DCXH46EA2WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

1. Unplug dryer from outlet
2. Using Lg. flat screwdriver, pry under the front edge of the top and release two spring tabs
3. Lift up top and tilt back out of your way
4. Unscrew two phillips scews on inside of front panel
5. Lift up and out the front panel. Two spring clips at bottom.
6. Rlease tension on drum belt at the motor. Access panel at rear of dryer.
7.Unscrew 3 screws from inside, center rear of drum.
8. Remove drum through the front of the dryer. You may have to spread the sides apart a little bit for it to fit
9. Lift up on the rear drum bearing to remove it from the bearing retainer. ( U shaped plastic socket)
10. unsrew 2 screws and remove the bearing retainer, ground ball. Ball retainer is on outside of dryer.
11. Vacuum everything--duct, blower, lint trap, ect.
12. Intall new bearing retainer and grounding ball, an assistant is helpful at this time, one to hold ball retainer on rear of dryer, one to screw it in from the inside
13. reassemble remainder of parts in reverse order.

The high pitch squeel was the result of a failing drum bearing. It was particularly evident when first turning on the dryer, but became softer as the dryer heated up. In order to replace the drum bearing, I removed the top panel and front door panel.

The top panel was easily taken off by removing 2-screws from the back edge of the panel, and sliding it back to release it from the front panel seam.

The front panel is more involved, but still relatively easy for your average "do-it-yourselfer". I removed the front door panel by first removing the control panel (4-screws; 2 on top and 2 from the back of the panel). I removed 2 cable assemblies from the control panel via connecters (different sizes so didn't need to mark) and 2-wires attached to the large control panel mode selector (I marked these 2-wires). I set aside the control panel. I removed the front door panel by taking off 6-screws (2 on top, 2 on the bottom, and the remaining 2 on the inside of the panel on either side of the drum). After removing these 6-screws, I carefully pulled the front door panel away from the front of the dryer, carefully releasing 4-alignment latches (2 on either side). The front door panel was still electrically attached to the machine so I had to disconnect a couple more wires. I carefully disconnected 2-wires from the door light assembly and 3 more wires from the door switch (I marked the 3-wires on the door switch). I set aside the front door panel.

From the back of the dryer, I removed the small motor access panel on the bottom left corner. This panel also provides access to the drum belt. I released the drum belt from the motor drive wheel by releasing spring tension at the tensioner. The belt can easily be disconnected from the motor drive wheel and tensioner assemblies.

Removal of the drum was now possible. With the front door panel removed, the front of the drum is maintained in place via a small plastic stop on the top crossmember. I removed this stop prior to removing the drum. With one hand, carefully grabbing the belt that is was loosely draped across the back of the drum, and the other hand holding the front lip of the drum, I provided a quick and forceful upward motion to the back of the drum in order to dislodge the drum shaft from the bearing housing assembly. Once this was accomplished, I simple pulled the drum out of the dryer housing via the front of the machine.

The drum bearing repair kit ordered came with the replacement ball bearing, bearing housing, drum shaft, high-temperature grease, and attaching hardware.

I replaced the drum shaft on the drum via the 4-screws accessed on the drum rear panel.

I removed the old bearing/bearing housing via the 2-screws holding it in place. I wasn't too concerned about loosing the small ball bearing as the kit provided me a new one. I generously applied some high-temperature grease to coat the interior lining of the new bearing housing. I also placed a dab on the back seat where the new ball bearing sits. This helped hold the bearing in place while reattaching it. I reinstalled the bearing housing to finish replacing the repair parts.

Reassembly of the drum is in the reverse order. I paid particular attention to making sure the new drum shaft properly seated with the new drum bearing housing.

After reinstalling the drum and while the front door panel was still off the dryer, it was easy to inspect the blower housing. I found the squirrel cage had broken loose from the molded nut that attaches it to the motor shaft. That would explain the heat problem; the heat was not being exhausted through the duct.

