PTMP920EMWS0 General Electric Dryer - Instructions

The gentleman knew what the problem was, sent the right part, and I looked like I was smart.

It went perfect , just put it in. No tools needed.

The parts came very quickly, and they were the exacxt parts which made installation very easy.
Just open the dryer door, there are 2 screws to remove right above the dryer door that holds the top plate of the dryer. slide the top of the dryer top off by pulling up and ouyt towards you. There are 2 screws that hold the front of the dryer, remove the 2 screws and the front of the dryer will come out towards you. The drum will fall a litttle towards you.
I let the dryer front lean on my leg and snapped out the bearing and drum slides replaced it with the new one. Reverse the order of taking it apart
Now my dryer sounds as quiet as the first day I bought it.

We had a squeeking sound coming from our dryer which I felt was probably the belt. When I removed the front of the unit and saw the condition of the slodes and drum bearin, I ordered a set from PartsSelect.com. It only took about 20 minutes to repale the parts, and 5 of that was figuring out the bearing just "snaps on" (I was afraid to just yank it for fear of breaking something else). Probably saved like $75 or so between the parts markup and a service call by doing it myself.

Parts were easy to take out and replace with the new ones.

inside dryer door housing i removed two screws these hold top of dreyer on.pulled dryer top up and it unhooks from control panel.theres two more screws inside the front door asembly located at the top on booth sides.remove them and the front is free except for dryer door switch.lean it back far enough to unpug wires.lay door asembly on the floor.drum slide pops out with screw driver at the top the bottom just slides out.drum bearigs are plastic strips on the drum slide. pull the old ones out if their is any left.replace with new.you need four drum bearings.then put back together the ame as you took it apart. good luck terry

Pull the old lint trap out. Slid new one in

loosened two hose clamps and four screws to replace the anti siphon valve.

Piece of cake, mostly because of the nice exploded drawing that was on the site when ordering the parts, it was easy to identify what was needed and order it.

I will never call a repair man again :-)

open door, remove two screws from below the top. gently remove the top from the side and bottom panels. remove two 5/16 screws from front panel hold panel so it does not fall. the bearing assembly will come out by moving the bearing towards the dryer, and pulling upwards. replace with new bearing, use 4 front dryer slides and reinstall the top and front panel. can be done in less than 15 minutes

This took less than 10 minutes to complete. 1) pull off the top of the dryer and remove the two screws that attach the front panel to the side panels. Once you pull the front panel towards you, away from the side panels, you can remove the front bearing. Be sure to be careful not to pull apart the wiring on the left side of the front panel. If you do, it is easy re-attached by hand. The front roller bearing of he drum can be removed by hand. Simply pull upward, with a steady pressure, on the bearing. It will snap out with this gradual pressure. The slide can be inserted by hand, with the two gray slide at 11 and 1 o'clock and the wite slide at 10 and 2 o'clock. The new bearing will snap into place by hand. Carefully insert the light bulb into the hole in the top of the new bearing whle snapping into place. The web site provides a good diagram that illustrates the various pieces and assembly. Once the bearing is in place, lift the dryer drum and set on top of the bearing as you re-attach the front panel to the side panels with the screws removed earlier. Replace the top by snapping back into place. Less than 10 minutes.

Removed two screws to remove top to access drum. Removed two screws to remove front panel. Easily removed drum bearing and snapped in new bearing. 4 Glides were slid into slots. Only one problem. My service parts list called for drum bearing #WE3X37. I was sent #WE3M26. I was assured this was the right part for my dryer. Although the part did fit, I was unable to use the existing light because the the hole on new bearing was too small to accommodate it. Replacement of drum bearing would not be necessary if GE would put visible labels on dryer warning consumers of preventive maintenance of glides that wear.

The dryer was very noisy when it would start. The drum had warn the pads out and the drum was riding on the drum bearing. It really isn't a bearing more of a big piece of plastic. On the bearing are 4 slides (2 white and 2 green). These are easy to replace if the bearing is good. I let mine go too long and wore part of the bearing off. To fix: UNPLUG! Open the door and find 2 screws facing upward screwed into the top. Remove these 2 screws and remove the top. Take notice of how it comes out of the dash. On each side of the front panel (from inside) there is a smaller screw with a bigger head, remove both of these. You can now lift the front panel away from the drum and pull the front panel right out. It would be a good time to take a shop vac and clean all the lint out of this. Mine was almost full. If you are changing the bearing it is held in place with clips built on the bearing. Remove and replace. Put on the new slides as well. There is a little tab on the bearing and a hole in the slide. put the hole over the tab. The green ones I put on the top and the whites on the outter sides. Put the bottom of the panel in first and line up the drum on the new bearing, replace the 2 big headed screws, line up the top in the dash and lower into position, replace the 2 screws up inside the door and you are done. I have no dryer experience and would rate this job on a scale of 1-10 to about a 3 or a 4. There were no real suprizes.

Dryer started making screeching noises while running, got progressively worse. Without taking it apart first, I ordered a front drum bearing and slides because this site said it fixed the problem the majority of the time. The site said replace the slides in pairs, but there are actually four. I picked up 2 more at a local appliance store, at roughly twice the price. Turned out I didn't need th replace the plastic piece called drum bearing, just the 4 slides that clip onto it. It is really easy to get the top and front off with just a phillips screwdriver. I did not check the rear center main bearing, as it requred removing the drum. The squealing lessended but it still was bad. Took it back apart and pulled the drum, and fount the rear main bearing bad. I found one at the same local store for only 2 bucks more than on this site. This was a bit more of a hassle, you really need two people to get it mounted to the drum. Tip-pre thread the holes with the self tapping screws, it makes it easier to get it together. There was a bit of lint build up under the drum heating element cover, so it was good to clean that out. Also blew all the dirt out of the motor with compressed air and shop vac. There was a access panel on back to get to the motor and belt tensioner. Got the dryer all buttoned up and now it runs nice and quiet.

Un plug the dryer. Gather phillip, flat head and torix screw drivers. Remove the rear of the dryer to get the spec sheet with the appropriate part number. Next called for part. Belt installation requires removal of front and top of dryer in order to slide belt over the drum. Getting to all the fastners requires tilting the dryer on its back. Clean out excess lint from dryer interior and duct work. Slide drive belt over drum and use some masking tape to hold it in position. Reassemble dyer. Return dryer to upright position and put the belt on the pully and tensioner from rear access port. Remove tape. Replace access panel. Reattach vent duct work. Plug in. There are 5-6 different size screws holding everything together...you may want to use masking tape to label where each type of screw goes. All totaled it took about an hour and cost less that $25. Well worth the effort.