GTD45EASJ1WS General Electric Dryer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- robert from phenix city, AL
- Parts Used:
- WE03X31620, WE03X29897
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
belt was broken.
remove top of cabinet and front panel. placed belt around drum and replaced idler pully placed new belt around pully and was done. not a hard job at all. replced front panel and top. thanks to a speedy delivery of my parts dryer was only down two days.
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- Customer:
- Scott from NOVATO, CA
- Parts Used:
- WE01X25160
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Needed a shoe rack
Lift the lint filter and slide the 2 hooked ends into the 2 holes provided . Front end is locked in as other end is suspended .
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- Customer:
- James from DOUGLAS, GA
- Parts Used:
- WE01X24720, WE04X24551, WE01X24552
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
DRYER TIMER KNOB WOULD NOT MOVE....CRACKED THE KNOW
REMOVED BACK COVER
REMOVED THE SCREW HOLDING THE COMPONENT TO THE FRONT
TOOK PHOTO OF HOW THE COLOR WIRES CONNECT
REMOVED THE WIRE (TOOK THE LONGEST, HAD TO USE NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS TO BREAK THE TAB FEMALE TAB LOCKS.
RE-WIRED THE NEW CONTROL
PUT PLATE BACK ON
DRY NOW RUNS AS INTENDED
REMOVED THE SCREW HOLDING THE COMPONENT TO THE FRONT
TOOK PHOTO OF HOW THE COLOR WIRES CONNECT
REMOVED THE WIRE (TOOK THE LONGEST, HAD TO USE NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS TO BREAK THE TAB FEMALE TAB LOCKS.
RE-WIRED THE NEW CONTROL
PUT PLATE BACK ON
DRY NOW RUNS AS INTENDED
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- Customer:
- Ronald from CORP CHRISTI, TX
- Parts Used:
- WE04X26139
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Dryer would not start.
Found the dryer's high limit thermostat had opened up.
Likely cause was excessive lint buildup in exhaust vent pipe to outside.
Used wire nuts to "temporarily" bypass thermostat and cleaned out the vent pipe
When new part arrived...
Removed control panel screws and panel was laid on top of dryer
Removed back panel screws.
Removed top panel screws. Lifted to allow right side swing out slightly.
I did not have sufficient tool to reach the thermostat therefore I reamed out a hole in the rear panel above the thermostat fastener screw to allow a long handle screwdriver into the area for replacement.
Removed temporary bypass and used wire nuts to utilize dryers' thermostat existing wiring.
Likely cause was excessive lint buildup in exhaust vent pipe to outside.
Used wire nuts to "temporarily" bypass thermostat and cleaned out the vent pipe
When new part arrived...
Removed control panel screws and panel was laid on top of dryer
Removed back panel screws.
Removed top panel screws. Lifted to allow right side swing out slightly.
I did not have sufficient tool to reach the thermostat therefore I reamed out a hole in the rear panel above the thermostat fastener screw to allow a long handle screwdriver into the area for replacement.
Removed temporary bypass and used wire nuts to utilize dryers' thermostat existing wiring.
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- Customer:
- Tim from Pembroke, NH
- Parts Used:
- WE4M416
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Dryer only runs when Start button is pressed
Originally I thought that the Start switch was the issue, and ordered one. After taking the machine apart and running some tests, the issue was clearly not this switch, but a different switch that cuts power when the belt tension is no longer being applied to the idler pulley spring. I fixed this by bypassing this switch, which in my opinion, is error prone and serves no purpose. The switch can be accessed by removing the control panel, then top cover, then front cover, then drum. The bogus switch is screwed to the bottom left, near the motor. The idler pulley spring rests against it. Just disconnect the switch wires, then clip, strip and crimp then together to bypass the switch, and voila! Now if the belt breaks or comes off the pulley, the motor will continue to run, but you wont hear the wet clothes flopping around, so that will be the indication that you have a belt problem. Hope that helps!
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- Customer:
- Michael from MILLEDGEVILLE, GA
- Parts Used:
- WE01X24552
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
old timer knop cracked
stuck new knob on spindle.