THE SQUIRREL CAGE IS REVERSE THREADED. I was unable to remove the nut from the motor shaft as the design encompasses a metal bushing molded into a plastic nut shaped form. The plastic would not hold up to the force I was applying trying to loosen the squirrel cage. So I ended up removing the entire motor and blower housing assembly from the base

First pry up on the front edge of the top panel of the dryer which is held in place by snap in clips. Pivot the top open and support against wall or other taking care not to pull on wiring harness. Next remove the 2 screws that hold the front panel in place. These are located on the inside of the front panel. The front then snaps loose also. Remove the plastic drum stop located at the top edge of the front of the dryer. Next I removed the 3 drum screws located inside at the back center of the dryer. Next you can you need to remove the belt the motor located at the rear vent panel on the back. Slide the now loose drum out exposing the rear bearing. With a 5/16 end wrench, loosen the 2 screws on either side of the bearing retainer. Assemble the new bearing bracket to match the old one. Apply a liberal amount of supplied lubricant to the pivot ball and plastic retainer. At this point it was helpful to have someone at the rear of the dryer hold the new retainer bracket against the back of the dryer while I tightened the new bearing assembly in. Assemble dryer in reverse.

This unit is a stackable washer&dryer,so first pull unit away from wall atleast 4 foot. Unplug power cord,then take10 dagree front panel off then the control panel off and unplug the 5 connetors if your unit has that many,then lay panel asside. Take dryer door off,makes it easier when putting it all back together. Now take front panel off and the dryer lent tube,now just take the 3 center phillips head screws out and slide drum out. Pull upward on what they call the shaft which held drum on. Now these are the parts you should order. Belt,grounding ball clip,grounding ball,drum support bearing,bearing bracket,and most important part is the shaft. The shaft is ur insurance for the whole job. Use a good grease like white lithium grease and coat the shaft end and the drum support bearing. The grease will cut down on friction for a while,and re assemble the way you took apart. Reminder grounding ball goes behind drum support bearing not in front. Good luck and please vaccum.

1) Disconnect dryer from power.
2) Use a large standard screwdiver to push in 2 clips on the front side of the dryer between the main body and hood. Hood then lifts up on hinges mounted in the back. Secure hood.
3) Pull off timer knob and remove 2 screws.
4) Write down the color sequence of wires attached to old timer.
5) Remove wires to old timer using needle nose plyers grasped at the wire connector.
6) Attach wires in the correct sequence to new timer and reassemble dryer.

Make sure you order a new belt and a new drum glide with the rear drum bearing assembly. If your bearing is worn out, so are the belt and drum glide!

1) Use a flat screw driver or putty knife to release the blind clips that hold the front side of the top of the dryer cabinet down
2) Swing dryer top up and remove two screws that hold the face of the cabinet.
3) Unplug the wiring harness and remove the cabinet face.
4) Remove the 3 screws that hold the drum to the bearing assembly (accessed from inside the drum. This makes it easier to remove the drum as the bearing assembly can be difficult to remove before you see how it snaps together
5) Reach under the drum and take the belt off the motor pulley, then remove the drum
6) Remove the old bearing assembly from the socket (slide up then out)
7) Remove the two screws that hold the bearing socket to the dryer
8) Fasten the new socket to the dryer (you'll need help doing this unless you have REALLY long arms because you have to reach inside the driver and the back of the dryer at the same time)
9) Grease the socket with the supplied high temp grease
10) Bolt the new bearing assembly to the drum and put the new belt around the drum
11) Put the drum back in and snap the bearing socket in and down
12) Guide the new belt around the motor pulley & tensioner
13) Glue the new drum glide / felt piece to the front cabinet
14) Put the cabinet back together

The blower wheel was a bit difficult, but manigable to do yourself.

