EGD4500D0WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Dryer is 3 yeras old. This dryer switch / start knob broke three times. First two GE repair fixed it. Charge was about $75 to $100. Then I found Parts Select, Who what great prices. Switch cost under $10. and took me 10 minutes to install. Dryer works great again. OH, I ordered an extra switch to have on hand.

i follow your video and all went well except now the dryer will not heat. i went back on your site an tried the no heat option an still no heat

Pulled off old knob and snapped new one into place. Took about 5 seconds. Must be a lame design cause my dryer's less than 2 years old and the knob snapped on the inside and wouldn't turn. Easy to fix though.

Removed that to screws for that top first and door shake top little to that front and I took two screws on that top each side and removed that front and lint trap and install the new

I am a 55 year old woman who likes to repair household items. I followed You Tube instructions and did it all by myself. A few screws to get the top off and a two more to remove the front piece. Trap duct assembly was cracked and falling apart. Pulling off the old was fairly easy. I watched the You Tube instructions on my Ipad so I could rewind and watch as I did it. The hardest part was I dropped one of the screws when placing the front of the dryer back on and had to find another one that was the same size. Luckily I have lots of old screws in my tool box, If you like to do small simple repairs to save some money this is an easy one.

Just took out of plastic wrapping and put on dryer. No tools needed.

-- Unplug dryer from electrical outlet
-- Open Door
-- Remove two screws going up into the top panel
-- Remove top panel
-- Close door
-- Remove two screws holding front panel
-- Remove Front Panel by turning out, keeping left side close to unit since wires are still connected.
-- Vacuum out all loose dust/lint
-- Tilt old Drum bearing toward you to remove.
-- Remove Old Felt Drum Seal
-- Install drum Slides on new Drum Bearing
-- Install new Drum Bearing, make sure it clicks into place securely.
-- Install new Felt Seal, make sure to push in far enough to securely hook to the clips on the bottom of the Drum Bearing.
-- Reinstall front and top panels
-- Plug in electrical
-- Dry

UNPLUG the dryer. I removed the top panel by removing the two screws at the top of the dryer door. There are some hooks toward the back of the top panel, so you'll need to slide it to the left to get it off. The front panel needs to be removed by removing two screws just inside the top left and right corners. Lift and set it aside. I didn't disconnect the door wiring, but you can if you need to do so. I just spun the front panel to the left and out of the way. With the drum exposed, I confirmed the belt was broken. I replaced the belt, then the front panel and top panel. While I was inside the dryer, I did a through cleaning with the vacuum to get all the lint.

The video on the site is easy to understand and a snap to follow.

Replaced High limit thermostat per video on the website. However, the flange of new thermostat is flat, while chassis it mounts on is round to conform to drum of dryer. So new thermostat was not flush with chassis. Dryer did not shut off early (that problem solved), but instead continued to dry clothes beyond time necessary. Note that old thermostat had one side of flange slightly bent and probably more flush with chassis, and better able to sense when hot temperatures were reached. I dismantled dryer again, slightly bent new flange, re-installed. Seems to work better now .

stuck it back in the holes just like the original handle. Had to do a little adjustment because I put screwdriver in them too many times to open the door after the original handle feel off, so the fit was loose. Fixed with tape.

I replaced the drum bearing slides and also the main front drum bearing. First, disconnect the electric. Then I removed the two screws inside the door that attach the top cover, removed the top cover, removed two screws that attach the front cover, lift up the front cover and pivot it to the left leaving the wiring attached, removed the front bearing assembly by pulling it out at the top and then up, installed the new front bearing ring and snap it into place, installed the drum bearing slides, reinstalled the front cover, reinstalled the top cover, and tested the drum by turning it by hand first and then under power. The whole operation took less than 15 minutes....

Line up knob. Push on.

I read the other repair instructions on this site and looked at the parts diagrams. It wasn't entirely clear how everything came apart but once I started by unscrewing the top of the dryer and removing it (screws were just inside the dryer door) it was easy. Unscrewed the front panel next , swung it out, and it was quick work to install the new bearing with the slides. It wasn't too clear in the parts diagrams but I did need two each of the dryer drum slides and front dryer drum slides, four total, two on each side of the drum bearing. The dryer had been running on the old drum bearing itself, the old slides had worn completely down and the bearing itself was starting to disintegrate too. If I'd caught it sooner I could have reused the bearing and just replaced the slides. Saved a lot of $ and the dryer is nice and quiet again!

Follow YouTube "how to change dryer's belt" some video is very clear.

Replaced the rear drum bearing, Front drum bearing,front bearing tabs and belt. I replaced the belt from the front of dryer. Better to go thru the back. Much easier.