PTMN940GMWS0 General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Removed two screws inside the door at the top of the frame. This allowed the top to be lifted and slid to the left a bit which allowed the front of the dryer to be removed. The Drum Bearing was held on with plastic tabs and the Bearing slides just fitted over a small tab then into a slot. There is a "knockout" for the light which is removed. The entire process took less than 15 minutes.

Unplugged power to dryer. Opened door and removed the two screws that hold the top panel on. Removed top panel and set aside. Then removed the two screws that hold the front panel secure and leaned front panel towards me. Replaced parts with absolutely no tools. Reverse steps to assemble dryer. The videos are very informative and give you the confidence you need to do it yourself.

2 Screws hold top on, removed top, 2 more screws hold front panel with door on, removed front panel. Unclipped front drum bearing installed new one with new sliders put back together.

Removed two screws, lifted the top, removed two more screws and tilted the front panel. The worn parts were accessible, and I simply placed the new parts in. It worked. A little trouble placing the top back in the slots, but a fist whack did the job.

I followed the instructional video that was given online. The parts fit well, and was easy to repair.

Remove the old bearing assembly and Replaced with the new bearing assembly with new bearing slides.

Watched tecnician (I paid) as he diagnosed the problem. Four screws take of the top and front. Clothes drum slides out. Access to valve is good. Valve attaches to feed via compression fitting. Male end of fitting on unit is moved to new unit via allen wrench. Drive belt is re attached around drum and over idler easily. Part cost $90.00 shipp0ed to me. Technician asked $375.00 for this repair. Access the parts via placing the model number on Google Search.

Follow the instructions from YOUTUBE to replace the new drive belt..

After unplugging the dryer, I removed 2 metal screws up under the dryer sill rim, and removed the dryer top. Then, removed two more at the top of the front (door) section to remove it.

I wasn't careful enough when removing the door, and the wiring connectors popped loose from their connections. No harm done, though. Disconnect the wires once you remove the front panel.

I had to loosen the bottom metal screws on one side panel to have enough give to pull the dryer drum out.

The only way to replace the belt is to bend over the side of this unit and with one hand put the belt around the motor drive shaft, pull the tension pulley back, and put the belt on the wheel.

The hard part is working the drum back into place while VERY carefully slipping the belt into the drum goove. Many attempts were made only to have the belt slip off of the tension pulley or motor driveshaft. Be care full to turn the drum clock wise if the belt twists while working it into the drum groove. It was very disappointing to finally get the belt on, and work the drum back into place only to discover I had twisted the belt with the smooth side making contact on the driveshaft. Thus, I started over.

Aiming the drum into the back of the dryer is a tough task. I recommend a 1" X 4 " X 12" board to slip under the drum when beginning this process to help stablize, and guide the drum. It helped me tremendously, and was easy to remove out from under the drum once everything was back in place.

Use gloves. Yes, tough to work with in small places, and I did take them off to replace the belt around the tension pulley, however, there are too many sharp edges on the metal body of the dryer and especially the drum to do so without gloves.

Wires were easy to reattach and reassembly was smooth except for the top...check out the tabs, and spring tabs before you try and just plop the top back on. It goes a certain way...You'll know what i am talking about when you do this task.

I truly hope you have L O N G arms to do this task, and that the new belt lasts a long, long time!

I followed the directions I found on my tablet on youtube.

loosened two hose clamps and four screws to replace the anti siphon valve.

Unplug the dryer. Remove top panel (remove two screws on the upper inside edge of the dryer door). Lift the front panel from front (tabs and slots at the back) and lift off. Remove the front panel (remove a screw from each side - top/front). Front panel sits on two feet at the bottom, tilt it forward from the top and lift it up (careful not to damage the electrical connection at the bottom left side). I found the dryer had another damaged part (plastic guide that the Slide WH and the Drum Slides connected to was badly worn). After ordering the additional part I attached the slides (white and gray) to the guide. Set the front panel back on the two feet and tilt it back into place (you'll need to slightly raise the drum back into position - easy). Replace the two screws that connect the front panel. Replace the top cover. The whole repair took less than 1/2 an hour including the time it took to vacuum out the dust. Total cost, about $35!

Poped the top off took out two screws, pulled the front off removed the old parts and put in the new ones.

We had a squeeking sound coming from our dryer which I felt was probably the belt. When I removed the front of the unit and saw the condition of the slodes and drum bearin, I ordered a set from PartsSelect.com. It only took about 20 minutes to repale the parts, and 5 of that was figuring out the bearing just "snaps on" (I was afraid to just yank it for fear of breaking something else). Probably saved like $75 or so between the parts markup and a service call by doing it myself.

inside dryer door housing i removed two screws these hold top of dreyer on.pulled dryer top up and it unhooks from control panel.theres two more screws inside the front door asembly located at the top on booth sides.remove them and the front is free except for dryer door switch.lean it back far enough to unpug wires.lay door asembly on the floor.drum slide pops out with screw driver at the top the bottom just slides out.drum bearigs are plastic strips on the drum slide. pull the old ones out if their is any left.replace with new.you need four drum bearings.then put back together the ame as you took it apart. good luck terry