lint toward the front. It was part of the felt gasket on the front of the drum and front of the dryer. We removed the screws on the dryer front and pulled it forward. The felt was rethreaded into its slot, put the front back in place,and replaced the screws that hold everything in place. If you turn the part of the dryer that spins by hand, make sure you are turning it in the correct direction. Turning it the wrong way is probably what caused the felt gasket to come loose causing more work.

Removed top cover by removing 2 screws in front door opening. Then removed front door removing 2 screws, one on each inner side of the front door.
Removed 2 screws on side doors located about 9 inches from bottom of dryer to permit taking off drum. Slip off belt and remove drum.
Thinking I had a bad bearing, I decided to turn the dryer on and found out I had a bad motor-still functional but noisy. I had difficulty installing the new belt since there was not access panel (which was mentioned in the service manual), so I decided to take off the left side panel-about 8 screws. With the left side panel off, it was a lot easier to install a new belt and install the new front bearings. I actually did not fix the noise, since I need to replace the motor ($$$). When it goes really bad, I can order it then, and it should not take me long to replace it.

I ordered and replaced the front and rear bearings, including the slides that go on the front bearing. Most of this was un-necessary; replacing the slides would have been sufficient, and much easier to do. Two of the old slides were worn completely away.

I removed the two screws inside the door and popped the top loose. I took the top off to see and have access to the interior. I leaned the front out and inserted the belt around the drum (with my wife's help), replaced the screws and laid the dryer on it's face on a rolled up blanket and proceeded to run the belt around the pulleys (two). The drive pulley was easy but the idler pulley, not so easy. I had to figure out how the pulley arm was supposed to provide tension on the belt. I figured it out by looking at the diagram. It was then I found the idler pulley was broken and fell apart in my hand. I advise that a new pulley be installed at the same time as the belt. Everything I read on your web site helped.

First I got the front bearing, found out I needed the slides too. It was binding at first, so I undid an earlier misadjustment I made (on the back drum mount). and it works!

I was teaching my associate how to do this repair so I showed him how to take off the top of the dryer. Then I showed him how to replace the drum slides. I had him clean out the dryer since we had it apart, and I also showed him how to remove the drum and then reinstall it. This was a very easy repair, and he learned a lot that he otherwise would not have known. Thanks for getting the parts to me so quickly. Rob from Clarks Summit.

Open up the unit's lid first and then removed the front panel. Then I removed the broken belt and then routed the new belt around drum, through the belt tensioner, and onto to the motor pulley. I checked to make sure the belt was securely in place and if it would rotate the drum. Once I was positive it was in place I put the dryer panels back together, plug in the dryer, and tested operation. The only thing that was difficult was trying to figure out the routing of the belt through the tensioner because the old belt wasn't in place anymore. In all it was a 45 minute job.

I removed the front cover and top of the dryer by removing screws visible from opening the dryer door. I then had to figure out exactly how the belt was set around the drum and other pulleys. With the belt around the drum and around the motor rotor, the other pulley had to be very forcibly pushed towards the drum in order to get the belt seated correctly. This being my first dryer repair, I was unsure of how the belt was needed to placed. But eventually figured it out using pictures from the internet. The second pulley required a lot of force and I had to squeeze my hand and arm under the drum of the dryer in order to make the belt fit correctly with enough slack to reach around the second pulley.

Your instructions were execellent
Problem is solve
Thank you

As I pulled each of the 3 bolts, I put a alignment rod into each of the holes. After I pulled the old deflector off, I had basically 3 pins/rods to slip the new deflector on and keep everything in basic alignment. Pulled one rod, reinstalled the bolt, so on and so on. Ran motor for noises or misalignment and had neither. Pretty simple repair.

Took off the top and front of the dryer---really easy, just two screws for each. Put new drum slides (4) on the front/sides of the drum. Then things got a little bit more difficult. Removed the drum entirely, vaccuumed everything out and had to replace the rear bearings. My husband did this part so I can't tell you exactly how he did it. Not too difficult though. The written directions from here were hard to read---need to make a new copy from the original as it's so copied that it's all smudged. Anyway, once we got the new bearings on, we put everything back together. Dryer works like a charm, at a fraction of the cost it would have been to get someone out to do it. Thanks a bunch for the fast service!

All the stores had either a smaller watt or a larger watt and the book suggested always using the correct watt. I was glad to find it on this sight and it was delivered very quickly.