GDR977KW439 General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Easier than I thought it would be. I was hoping it was the front bearing because replacing the rear bearing looked pretty gnarly. Unplugged the dryer from the outlet. Removed two screws inside the door frame. Lifted the top off. Unscrewed the two screws holding the front on. Lifted the front panel off, careful of the wires going to the door. Popped out the old front bearing by releasing the two clips at the top. The old bearing was pretty trashed. The two grey/green slides were in tatters and one of the white ones was missing. Not too much lint inside the dryer, but the lint trap was pretty clogged. Cleaned the insides out with the shop-vac. Inserted the new slides into the new bearing an snapped it back into place, careful to make sure the light went in the hole. The felt gasket at the botton was in good shape so did not replace it. Replaced the panels screwed them back to together and it fired up smooth and quiet.

I watched video supplied from parts select, only took about 30 minutes, hardest part was putting belt back on, couldn't fit hands in easily, but once I did it, dryer is like new, can't hear a thing.

Had to tap three holes in the rear bearing to match the three attachment screws. Screw up with the part.

I followed the varied instructions out there for getting the dryer open. WATCH the videos on uTube; I took out more screws than needed on first attempt -- which isn't a big deal but took me longer than it should have to pull it apart. It appeared the grinding was coming from the dryer bearings due to some abrasion I could see and worn front slides, so I replaced the front slides (4) and the rear bearing. The kids helped by crawling inside the drum to tighten the new bearing bolts (just for fun). When I put it back together it was making a somewhat different grinding noise. It wouldn't make any noise until I put the belt AND front cover on and then it would make a periodic (about every 10 degrees) grind when I rotated the drum; I took it apart and the grinding would stop even if I rotated the blower by hand. Put it together, the grind would start .... It took me awhile to figure out that the blower retaining bolt had come loose so the plastic blower was grinding on the metal cover. CHECK THE BLOWER RETAINING BOLT visible from the front with the dryer door/cover off -- it's not obvious that it's loose by looking at it since the retaining clip still sits over the blower shaft even when it's loose. You might even see small nicks in the blower fan blade. It's super quiet now.

I used a flashlight & looked through the grill inside the drum & found a broken element/coil. Searched this great website, ordered the parts.(found I needed some drum slides while disassemling the machine) Picked through the various procedures used by others on this site & took the advice that made the most sense. Followed the coil stretching directions closely. Re-assembled. Works great. Relatively simple, but takes time to disassemble/reassemble. I think anyone with a little common sense, & some mechanical abilities should be successful.

Ordered the recommended parts on-line and they showed up the next day. I followed the on-line repair video that described it all step-by-step.

Unscrew two screws at front that go upward to remove top. Lift up and remove top. Undo 2 screws at top front corners to remove front. Will have to disconnect two wires on inside bottom left front. Remove square metal piece at bottom right of back to get access to inside. Go through here to remove belt from pulley system. Take picture to help in reinstalling belt. Remove drum by pulling forward. Will have to remove screw 3/4 way down on right front to loosen the side in order to get drum out. Check continuity if you have a continuity tester. Look for broken coils. Disconnect wires from heating element. Take pictures. Remove heating element and remove and replace coils as indicated in directions that come with heating coils. reassemble in reverse order.

It took a while to diagnose the problem. I finally figured out it was the door switch by pushing it with my finger with the dryer door open and starting the dryer. It would run like that, but the switch was not being pressed in enough by the door. I ordered the switch and I should have been able to replace in about 15 min. But the old switch broke while I was removing it and it fell back inside the unit. So I had to remove the top and the front panel to access the door switch. That's why it took so long. If that had not happened it would have been a much simpler repair.

To get to where the drum slides go you have to first remove the dryer top. Then you have to remove the two screws that hold the dryer front/door. Found inside the dryer about an inch down on both sides. Be careful because it will fall off. Lower carefully as there is an electric hook-up on the bottom of the door. On the door top are the brackets that the slides slip into. My dryer has 4 slides. Sold individually for some reason. You are done except for re-assembly. Slip dryer drum back on door, press the front until you hear it click back together. Put screws back in and top back on. You are done and no more screeching!

Simply popped the old broken part out and popped the new part into place. I wasn't sure if it was the Latch Door or the Door Strike. Once the parts arrived, it was clear the Door Strike was not the issue.

Followed the video on this site but did not have to remove wires. Just stand in front and let the front panel rest on your leg while you replace the slides. Quick and Easy!!!!

Removed 2 screws from inside door lifted top panel up,removed 1 screw attaching front panel to left side. Pulled front panel out far enough to remove and replace slider bearing.

inserted the latch into the opening in the front face of the dryer

Opened the door and removed 2 screws from inside/top of door. Removed top and then removed 2 screws from back of front panel. Lifted drum slightly to remove front panel and attached new slides.

Removed door strike and latch, replaced, works like new.