GFDN120ED2WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

replaced felt on inside door that drum rides on

Followed the directions from the video about that particular part. I am 57 and it was fairly simple to do.

Watched the video on YouTube and everything went great!

Followed the video which made it real easy.

The repair was performed in the laundry room which was large enough the handle all the parts when disassembled. I followed the video and it was perfect without any errors. The job was simple and even putting on the new belt without having the ability to see what I was doing. You'll understand when you view the video and perform the job. Just follow the instructions including using the newly supplied screw to tap the new holes.

Unplug the dryer. On the back, I unscrewed the top three screws that hold on the instrument panel and (from the back) slide the panel to my left to disconnect from the top. I opened the dryer door and removed the two screws on the inside top of the doorway to remove the top panel of the dryer. Inside the top of the dryer are two screws to remove so that I could swing the front panel of the dryer out to replace the lower front felt drum seal. I needed to use wd-40 on these screws. When the panel opens, there is no way to disconnect the wires to remove the panel, so I had to prop it up with something so it didn't tip over and damage the wiring; a sturdy chair worked. Then, I heared the drum pop off and drop down a little. I replaced the seal according to the video; by putting it in the groove and pressing it down into the tabs with a flat head screwdriver or something smooth with a little of the seal hanging over the groove at each end. While I was in there, I cleaned out the lint and the wd-40 I used earlier. Then I closed the panel, lifting the drum back into place, ensuring that the dryer drum would turn before and after I replaced the screws. I replaced the top panel and the screws inside the dryer door and slid the instrument panel back into place and replaced those screws. The dryer works great and very quietly now!

I followed the provided video precisely. Made the job quite easy. My only problem is I'm 6'2", 275 lbs. with bad knees. Can't go at it exactly as shown in the video because I can't squat down in front of the dryer without pain. Called in a neighbor of smaller stature for him to come from one side, and me from the other. Worked flawlessly. Video is excellent. I do recommend wearing gloves and/or long sleeve shirt. I cut up my arms a bit, but that could have been easily avoided.

I followed the the video from part select. The job is very easy but it is hard to work alone. I took the top off easily and remove the front cover. I removed the drum and the rear bearing, this was also very easy. Installing the new bearing was a bit difficult because of the depth of the drum. However I install a small bolt and nut to hold the bearing in place . I then put 2 screws in. I the remove the bolt and nut and install the third screw. I also install a new belt. Putting it back together was a breeze. Thank you part select I saved a lot of money. The dryer is 21 years old.

Removing the top and then the front of the dryer went fairly easily after finding the screws. The drum came out with just a little coaxing, does not gets screwed in place. To me the trickiest maneuver was getting my hand under the drum to place the belt over motor pulley and around the tensioner pulley. You must look up an image of the belt routing. It took me forever to figure that out. If not for that, this in a half hr fix. Ps don't forget to unplug the dryer.

It took a while to diagnose the problem. I finally figured out it was the door switch by pushing it with my finger with the dryer door open and starting the dryer. It would run like that, but the switch was not being pressed in enough by the door. I ordered the switch and I should have been able to replace in about 15 min. But the old switch broke while I was removing it and it fell back inside the unit. So I had to remove the top and the front panel to access the door switch. That's why it took so long. If that had not happened it would have been a much simpler repair.

Had to tap three holes in the rear bearing to match the three attachment screws. Screw up with the part.

I used these two videos to help me clean the inside of the machine, then change the drive belt.

the replacement part was easy to replace but remembering how the belt went back on took alittle more time..

Faulty Door switch. Dryer would heat up so I knew it wasn't thermostat or element related.

I yanked on the piece of twisted felt and pulled it from between the drum and the frame. Model number and serial number were gotten from the placard inside the door frame. A schematic was found on line and the part ordered from that picture. The whole thing is held together by four Phillips head screws. Two are upside down in the top of the door frame on either side. A hand held impact driver with a #2 Phillips bit was necessary to dislodge those two screws. The remainder of the job was done with just a #2 Phillips screwdriver. After the two upside down screws are out the top just lifts off. It's held at the back only by location slots. The two remaining screws are under the top on the extreme left and right of the front and face downward. These hold the front door panel onto the frame. Be careful when removing the front panel with the door on it as there are wires near the bottom left corner that must not be ripped out of the door panel. What remained of the old gasket was removed from the grooves in the plastic inner panel upon which the front of the drum rides. The new gasket was put in place in that groove. Reassembly is just the reverse of disassembly. There's no reason to tighten down the two screws holding the top on with the impact driver when putting it back together.