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- Customer:
- Sydrell from CHICAGO, IL
- Parts Used:
- WE03X23881
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
the bracket around the net was cracked
removed old lint trap cleaned excess lint that fell inside from the broken lint trap made it easier for new lint trap to slide in.
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- Customer:
- Armando from WESTMINSTER, CO
- Parts Used:
- WE03X23956
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Dryer drum started making a grinding noise and started to smell like something was burning
Took the front panel off. 2 screws on top of the front panel when you open the door, 2 right next to the door opening. Next gently pry up the top panel in the front of the dryer to remove 2 black screws in the front corners. Now the front panel can gently be pulled back and then lift up and the frpnt panel can be put to side. Now you have acces to remove and replace the drum bearing glides. They just clip in. Also a good time to inspect the belt and clean out the dryer.
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- Customer:
- Pamela from BUFFALO, NY
- Parts Used:
- WE01X24552
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
dryer timer knob
Dryer knob was not clicking on timer. Took knob off &saw that was a crack in it. Looked up model #&went on your website&ordered the same knob. Received quickly. Put the new knob on &itworked.Just had to line up 2 flats parts on knob & dryer.went right on.
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- Customer:
- Lisa from YOAKUM, TX
- Parts Used:
- WE04X28977, WE05X20431
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
WOULD NOT START/ stopped in the middle of cycle
Ordered parts and installed with YOUTUBE video.
Model A little different than showed online, There was a Metal protector over the Door switch that need to be taken off before switch could be located.
After detachment of dryer door, easily pushed the seal to one side to dislocate the metal protector.
Would of took 30 minutes to complete if had not been for the Metal protector they added to cover the switch.
Model A little different than showed online, There was a Metal protector over the Door switch that need to be taken off before switch could be located.
After detachment of dryer door, easily pushed the seal to one side to dislocate the metal protector.
Would of took 30 minutes to complete if had not been for the Metal protector they added to cover the switch.
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- Customer:
- gerard from goldsboro, NC
- Parts Used:
- WE09X27634
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
the felt in front door worn out
i follow your video and all went well except now the dryer will not heat. i went back on your site an tried the no heat option an still no heat
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- Customer:
- DENNIS from ELIZABETHTOWN, KY
- Parts Used:
- WE04X26139
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Dryer would not start
After checking the obvious things such as household circuit breaker and verifying that the dryer power outlet did indeed have the proper voltage supply, I started troubleshooting the dryer itself. The "partselect.com" website has a lot of good troubleshooting information. I used it to narrow my search and began by checking the fuse located where the power cord connects to the dryer. From there I used the information that the website provided for finding and checking the overtempt switch for the dryer. It's located in a very hard position to get to, and it was indeed bad. I ordered a new one from the "partselect.com" website and started checking my dryer exhaust vent hose for a blockage, as that was the most practical cause for the overtempt switch to fail. Once I verified that the exhaust was clear from any obstruction, I set my sights on removing the bad overtempt switch.
I have over 30 years' experience troubleshooting and repairing both AC and DC electrical and electronic circuits and systems. I'm 6'4" and have very big hands and it was next to impossible for me to get my hands in a position to loosen and remove the 1 screw that was holding the switch in place. After an hour or so I was finally able to remove the switch. There was no way that I was going to be able to successfully install the new switch due to the lack of space. I ended up going back to the "partselect.com" website to see if anyone else had this same issue and found a way to overcome it. After few minutes of reading thru different installation comments from other people, I found one that had the key to quickly and accurately installing the switch. This person used a drill and drilled a hole in the back panel of the dryer to gain access to the screw that holds the switch in place. So, I drilled a small 1/8" hole in the back panel directly across from where the head of the screw was. I used several more drill bits and worked my way up to a 1/2" sized bit. Then, I used a 1/4" drive socket set with a 10" extension and 1/4" socket to install the screw retaining the switch. I reassembled the dryer and have had no other trouble since.
