GHDP490GF4WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

good replacement procedure on you tube.

To get to the slides, needed to take off the front panel, the top and then can loosen the front of the dryer. Pull it out enough to get to the slides and replace them.

started with replacing the belt and tension pulley which I purchased from another source. I found your videos on line and they are great. easy to follow. Realized I needed the bottom vent assembly and your prices were better than my local supplier. It was easy to replace thanks to your video. It was nice that you included it in the final order status. The only problems. Did not know the duct felt seal was included with the new duct assembly. I ordered the wrong bearing slides, web site showed both green and white for my model. I now realize I should replace the upper bearing housing. Can I return the unused parts, unopened and have that put as a credit to my next order? Thanks

Snap out the broken part. Snap in the new part. Use caution with the wires, but don’t have to disconnect them.

First I replaced the timer, but dryer still did not start. took apart dryer, jumper out door and componet near motor to see what problem was and to be able to run dryer while opened up. Actually motor had seized up just enough to not allow motor to start rotating. Lubricated motor shaft and rotated motor for oil to work its way in. Tried starting again and motor started. Buttoned dryer back up and reconnected wires to appropriate places and started dryer again and again.Worked for 4 loads of laundry and still working for 3 loads on Wednesday. Working fine

TOOK OFF TOP AND FRONT PANEL REACHED IN UNDER TUBE AND REMOVED FROM BELT TENSIONER HARDEST PART IS PUTTING BACK ON TENSIONER TAKES TWO HANDS LAYING ON YOUR BELLY

Just slid right on.

Open the door and removed the part. Installed the new part and started the dryer.

if your unit has over 6,000 hours of operations, one needs to remove the front panel and inspect the sliders that the drum rides on. The video were very helpful to replace the sliders. Unfortunately, my dryer had over 10,000 hours of operations over a 30 years period, hence a major repair costing over $200.00 dollars. The drum sliders were gone, hence the drum eat through the plastic guides. More so, the drum started to eat away the front panel. If the dryer is eating your closes and making a noise, one is looking at a $200.00 repair job. Hence check the sliders early will save one $$$$.

Unplugged the old wire and connected new one at a time placed new timer back in position. Screwed cover back on and started drying clothes.

Replaced with new part. Moved wiring one lead at a time as per instructions

Follow the instructions from YOUTUBE to replace the new drive belt..

Replaced dryer motor which was a perfect fit thanks to your help. The process was helped by the internet videos available for the step by step procedure of taking the dryer apart and replacing the bad motor. I also was able to completely clean the inside of the dryer thoroughly, and reassemble it back together .

I followed the directions I found on my tablet on youtube.

After unplugging the dryer, I removed 2 metal screws up under the dryer sill rim, and removed the dryer top. Then, removed two more at the top of the front (door) section to remove it.

I wasn't careful enough when removing the door, and the wiring connectors popped loose from their connections. No harm done, though. Disconnect the wires once you remove the front panel.

I had to loosen the bottom metal screws on one side panel to have enough give to pull the dryer drum out.

The only way to replace the belt is to bend over the side of this unit and with one hand put the belt around the motor drive shaft, pull the tension pulley back, and put the belt on the wheel.

The hard part is working the drum back into place while VERY carefully slipping the belt into the drum goove. Many attempts were made only to have the belt slip off of the tension pulley or motor driveshaft. Be care full to turn the drum clock wise if the belt twists while working it into the drum groove. It was very disappointing to finally get the belt on, and work the drum back into place only to discover I had twisted the belt with the smooth side making contact on the driveshaft. Thus, I started over.

Aiming the drum into the back of the dryer is a tough task. I recommend a 1" X 4 " X 12" board to slip under the drum when beginning this process to help stablize, and guide the drum. It helped me tremendously, and was easy to remove out from under the drum once everything was back in place.

Use gloves. Yes, tough to work with in small places, and I did take them off to replace the belt around the tension pulley, however, there are too many sharp edges on the metal body of the dryer and especially the drum to do so without gloves.

Wires were easy to reattach and reassembly was smooth except for the top...check out the tabs, and spring tabs before you try and just plop the top back on. It goes a certain way...You'll know what i am talking about when you do this task.

I truly hope you have L O N G arms to do this task, and that the new belt lasts a long, long time!