GTX65EBSJ2WS General Electric Dryer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Kenneth from COATESVILLE, PA
- Parts Used:
- WE04X28977
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Dryer would not start
I popped the door switch out with a small screwdriver, disconnected the electrical connection and re-connected the new switch and popped the new switch in place with a little adjustment.
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- Customer:
- Robin from CANTON, OH
- Parts Used:
- WE03X23881
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The old filter had holes in it
No repair, just replace the old with the new. Fast delivery.
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- Customer:
- William from BREVARD, NC
- Parts Used:
- WE11X29438
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Heat deflecter coated with plastic from drying plastic table cloth.
Advice from others with same problem on your web site was very helpful. I removed one of the three torx screws holding the deflecter, Used 2.5 star-drive screw diver bit and cordless drill/driver. Replaced 2 of three torx screws holding the deflecter with the headless brass screws, Using vice grip to tighten. Removed third torx screw and removed old deflector. Used shop vac to clean behind it. Installed new deflector, sliding it over the 2 headless screws, then installing one of the torx screws, then replacing the brass screws with original torx screws, one at a time.
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- Customer:
- Rene from LAUD LAKES, FL
- Parts Used:
- WE01X25317
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Broken Door Hinge
Having 2 persons make the job easier.
1) Remove the screws that holds the hinge to the body of the unit.
2) Remove the screws around the door so you can get to the hinge.
3) Remove bad hinge and replace with new one.
1) Remove the screws that holds the hinge to the body of the unit.
2) Remove the screws around the door so you can get to the hinge.
3) Remove bad hinge and replace with new one.
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- Customer:
- Bruce from OKLAHOMA CITY, OK
- Parts Used:
- WE03X23881
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The lent filter was worn out, the screen was ripped and torn from west.
Very simple and easy it took no more than 10 seconds if that long. Remove the worn out screen (pull up and out), replace it with the new screen( slide it into the area where the old screen was removed. (No tools needed)
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- Customer:
- Elizabeth A from STEVENS POINT, WI
- Parts Used:
- WE03X23881
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Torn screen on lint filter
Just put new lint filter in slot
I had torn the screen on the original one
I had torn the screen on the original one
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- Customer:
- Mary Ann from SUN CITY WEST, AZ
- Parts Used:
- WE03X23881
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The Lint filter in the dryer was damaged from continuous use.
I just popped in the new Filter and it fit perfectly. This will prolong the dryer use, looks like new.
Thank you Part Select.
One Happy customer
Thank you Part Select.
One Happy customer
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- Customer:
- robert from phenix city, AL
- Parts Used:
- WE03X31620, WE03X29897
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
belt was broken.
remove top of cabinet and front panel. placed belt around drum and replaced idler pully placed new belt around pully and was done. not a hard job at all. replced front panel and top. thanks to a speedy delivery of my parts dryer was only down two days.
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- Customer:
- Scott from NOVATO, CA
- Parts Used:
- WE01X25160
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Needed a shoe rack
Lift the lint filter and slide the 2 hooked ends into the 2 holes provided . Front end is locked in as other end is suspended .
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- Customer:
- gerard from goldsboro, NC
- Parts Used:
- WE09X27634
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
the felt in front door worn out
i follow your video and all went well except now the dryer will not heat. i went back on your site an tried the no heat option an still no heat
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- Customer:
- Sydrell from CHICAGO, IL
- Parts Used:
- WE03X23881
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
the bracket around the net was cracked
removed old lint trap cleaned excess lint that fell inside from the broken lint trap made it easier for new lint trap to slide in.
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- Customer:
- Armando from WESTMINSTER, CO
- Parts Used:
- WE03X23956
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Dryer drum started making a grinding noise and started to smell like something was burning
Took the front panel off. 2 screws on top of the front panel when you open the door, 2 right next to the door opening. Next gently pry up the top panel in the front of the dryer to remove 2 black screws in the front corners. Now the front panel can gently be pulled back and then lift up and the frpnt panel can be put to side. Now you have acces to remove and replace the drum bearing glides. They just clip in. Also a good time to inspect the belt and clean out the dryer.
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- Customer:
- ruoli from Germantown, MD
- Parts Used:
- WE03X29897
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Dryer's drum doesn't run
Follow YouTube "how to change dryer's belt" some video is very clear.
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- Customer:
- Lewis from WESTFIELD, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WE03X31620, WE03X29897
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Noisey squeaking noise.
Replaced the rear drum bearing, Front drum bearing,front bearing tabs and belt. I replaced the belt from the front of dryer. Better to go thru the back. Much easier.
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- Customer:
- Darin from MEDINA, MN
- Parts Used:
- WE03X37320, WE03X37319
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Replace dryer front bearing slides
If your dryer is making a grinding or loud plastic rubbing noise, you likely need to replace the slides. Here is how I did it.
TIP: Before beginning, set out a hand towel on the washing machine to set the screws onto, in the order and position you removed them.
IMPORTANT: Before beginning, turn off the gas to the unit and unplug it! This repair is all done from the front side of the machine, so you should only need to slide it out enough to unplug it.
Step 1: Remove the control panel
To do this, you need to pull out on the round silver control knob to remove it. This will expose a long screw. With the long screw removed, grab the panel with both hands and slide it straight up. Be careful, the control board is still connected with a 40-pin ribbon cable. Set the control board on top of the dryer temporarily.
Step 2: Remove the lid
There are three screws to remove the lid. Remove them and set them on the screw holding towel. The lid is attached at the back, so to remove it you need to slide it forward towards the front of the unit. Once the lid is loose, you can have a helper hold the control panel while you set the lid aside, or gently let the control panel dangle.
