GTDP220GF2WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Took the screws out of the back of the doorl located the switch and replaced it put screws back in and it was fixed

Took apart by removing the top and front panel. Found drum rubbing due to worn glides and felt.

Removed panel to access the interlock switches. There were two. The button on one switch was fine and the button on the other would not depress. Ran a continuity test and it failed. The switch also had a burnt smell

I watched how to do the repair on YouTube prior to ordering the parts. The video seemed simple enough so I ordered the parts and followed along with the YouTube video. My new push to start switch did not work properly, still had to rest a heavy object against it to get the dryer going and my timer knob worked for a full cycle and a half before it stopped working. It became loose and will not set on any specific time setting. Perhaps I diagnosed my problem incorrectly, not sure just know I am out of $96.06 and am grateful that I have a clothes line strung up outside to dry my clothes for now!

I first unplugged the unit, opened the top, disconnected and took off the control panel, took off the front panel to determine the source of the squeaking noise coming from the Dryer. I saw that 3 of the 4 Front Drum Glides were gone and the drum had worn away significant amounts of plastic from the Top Bearing Assembly. I purchased the Top Bearing Assembly and a set of 4 Front Drum Glides. Disassembled the damaged parts and reassembled with the new replacement parts. The reassembly took less than 20 minutes. I plugged in the Dryer and viola! It works as good as new.

remove top of cabinet and front panel. placed belt around drum and replaced idler pully placed new belt around pully and was done. not a hard job at all. replced front panel and top. thanks to a speedy delivery of my parts dryer was only down two days.

I first removed the the timer knob and the other ones from the front of the control panel. Then I removed the three screws that held the rear access to the control panel. Disconnected all wires to the timer keeping written info to which wires went to which terminal. The replacement timer was exactly like the original in the placement and designation of the terminals. I then twisted the bad timer out of the plastic holders, placed the new one and twisted it in place, and replaced the wires. I then replaced the screws in the rear of the panel and replaced the knobs. It did not take much longer than writing this. Very easy and I am completely satisfied.

This kept the interlock open and shut off the dryer when the door swung open The broken latch was popped out using a flat blade screwdriver and the replacement snapped into place by hand. Good as new!

Pulled the unit all apart to replace the rear drum bearing. Also replaced the front bearing. Works like brand new. Easier then I thought

I've experienced same symptoms on previous dryers over the last 30+ years, so I immediately ordered a rear drum bearing replacement kit from PartSelect. Perfect replacement parts for replacement of OEM parts.

1) After unplugging dryer, moved it to garage because of expected dust and lint deposits.
2) Removing two screws under from top lip allows top to lift and rotate off of dryer.
3) Removing two screws inside on both sides allows the front panel to be removed. Just remember to lift drum when you pull pannel off.
4) Best to take front panel off completely, so remove single screw on green ground wire at lower left and disconnect the white two wire connector (pull apart). Three wires need to come off of door switch (yellow/brown and white leading from the dryer inerds and one white to the drum light). Best to tag or remember where they connect. Otherwise, white from inerds goes to switch common, y/b goes to normally open and bulb white goes to normally closed terminals.
5) Get someone with really skinny arms to reach in to slide drum belt off of idler pulley. Otherwise, long sleeves are a necessity to keep from getting sliced to pieces on sheet metal edges.
6) Lift drum out and away from dryer frame. It's a pretty tight fit so get a helper to spread the side panels apart a bit.
7) Replace both bearing pin in drum and bearing socket in heater pan, following instructions that come with the parts or the video that is on the PartSelect website.

Didn't expect the drum slides and top drum slide support to be worn out, so I had to order them ASAP from PartSelect. The slides were totally gone and the support assemble was effectively toast. You might seriously consider replacing the slides and the lower felt when you try to fix the squeeks, since they are a major source of the noise and take an additional 2-3 minutes to replace.
8) Reassembly of the dryer is just doing the above steps in reverse. Best to clean out as much lint/dust as possible, since a clean dryer is an efficient dryer and we all want to make our "green" friends happy nowadays.

