PTMN940EMWS0 General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Remove the old bearing assembly and Replaced with the new bearing assembly with new bearing slides.

Dryer was making a horrible noise. When I took it apart I noticed that the from side dryer bearing was ruined. Ordered the part with the slide bars and replaced...Works great...

Our gas GE "Eterna" King Sized capacity dryer started squeaking one day. I was suprised since the dryer was only a few years old, but assumed some grit had invaded and worn a bearing in the belt tensioner. My wife and I have three kids, so we use the dryer daily. The sound got louder quickly and finally it was so loud I had do something. After unplugging the appliance I took the top off the dryer (two screws in the top of the door jam) and the front off (two screws at the top of each corner) and in doing so saw that the drum bearing, which is just a round plastic
"shelf" on which the tumbler drum rides, suspended over the door, was worn through. There were four little "slides" on the bearing surface, and all but one was worn down to dust. I ordered the replacement bearing and slides (two white, I didn't know I also needed two green and have since bought them too) from Part Select and they arrived in about three days. In the meantime I re-assembled the dryer easily and we did use it once or twice, shrieking. When the parts came in I installed them in about 20 minutes, screwing the new bearing onto the rear surface of the front panel, right over the opening for the dryer door. The dryer has worked perfectly since. I used one Phillips head screwdriver for the whole job and paid about $50.00 for the parts. I work in an office and I travel, and when I was a kid I fixed my own cars and stuff, but I'm no appliance repairma! Nevertheless, this was easy! I assume I saved at least $100. The dryer works perfectly and more importantly, it's quiet again!

Looked at the diagram on your web site and replaced part

Parts were easy to take out and replace with the new ones.

loosened two hose clamps and four screws to replace the anti siphon valve.

Unplug the dryer. Remove top panel (remove two screws on the upper inside edge of the dryer door). Lift the front panel from front (tabs and slots at the back) and lift off. Remove the front panel (remove a screw from each side - top/front). Front panel sits on two feet at the bottom, tilt it forward from the top and lift it up (careful not to damage the electrical connection at the bottom left side). I found the dryer had another damaged part (plastic guide that the Slide WH and the Drum Slides connected to was badly worn). After ordering the additional part I attached the slides (white and gray) to the guide. Set the front panel back on the two feet and tilt it back into place (you'll need to slightly raise the drum back into position - easy). Replace the two screws that connect the front panel. Replace the top cover. The whole repair took less than 1/2 an hour including the time it took to vacuum out the dust. Total cost, about $35!

Poped the top off took out two screws, pulled the front off removed the old parts and put in the new ones.

inside dryer door housing i removed two screws these hold top of dreyer on.pulled dryer top up and it unhooks from control panel.theres two more screws inside the front door asembly located at the top on booth sides.remove them and the front is free except for dryer door switch.lean it back far enough to unpug wires.lay door asembly on the floor.drum slide pops out with screw driver at the top the bottom just slides out.drum bearigs are plastic strips on the drum slide. pull the old ones out if their is any left.replace with new.you need four drum bearings.then put back together the ame as you took it apart. good luck terry

We had a squeeking sound coming from our dryer which I felt was probably the belt. When I removed the front of the unit and saw the condition of the slodes and drum bearin, I ordered a set from PartsSelect.com. It only took about 20 minutes to repale the parts, and 5 of that was figuring out the bearing just "snaps on" (I was afraid to just yank it for fear of breaking something else). Probably saved like $75 or so between the parts markup and a service call by doing it myself.

Replacing the front slides is easy. Just buy the parts and pop them in. The rear drum bearing is also easy, and you do not have to spend $50. Once I had the parts in hand, which is an axle from the rear of the drum and a bearing sleeve from the rear of the dryer cabinet, it looked quite simple and it is. I went to a hardward store, bought a bronze bearing that fit the axle and the sleeve and a C-clip. Cut the bearing to the correct length with a pipe cutter, and retain over the axle with the clip. Grease it up, and put the dryer back together. Total cost, $5. It works great.

Well, the intall would have been great except for the fact that I needed another part. If your belt breaks there is a reason for it. Make sure you check all the parts that work with the belt. Their was a pully the was defective and also need to be replaces. I think it would be a good idea to put a little note on the page for the Belt Drive to let people know that if you are replaceing the belt you might want to check the Idler Pully for it too might need to be replaces. I'm not an expert and if that was on the page for the Belt Drive I might have look at the pully before I ordered and I would have ordered the part along with the Belt Drive. As it was had to wait another 4 day to get my dryer fixed. I'm very happy the Parts Select has all my parts and they pretty good at getting them out to me in a good amount of time when I need them.

removed top, 2ea screws ;removed front door,2 screws; removed left side panel,screws on bottom and back; removed belt,pulled out drum. replaced top drum bearing,installed green and white slides,re assembled w/ new belt,ops. check ok.

Un plug the dryer. Gather phillip, flat head and torix screw drivers. Remove the rear of the dryer to get the spec sheet with the appropriate part number. Next called for part. Belt installation requires removal of front and top of dryer in order to slide belt over the drum. Getting to all the fastners requires tilting the dryer on its back. Clean out excess lint from dryer interior and duct work. Slide drive belt over drum and use some masking tape to hold it in position. Reassemble dyer. Return dryer to upright position and put the belt on the pully and tensioner from rear access port. Remove tape. Replace access panel. Reattach vent duct work. Plug in. There are 5-6 different size screws holding everything together...you may want to use masking tape to label where each type of screw goes. All totaled it took about an hour and cost less that $25. Well worth the effort.

Dryer started making screeching noises while running, got progressively worse. Without taking it apart first, I ordered a front drum bearing and slides because this site said it fixed the problem the majority of the time. The site said replace the slides in pairs, but there are actually four. I picked up 2 more at a local appliance store, at roughly twice the price. Turned out I didn't need th replace the plastic piece called drum bearing, just the 4 slides that clip onto it. It is really easy to get the top and front off with just a phillips screwdriver. I did not check the rear center main bearing, as it requred removing the drum. The squealing lessended but it still was bad. Took it back apart and pulled the drum, and fount the rear main bearing bad. I found one at the same local store for only 2 bucks more than on this site. This was a bit more of a hassle, you really need two people to get it mounted to the drum. Tip-pre thread the holes with the self tapping screws, it makes it easier to get it together. There was a bit of lint build up under the drum heating element cover, so it was good to clean that out. Also blew all the dirt out of the motor with compressed air and shop vac. There was a access panel on back to get to the motor and belt tensioner. Got the dryer all buttoned up and now it runs nice and quiet.