GFDS170EH1WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Dryer would turn on when you pushed the "on" button, but as soon as you let go, it would turn off. Found the plastic door switch cracked (from slamming door closed). Unplugged the dryer. Unscrewed the two screws inside the top of the door to unfasten the top panel. Took the top panel off. Then unscrewed the two screws on the side to unlatch the front panel. Used plyers to take the 3 wires off the switch and slid the switch through the front of the door. Juat remember where the wires go. Then inserted new switch and connected the wires. Vacuumed out the dryer and reassembled. It took about 20 minutes and was easy! If I can do it, you can!!!

The repair was easy. First I took out 2 screws. Then I lifted off the top. Next I unscrewed 2 to take off front. I leaned off the front and reached in got out old gasket. Replacing new gasket went right around top front panel under the clips. Putting front on and returning 2 screws. Then Same for top. Dryer runs and sounds like new. Thank You for your quick mail and easy help?

Faulty Door switch. Dryer would heat up so I knew it wasn't thermostat or element related.

I yanked on the piece of twisted felt and pulled it from between the drum and the frame. Model number and serial number were gotten from the placard inside the door frame. A schematic was found on line and the part ordered from that picture. The whole thing is held together by four Phillips head screws. Two are upside down in the top of the door frame on either side. A hand held impact driver with a #2 Phillips bit was necessary to dislodge those two screws. The remainder of the job was done with just a #2 Phillips screwdriver. After the two upside down screws are out the top just lifts off. It's held at the back only by location slots. The two remaining screws are under the top on the extreme left and right of the front and face downward. These hold the front door panel onto the frame. Be careful when removing the front panel with the door on it as there are wires near the bottom left corner that must not be ripped out of the door panel. What remained of the old gasket was removed from the grooves in the plastic inner panel upon which the front of the drum rides. The new gasket was put in place in that groove. Reassembly is just the reverse of disassembly. There's no reason to tighten down the two screws holding the top on with the impact driver when putting it back together.

very easy

Watched the video associated with the repair and followed the instructions, it was easier that I thought it was going to be.

Followed the detailed instructions provided when I bought the parts at the online website. Very good directions diagrams/pictures and explanation of repair effort required

There is a plastic female closure part in the dryer door that wouldn't close tightly around the metal male closure on the dryer. I popped out the plastic square with a screwdriver, popped the new plastic closure in with my thumb. Works great. I never even installed the new metal portion of the latch.

Your site offered a video tutorial that removed any anxiety about doing the repair correctly. Removed front of dryer, disconnected wire assembly going to the front, replaced seal in seconds, returned dryer to original set up. simple. luckily. very easy to use website.

Unplug dryer, unscrew bulb then replace with a new bulb. Plug dryer back in.

inserted the latch into the opening in the front face of the dryer

Replaced bulb.

watched video and followed instructions. Made my wife very happy not having to buy a new dryer. Thank You, Joe

I watched the installtion video and actually did it faster than the video and yes you do have to be careful of sharp edges I did cut one finger. Other than that no problem I was all back together and using the dryer in less than 15 minutes

Simply popped the old broken part out and popped the new part into place. I wasn't sure if it was the Latch Door or the Door Strike. Once the parts arrived, it was clear the Door Strike was not the issue.