I have over 30 years' experience troubleshooting and repairing both AC and DC electrical and electronic circuits and systems. I'm 6'4" and have very big hands and it was next to impossible for me to get my hands in a position to loosen and remove the 1 screw that was holding the switch in place. After an hour or so I was finally able to remove the switch. There was no way that I was going to be able to successfully install the new switch due to the lack of space. I ended up going back to the "partselect.com" website to see if anyone else had this same issue and found a way to overcome it. After few minutes of reading thru different installation comments from other people, I found one that had the key to quickly and accurately installing the switch. This person used a drill and drilled a hole in the back panel of the dryer to gain access to the screw that holds the switch in place. So, I drilled a small 1/8" hole in the back panel directly across from where the head of the screw was. I used several more drill bits and worked my way up to a 1/2" sized bit. Then, I used a 1/4" drive socket set with a 10" extension and 1/4" socket to install the screw retaining the switch. I reassembled the dryer and have had no other trouble since.
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- Customer:
- Lewis from WESTFIELD, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WE03X31620, WE03X29897
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Noisey squeaking noise.
Replaced the rear drum bearing, Front drum bearing,front bearing tabs and belt. I replaced the belt from the front of dryer. Better to go thru the back. Much easier.
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- Customer:
- ruoli from Germantown, MD
- Parts Used:
- WE03X29897
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Dryer's drum doesn't run
Follow YouTube "how to change dryer's belt" some video is very clear.
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- Customer:
- Darin from MEDINA, MN
- Parts Used:
- WE03X37320, WE03X37319
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Replace dryer front bearing slides
If your dryer is making a grinding or loud plastic rubbing noise, you likely need to replace the slides. Here is how I did it.
TIP: Before beginning, set out a hand towel on the washing machine to set the screws onto, in the order and position you removed them.
IMPORTANT: Before beginning, turn off the gas to the unit and unplug it! This repair is all done from the front side of the machine, so you should only need to slide it out enough to unplug it.
Step 1: Remove the control panel
To do this, you need to pull out on the round silver control knob to remove it. This will expose a long screw. With the long screw removed, grab the panel with both hands and slide it straight up. Be careful, the control board is still connected with a 40-pin ribbon cable. Set the control board on top of the dryer temporarily.
Step 2: Remove the lid
There are three screws to remove the lid. Remove them and set them on the screw holding towel. The lid is attached at the back, so to remove it you need to slide it forward towards the front of the unit. Once the lid is loose, you can have a helper hold the control panel while you set the lid aside, or gently let the control panel dangle.
Step 3: Disconnect the control panel and wiring harnesses
Gently pull on the 40-pin ribbon connector until the control panel ribbon cable is removed. There is a notch to designate which direction the ribbon cable it goes back in. Set the control panel to the side. At the same time, you can disconnect the two wiring harnesses that feed the door light and sensor. These wiring harnesses are secured to a silver plate with a zip tie. Cut the zip tie with your diagonal cutters. (You can trim the old zip tie and replace it by feeding the extra small zip tie through the original opening later.)
Step 4: Remove the steel plate that the wiring harnesses were attached to
There are 6 screws to remove the steel plate. Pay attention to where the extra large head screws go, because these are what the control panel slides onto, when you put things back together. Pull out on each side to release the bottom clips, then slide it upwards. Set this piece aside.
Step 4: Remove the front panel (the door panel)
There are 4 screws to loosen the door panel. Two silver screws at the top, and 2 white screws at the bottom. Loosen the white screws about half way. These do not need to be completely removed because the door can rest on them. Remove the top silver screws. Gently lift the dryer drum off the front bezel while you tilt the front panel towards you. At this point you should be able to see the white and dark green slides. I found it easier to lift the front door off the white screws and set it up against the wall.
Step 5: Replace the slides
The slides have plastic hooks that go through the round holes on one end to hold them in place. You should be able to remove the slides with your fingers (maybe with a little help from a flat-head screwdriver), and replace them. There are dozens of YouTube videos on how to do this if you need help. Be careful not to break the plastic hooks that hold the slide to the front plastic bezel. Replace white slides with the white, and the dark green slides with dark green.
Step 6: Putting it all back together
Do everything in reverse. Set the front panel in the white screws, lift the drum, and slide the door panel back to rest on the slides while you put back the silver screws. Give the drum a few good spins manually to make sure there isn't anything still rubbing. Keep in mind the sliding noise is slightly louder than normal until all the panels are replaced.