Originally I thought that the Start switch was the issue, and ordered one. After taking the machine apart and running some tests, the issue was clearly not this switch, but a different switch that cuts power when the belt tension is no longer being applied to the idler pulley spring. I fixed this by bypassing this switch, which in my opinion, is error prone and serves no purpose. The switch can be accessed by removing the control panel, then top cover, then front cover, then drum. The bogus switch is screwed to the bottom left, near the motor. The idler pulley spring rests against it. Just disconnect the switch wires, then clip, strip and crimp then together to bypass the switch, and voila! Now if the belt breaks or comes off the pulley, the motor will continue to run, but you wont hear the wet clothes flopping around, so that will be the indication that you have a belt problem. Hope that helps!

Just slipped it on. No problems, No Tools.

took back off dryer, removed one screw with Torx wrench securing timer, removed one wire at a time from old timer placing on new timer to ensure correct wiring, put timer back in place tightening the one screw to secure. Took less than 10 min. Works perfectly and I saved myself $200 repair bill from Sears, the total for buying my parts at this site about $80. Well worth doing it yourself.

pull top and front of dryer (6 screws), take belt off drum and pull drum out the front of dryer. Take the three star head screws out of stainless heat vent inside of drum and take old bearing housing out of back wall of dryer housing. Pretty much self evident putting everything back in, some trouble installing new bearing housing in back wall of dryer, screws are hard to turn in by hand (new hole). Vacum inside of dryer housing, install everything the way in came out, , plug it in and WA-LA.

Replace the front and rear bearings. When I have to do it again I will only order (3106), (313), 2x (316) green, 2x (316) white, and drive belt. Taking it apart and putting it back together was easy. Unplug the unit. Take out the 2 philips screws that hold on the top. Lift the top from the front to clear the locking tabs in the back and take it off. Take out the 2 5/16 screws that hold on the front. Tilt the front (door) forward and rest the drum on the dryer sides, you'll see it. Disconnect the wiring harness for the light and door switch, 2 wires. Lift the front off the bottom retaining clips and place aside. Have someone hold up the drum. Reach under and unhook the drive belt. Pull out the drum assembly. Take off the rear bearing, 3 screws. Clean out the heating element area in the back of the dryer while you have a chance. Replace the bearing assembly. I bought the entire bearing assembly but I could have gotten away with just the sleeve ( 3106), but I didn't know that at the time. Take off and replace the drive belt. Lock the tension arm for the drive belt into the compressed position shelf holder by the motor, push the arm down, you'll see it. Replace the drum and have someone hold it up while you rehook the drive belt and release the tension arm. Now, I would suggest replacing the entire front bearing. If the slides have been bad for a while, the plastic bearing (housing) is probably worn out and cracked. I had to order a front bearing assembly because the new slides wouldn't work with the worn out assembly, no big deal, it came quick. Unscrew the light bulb. Slowly pull the assembly away from the top of the front metal panel, slowly, and pay attention to where everything lines up. Replace the new front bearing and put the new slides on the little plastic tabs, be careful so you don't snap them off. Green on top, white on the sides. Replace the lightbulb. Set the front panel into place on the tabs at the bottom of the dryer. Rehook the door wires (2), and have someone hold up the drum while you slide the front bearing into the drum. Holding the front panel in place, turn the drum by hand and check for binding, things that don't sound or look right. Replace the 2 nuts to hold on the front. Plug it in, keep your hands back, turn it on, look, listen, everything fine. Open door, unplug, replace the top and the 2 screws that hold it on. Plug in, turn it on and check for any noise, you shouldn't hear any. If you do, you didn't do something right or maybe your drive pulleys are bad. A good dad and son job; especially getting on the ground and reaching under to deal with the drive belt. Watch out for sharp edges on the sheet metal and be slow and careful with the front plastic bearing so it doesn't snap. Your now good for 5 more years. A 2 on the difficulty scale, just take it slow and have an extra set of hands.