Step 3: Disconnect the control panel and wiring harnesses
Gently pull on the 40-pin ribbon connector until the control panel ribbon cable is removed. There is a notch to designate which direction the ribbon cable it goes back in. Set the control panel to the side. At the same time, you can disconnect the two wiring harnesses that feed the door light and sensor. These wiring harnesses are secured to a silver plate with a zip tie. Cut the zip tie with your diagonal cutters. (You can trim the old zip tie and replace it by feeding the extra small zip tie through the original opening later.)
Step 4: Remove the steel plate that the wiring harnesses were attached to
There are 6 screws to remove the steel plate. Pay attention to where the extra large head screws go, because these are what the control panel slides onto, when you put things back together. Pull out on each side to release the bottom clips, then slide it upwards. Set this piece aside.
Step 4: Remove the front panel (the door panel)
There are 4 screws to loosen the door panel. Two silver screws at the top, and 2 white screws at the bottom. Loosen the white screws about half way. These do not need to be completely removed because the door can rest on them. Remove the top silver screws. Gently lift the dryer drum off the front bezel while you tilt the front panel towards you. At this point you should be able to see the white and dark green slides. I found it easier to lift the front door off the white screws and set it up against the wall.
Step 5: Replace the slides
The slides have plastic hooks that go through the round holes on one end to hold them in place. You should be able to remove the slides with your fingers (maybe with a little help from a flat-head screwdriver), and replace them. There are dozens of YouTube videos on how to do this if you need help. Be careful not to break the plastic hooks that hold the slide to the front plastic bezel. Replace white slides with the white, and the dark green slides with dark green.
Step 6: Putting it all back together
Do everything in reverse. Set the front panel in the white screws, lift the drum, and slide the door panel back to rest on the slides while you put back the silver screws. Give the drum a few good spins manually to make sure there isn't anything still rubbing. Keep in mind the sliding noise is slightly louder than normal until all the panels are replaced.
It will help the process to only tighten the screws half way while putting them all back in. Once everything aligns, then you can tighten them down. DO NOT over tighten, use hand tightness only or you will strip them out. With the front door panel back on, you can put the steel panel back in place. Once you have the 6 screws done, remember to slide a small zip tie through the previous hole to secure the wiring harnesses. Connect the harnesses, and the front panel ribbon cable before putting the lid back on. Insert the screws to the lid, then slide the control panel back down, and replace the single long screw. Note that the control knob is notched, so align the flat sides as you put it back in.
Plug it back in, and turn back on the gas, you are done!
TIP: Before beginning, set out a hand towel on the washing machine to set the screws onto, in the order and position you removed them.
IMPORTANT: Before beginning, turn off the gas to the unit and unplug it! This repair is all done from the front side of the machine, so you should only need to slide it out enough to unplug it.
Step 1: Remove the control panel
To do this, you need to pull out on the round silver control knob to remove it. This will expose a long screw. With the long screw removed, grab the panel with both hands and slide it straight up. Be careful, the control board is still connected with a 40-pin ribbon cable. Set the control board on top of the dryer temporarily.
Step 2: Remove the lid
There are three screws to remove the lid. Remove them and set them on the screw holding towel. The lid is attached at the back, so to remove it you need to slide it forward towards the front of the unit. Once the lid is loose, you can have a helper hold the control panel while you set the lid aside, or gently let the control panel dangle.
Step 3: Disconnect the control panel and wiring harnesses
Gently pull on the 40-pin ribbon connector until the control panel ribbon cable is removed. There is a notch to designate which direction the ribbon cable it goes back in. Set the control panel to the side. At the same time, you can disconnect the two wiring harnesses that feed the door light and sensor. These wiring harnesses are secured to a silver plate with a zip tie. Cut the zip tie with your diagonal cutters. (You can trim the old zip tie and replace it by feeding the extra small zip tie through the original opening later.)
Step 4: Remove the steel plate that the wiring harnesses were attached to
There are 6 screws to remove the steel plate. Pay attention to where the extra large head screws go, because these are what the control panel slides onto, when you put things back together. Pull out on each side to release the bottom clips, then slide it upwards. Set this piece aside.
Step 4: Remove the front panel (the door panel)
There are 4 screws to loosen the door panel. Two silver screws at the top, and 2 white screws at the bottom. Loosen the white screws about half way. These do not need to be completely removed because the door can rest on them. Remove the top silver screws. Gently lift the dryer drum off the front bezel while you tilt the front panel towards you. At this point you should be able to see the white and dark green slides. I found it easier to lift the front door off the white screws and set it up against the wall.
Step 5: Replace the slides
The slides have plastic hooks that go through the round holes on one end to hold them in place. You should be able to remove the slides with your fingers (maybe with a little help from a flat-head screwdriver), and replace them. There are dozens of YouTube videos on how to do this if you need help. Be careful not to break the plastic hooks that hold the slide to the front plastic bezel. Replace white slides with the white, and the dark green slides with dark green.
Step 6: Putting it all back together
Do everything in reverse. Set the front panel in the white screws, lift the drum, and slide the door panel back to rest on the slides while you put back the silver screws. Give the drum a few good spins manually to make sure there isn't anything still rubbing. Keep in mind the sliding noise is slightly louder than normal until all the panels are replaced.
It will help the process to only tighten the screws half way while putting them all back in. Once everything aligns, then you can tighten them down. DO NOT over tighten, use hand tightness only or you will strip them out. With the front door panel back on, you can put the steel panel back in place. Once you have the 6 screws done, remember to slide a small zip tie through the previous hole to secure the wiring harnesses. Connect the harnesses, and the front panel ribbon cable before putting the lid back on. Insert the screws to the lid, then slide the control panel back down, and replace the single long screw. Note that the control knob is notched, so align the flat sides as you put it back in.
Plug it back in, and turn back on the gas, you are done!
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