It will help the process to only tighten the screws half way while putting them all back in. Once everything aligns, then you can tighten them down. DO NOT over tighten, use hand tightness only or you will strip them out. With the front door panel back on, you can put the steel panel back in place. Once you have the 6 screws done, remember to slide a small zip tie through the previous hole to secure the wiring harnesses. Connect the harnesses, and the front panel ribbon cable before putting the lid back on. Insert the screws to the lid, then slide the control panel back down, and replace the single long screw. Note that the control knob is notched, so align the flat sides as you put it back in.
Plug it back in, and turn back on the gas, you are done!
TIP: Before beginning, set out a hand towel on the washing machine to set the screws onto, in the order and position you removed them.
IMPORTANT: Before beginning, turn off the gas to the unit and unplug it! This repair is all done from the front side of the machine, so you should only need to slide it out enough to unplug it.
Step 1: Remove the control panel
To do this, you need to pull out on the round silver control knob to remove it. This will expose a long screw. With the long screw removed, grab the panel with both hands and slide it straight up. Be careful, the control board is still connected with a 40-pin ribbon cable. Set the control board on top of the dryer temporarily.
Step 2: Remove the lid
There are three screws to remove the lid. Remove them and set them on the screw holding towel. The lid is attached at the back, so to remove it you need to slide it forward towards the front of the unit. Once the lid is loose, you can have a helper hold the control panel while you set the lid aside, or gently let the control panel dangle.
Step 3: Disconnect the control panel and wiring harnesses
Gently pull on the 40-pin ribbon connector until the control panel ribbon cable is removed. There is a notch to designate which direction the ribbon cable it goes back in. Set the control panel to the side. At the same time, you can disconnect the two wiring harnesses that feed the door light and sensor. These wiring harnesses are secured to a silver plate with a zip tie. Cut the zip tie with your diagonal cutters. (You can trim the old zip tie and replace it by feeding the extra small zip tie through the original opening later.)
Step 4: Remove the steel plate that the wiring harnesses were attached to
There are 6 screws to remove the steel plate. Pay attention to where the extra large head screws go, because these are what the control panel slides onto, when you put things back together. Pull out on each side to release the bottom clips, then slide it upwards. Set this piece aside.
Step 4: Remove the front panel (the door panel)
There are 4 screws to loosen the door panel. Two silver screws at the top, and 2 white screws at the bottom. Loosen the white screws about half way. These do not need to be completely removed because the door can rest on them. Remove the top silver screws. Gently lift the dryer drum off the front bezel while you tilt the front panel towards you. At this point you should be able to see the white and dark green slides. I found it easier to lift the front door off the white screws and set it up against the wall.
Step 5: Replace the slides
The slides have plastic hooks that go through the round holes on one end to hold them in place. You should be able to remove the slides with your fingers (maybe with a little help from a flat-head screwdriver), and replace them. There are dozens of YouTube videos on how to do this if you need help. Be careful not to break the plastic hooks that hold the slide to the front plastic bezel. Replace white slides with the white, and the dark green slides with dark green.
Step 6: Putting it all back together
Do everything in reverse. Set the front panel in the white screws, lift the drum, and slide the door panel back to rest on the slides while you put back the silver screws. Give the drum a few good spins manually to make sure there isn't anything still rubbing. Keep in mind the sliding noise is slightly louder than normal until all the panels are replaced.
It will help the process to only tighten the screws half way while putting them all back in. Once everything aligns, then you can tighten them down. DO NOT over tighten, use hand tightness only or you will strip them out. With the front door panel back on, you can put the steel panel back in place. Once you have the 6 screws done, remember to slide a small zip tie through the previous hole to secure the wiring harnesses. Connect the harnesses, and the front panel ribbon cable before putting the lid back on. Insert the screws to the lid, then slide the control panel back down, and replace the single long screw. Note that the control knob is notched, so align the flat sides as you put it back in.
Plug it back in, and turn back on the gas, you are done!
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