The repair actually was quite easy but diagnosing the problem was another story. I found out that the dryer would not buzz and vibrate , if I just ran the fluff cycle but no heat. As soon as heat applied, the slight buzzing and slight vibrating would occur after a few minutes. I knew it wasn't the drum bearing, the drum rollers, the rubbing collar on front of drum, idle arm, belt, etc - I had replaced all of them less than a year ago. Anything I found on the internet dealing with the motor was always geared around not running or slow starting or shutting down, loud buzzing, needing a push start to start, etc but that was not the case. So I figured it was the blower housing and ordered that part. However, once I had the machine apart the blower housing seemed to be just fine - nothing obvious, everything tight. The one issue I had was removing the plastic nut with the metal insert on the blower unit that attaches it to the motor shaft which just wouldn't bulge. So I said to myself, the h*ll with it, lets get a new motor, too and remove both parts together which btw, was very easy. So that is exactly what I did. Now with new motor in hand and new blower housing in hand, I easily removed the old motor still attached to the old blower housing together and replaced both which was very easy. Hooked everything back up and no more soft buzzing or slight vibration. Now back to the problem or my guess at this point. I noticed that the rubber mounting bushing in the back of the motor which is used to attached it to the dryer bracket was funking looking - kinda soft and a bit perished. So I am surmising that once heat was introduced, it was enough to soften that bushing enough to cause the slight buzzing and slight vibration but without the heat to soften the bushing a bit, it was quiet and steady. Just a guess but for anyone that has this issue with just heat but no issue with fluff (no heat) check out the condition of that rubber mounting bushing on the rear of the motor. No where on the internet was there any info concerning the symptoms I had and I was flying by the seat of my pants. So am taking the time to get this on record in case someone else has these symptoms and finds it.

Unpluged the dryer, took out the light assembly, unpluged the wires to the unit, replaced the old unit with new unit from Partselect.
Plugged dryer in, problem fixed.
Taa Daa

Thanks, PARTSELECT.

That saved me about $50.00 YAHOO!!

I noticed for sometime that my dryer had been sqeeking...but I had thought nothing of it. It got alot louder as time went on and then one day the drum stopped spinning. Not to mention I had my son's 5th birthday party in 3 days. So I went online and found parts select. They sent me the whole assembly and I got it the day before the birthday, and it only took me 30 mins to replace it. Thank you, Parts Select for the prompt response and saving me for the embarrasment of having clothes all over the floor.

After the part arrived, I located a pair of needle nose pliers. Then removed the broken one and inserted the new one. It was very easy.
I also noted that the new part was of a better design than the original. It should not need further attention.

While my wife was using the dryer, she noticed a loud sound and sparks coming from the bottom of the dryer (and an elctrical smell). The dryer stopped heating. When I started taking off the top and front of the dryer, I noticed what looked like a thermostat had melted and burned. I called a local part store and they said they would have to order it and it would take two weeks. But the guy was kind enough to give me the part number and told me to call anothe store. Instead I went online, found this site and the next day I had the part. It took me less than an hour to install it and reassemble the dryer. Me and my wife were very pleased.

I determined the problem was the fan wheel and housing. I located the part on partsselect.com, Ordered it and installed the afternoon I got it in the mail. Perfect fit.

I have used partsselect before, always had great luck, great prices, always have the exact part.

I watched videos so I would know what I was doing. Well No, My thermostat was in the front of the dryer. But after a little blood and sweat, and I am not kidding, I got the front off. I ordered my new part. Finally got it in Spent $40.00 and it still doesn't work. I know it was the right part. I checked all the trouble shooting web site. That was the only thing they said it would be. Friends advice tell me it is the brains of the thing and I need a new one. Well not 2 weeks before Christmas. Thanks for asking. Single hard working mom.

Removed back of the control panel. Removed 2 screws unplugged the wires. Plugged wires into the new timer, put the back cover on. Worked great.
The repair man was going to charge us twice the cost of the part ($150) plus labor. He even recommended buying a new dryer rather then putting the money into fixing this one!